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Marcello Mastroianni may be Italian, but you won`t catch him in a designer suit. ”I hate fashion,” said the movie heartthrob during a one-day Chicago stopover last week to promote his latest film, ”Macaroni.”

”Fashion and designer labels. . . .” Mastroianni dismissed them with a backhand wave.

”It`s so stupid for people to pay all these high prices just to have the designer`s name in a coat.” He brushed the sleeve of his pinstriped suit and broke into rapid-fire Italian. ”It`s all just for publicity.”

In ”Macaroni,” Mastroianni plays a warm-hearted Neapolitan against Jack Lemmon`s embittered American business executive. ”It`s a story of discovering friendship,” said Mastroianni, who sat in his Ritz-Carlton suite with director Ettore Scola.

In 1971, Mastroianni and Scola filmed a movie in Chicago, but they have no plans for another here: ”I don`t believe in tourist directors,” Scola said.