AMERICAN GRILL, 1913 Waukegan Rd., Glenview, 998-6070. American. An example of the new wave of California-style restaurants, American Grill features mesquite grilling, cilantro, barely cooked baby veggies and undercooked almost everything else. The knowledge of the service staff is laughable, but the talent in the kitchen is not. With maturity, this place should become one of the shining stars of the northern suburbs. Recommended:
Duck and mushroom ravioli, lamb and eggplant pizza, mussels, salmon and scallops in cream cilantro sauce, tuna grilled with tomato basil vinaigrette. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. daily; dinner, 5:30-10 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., 5:30-10:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; brunch, 11:30 a.m. 3 p.m. Sun. Price range:
Expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. (PAC)
THE ASSEMBLY, 2570 Hassell Rd., Hoffman Estates, 843-3993. This four-year-old restaurant boasts a lot of popular features, including award- winning ribs (first place in a local competition), substantial portions, extended service hours (with a limited menu) and what many consider the area`s best hamburger. But what really sets this place apart are the specials, a daily half-dozen that typically include sole mousse, sea perch in dill sauce and bluefish Provencal, all priced from $7-$10. Recommended: Bionic Burger (a 10- ounce bacon cheeseburger), leg of veal in peppercorn, sockeye salmon, barbecued ribs. Hours: 11:15 a.m.-2 a.m. Mon.-Fri., noon-2 a.m. Sat., noon-midnight Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations:
Accepted for five or more. (PJV)
THE BACK DOOR, 30W150 W. Roosevelt Rd., West Chicago, 231-1000. Elegant, imaginative dishes are on the dependable menu, but what makes this restaurant special is the homey charm evident in its decor and service. The 11-year-old establishment is rustic, but classy. Recommended: Deviled crab appetizer, Long Island duck, Dover sole, mousse desserts, pineapple upside-down cake. Hours:
11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11:30 am.-midnight Fri., 5 p.m.-midnight Sat., noon-9 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Accepted, except after 6:30 p.m. Sat. (PJV)
BARN OF BARRINGTON, 1415 S. Barrington Rd., Barrington, 381-8585. Rustic decor and elegant table appointments combine to create a refined, memorable dining experience. Recommended: Scallops St. Jacques, escargot, prime rib, chicken pinot noir. Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Tues.-Thurs., 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 4-10 p.m Sun.; brunch, 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Sun. Price range: Expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations:
Recommended. (ST)
BARNEY`S MARKET CLUB, 741 W. Randolph St., 372-6466. American. This old landmark in the Randolph Street market district is unabashedly Chicago and has reemerged under new ownership into a fine spot for straightforward steak and potatoes dining. The shoestring potatoes and cottage fries are outstanding. The salad bar is huge and fresh. Recommended: New York sirloin, oyster stew, shrimp cocktail, onion rings, New York-style cheesecake. Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon-Fri.; 5-11 p.m. Sat.; 5-10 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards:A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted (PT)
BENCHERS GRILLE, Sears Tower, 233 S. Wacker Dr., 993-0096. American. Finally–a good place to eat in the Sears Tower. Less expensive than the adjoining club room, the lively, circular bar and food counter charges $5-$6 for a juicy, half-pound hamburger but delivers it with french fries from real, hand-cut potatoes, great pickles and a slaw that might even be healthy. Skip the three-way chili. Recommended: Spicy chicken wings, hamburgers, tollhouse sundae, malts and shakes. Price range: Moderate. Hours: 6:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.- Fri.; 8:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Sat.-Sun. Credit cards: A, D, M, V. Reservations: None. (PT)
BLENDS, 733 Lake St., Oak Park, 386-3440. A stylish eatery offering an affordable eclectic mix of simple food. Recommended: Frito misto and chicken skins appetizers, stuffed hamburgers, chicken Marsala, linguini, London broil, creamed cake and peaches. After May 25, alcoholic beverages will be available. Hours: 6 a.m.-11 p.m. daily. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. (Staff)
