Anyone who gets as far off-trail as Shetland may want to go even farther: to Fair Isle, which is about as close to being a desert island as one can find these days. For getting away from it all, this is the place.
Situated 25 miles off the southern tip of Shetland, Fair Isle is 3 miles long and a mile wide. The population of 70, including children, is made up mainly of farmers, called crofters. But there is a shop, a taxi service and a nurse.
The little island, rimmed with high cliffs, serves primarily as a bird sanctuary (which is owned by the National Trust of Scotland). It`s a bird watcher`s paradise and a minor holiday haven for those choosing some quiet time.
Accommodations are available in the hostel of the Bird Observatory for $50 a day for two, all meals included, or $255 a week on the same basis. Contact naturalist Nick Riddiford (035-12-258) from Shetland to find out if there is room.
Loganair flies a small plane from the airport in Lerwick on Mondays, along with occasional charter flights, and will take extra passengers on charters if there is space. Cost is $55 round trip. There`s also mail boat service, and it`s free, but those who have taken the trip in rough seas advise against it. Flying is better.
What to do on Fair Isle? Watch the birds, of course. Riddiford mounts expeditions by Land Rover to check on hoopoes, gannets, black guillemots and puffins.
One can also track down the last authentic Fair Isle sweaters, handmade from stem to stern. On Mondays women display whatever knitwear may be for sale. Otherwise, knock on anyone`s door. A friendly islander will invite you in for coffee and cake and point you in the right direction for your quest.
Overnight arrangements can be made from March to October; part of the package is that a visitor makes up his own room and helps with the dishes.
DRESS WARM AND PREPARE FOR RAIN
Since the weather of Shetland can be notoriously changeable, its best to bring along adequate rain gear, stout shoes and warm clothing, even in summer. Winters are relatively mild, thanks to the Gulf Stream. May and September are said to be the finest months, although this year the last week of June was bright and cool, with nary a drop of rain.
For more information on Shetland, contact the British Tourist Authority, or write to Highlands and Islands Development Board, Bridge House, 27 Bank St., Inverness IV1 1QR, Scotland.