BOWMANVILLE CAFE, 5159 N. Lincoln Ave., 561-2233. American. The eclectic menu–specials like mahi-mahi, rissoto, Haagen Daz fantasies–looks as if it should belong to trendier neighborhoods. But squint-bright lights and counter stools make this place feel at home on the corner of Foster and Lincoln Avenues. Recommended: Fresh fish, salads, pasta, chicken, brisket, apple dumpling, rice pudding, ice cream pie. Hours: open 24 hours daily. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Accepted for six or more. (MS)
BUTCHER, BAKER, HAMBURGER MAKER, 3305 Vollmer Rd., Flossmoor, 798-0500. Want it your way? Make it yourself. Grilled or char-broiled burgers are offered in three sizes, and diners embellish them at a large, well-displayed condiment bar. Steaks, barbecued and teriyaki chicken and sandwiches round out the menu. Recommended: Hamburgers (of course), barbecued sirloin sandwich, salad bar. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 4-10 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A,D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted for six or more. (Staff)
ED DEBEVIC`S SHORT ORDERS/DELUXE, 640 N. Wells St., 664-1707. American. Rich Melman`s latest venture, perhaps the ultimate greasy-spoon diner, is the hottest thing to hit the Chicago restaurant scene in years. Spike-haired, leather-jacketed, mini-skirted punks mingle with dowagers dripping displays of wealth in search of a blast from the past of their spent youth. Once inside, they all look and at like extras from a 1950s movie. By the way, there is food here, too. Recommended: Burgers, hand-cut fries, chili and chili dogs, meat loaf with mashed potatoes, malts. Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight Mon.-Thurs., to 1 a.m. Fri.-Sat., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards:
None. Reservations: Not accepted. (PAC)
ELLIOT`S PINE LOG, 7545 Skokie Blvd., Skokie, 673-3231. Rustic and old-fashioned (the sole appetizer is shrimp cocktail), this restaurant exudes a relaxing, woodsy ambiance. Recommended: Steaks, Boston scrod, clam chowder, pastries (from Lutz Bakery). Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.Tues.-Fri., to 10:30 p.m. Sat. and noon-8 p.m. Sun; closed Mon. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. (Staff)
THE FLAME, 1S130 Summit Ave., Oakbrook Terrace, 833-1310. American. Sleek decor, top-notch service and creative daily specials upgrade this steak house. Recommended: Ceviche of bay scallops, escargots, grilled bluefish, peppercorn steak. Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight Mon.-Sat.; closed Sun. Live music after 9 p.m. daily. Credit Cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. (PT)
FOUNTAIN BLUE, 2300 S. Mannheim Rd., Des Plaines, 298-3636. There`s a slightly kitschy opulence about the main dining area, but the dining itself is well above average. Recommended: Fresh oysters, filet mignon. Hours: 11 a.m.-11:45 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., to 12:30 a.m. Fri., 5 p.m.-12:45 a.m. Sat., noon to 11:45 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. (Staff)
GENE & GEORGETTI, 500 N. Franklin St., 527-3718. Steak. Gene ` Georgetti is one of the few remaining examples of a dying breed, the macho bar/
restaurant. And taken as such, this period-piece restaurant can be fun. Recommended: House dinner salad, T-bone steak. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-midnight Mon.-Thurs.; 11:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m. Fri., Sat.; closed on Sun. Price range:
Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D. Reservations: Accepted for parties of four or more. PAC)
GORDON, 500 N. Clark St., 467-9780. Although the location is new and the room far larger than the old Gordon, the original eclectic spirit remains and the nouvelle creations just keep getting better. Recommended dishes: grilled sweetbreads with prosciutto, spinach with goat cheese, mixed green salad, chicken breast stuffed with mousse of spinach and veal, prawns and seafood sausage, cold lemon souffle with hot carmel sauce, walnut/white chocolate tart. Hours: Lunch-11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri., Dinner-5:30-10 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., 5:30-11 p.m. Fri. and Sat. Breakfast-10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sun. Price range: expensive. Credit Cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: necessary. (PAC) GRANDMA SALLY`S, 450 E. Ogden Ave., Naperville, 355-7771. Don`t come to Grandma Sally`s for a romantic tete-a-tete or a gourmet experience. Ambiance is secondary to the menu, which is as large and accommodating as the parking lot. Families pack the majority of the booths. Recommended: Pancakes, waffles, egg dishes, salads, sandwiches, broasted chicken, broiled fish. Hours: 5:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun.-Thurs. and to 11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Accepted Friday and Saturday only. (MS)
INGLENOOK PANTRY, 112 E. Main St., St. Charles, 377-0373. Specializing in traditional foods of the early Pennsylvania Dutch (which is to say wholesome, hearty fare) the buffet-style restaurant prides itself on giving value for your money. Recommended: Inglenook special chowder, deli sandwich buffet, meatloaf. Hours: lunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Mon.-Sat., dinner 5:30-8 p.m. Thurs., to 8:30 p.m.Fri., 6-9 p.m. Sat., brunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Sun. Price range:
Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. (Staff)
JACK GIBBONS GARDENS, 14700 S. Oak Park Ave., Tinley Park, 687-2331. Steak. Gourmet cooking this ain`t, but the meat is darned good, the side dishes adequate and the fun quotient high when manager Mrs. Carney`s in the mood at this 60-year-old south suburban place. It`s good food at a good price. Recommended: steaks, orange roughy, brandy ice. Hours: 5 p.m. to ”depends on how many people are still sitting there” Mon.-Fri., 4 p.m. to ”who knows”
Sat., 1 to 10 p.m. ”or so” Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: Not accepted. Reservations: Mon.-Fri. only. Other: valet parking. (PAC )
JAMES TAVERN, 1000 31st St., Downers Grove, 960-5700. A warm and inviting atmosphere with numerous specials and service extras, especially geared to the business (45-minute) lunch and after-5 crowds. There`s nothing particularly elaborate or fancy about the dishes, but ingredients are first-rate and preparation is reliably good. Recommended: Peanut chowder, artichoke fritters, baked sole, veal devonshire, flounder amandine, prime rib, London broil, Hours: lunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mon.-Fri., dinner 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 4:30-8:30 p.m. Sun., brunch 10:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Suggested.
(PJV)
LAWRY`S THE PRIME RIB, 100 E. Ontario St., 787-5000. American. Chicago`s most single-minded menu–the only dinner entree is prime rib–turns out to be one of the city`s best. Salad, bread and potato complement rich slabs of red meat carved at tableside. At lunch the kitchen shows off its skills with other fare including elaborate salads, good roast beef hash, and daily specials. Recommended: Lawry cut prime rib, creamed spinach, English trifle. Hours:
Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri. Dinner: 5-11 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 5 p.m.-Midnight Fri.-Sat. 3-10 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. (MK)
THE MILK PAIL, Fin `n Feather Farm, Ill. Hwy. 25 north of Int. Hwy. 90, Dundee, 742-5040. The Fin `n Feather Farm, a 2,000-acre game preserve along the Fox River, is home to this all-American restaurant, whose menu, decor and portions evoke a time gone by. Recommended: Poultry (all raised on the premises), especially breast of pheasant and oven-fried chicken, pan-cooked rainbow trout, hay baler steak. Hours: 11 a.m.-8:45 p.m. Tues.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-9:15 p.m. Fri., 9 a.m.-9:15 p.m Sat., 9 a.m.-8 p.m. Sun; closed Mon. Price range: Moderate. Credit Cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. (Staff) MORGAN`S CROSSING, 48 W. Chicago Ave., Naperville, 420-1836. Decor evocative of the 1830s (historically significant to the area) combines with a rather modern approach to simply prepared, very fresh regional fare. Recommended: Tournedos, carrot fritters, squab, swordfish. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Tues.-Sat., dinner 5:30-9 p.m. Tues.-Th., to 10 p.m. Sat., 4-9 p.m. Sun.; closed Mon. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. (PJV)
