There was a time when layering meant piling on clothes for warmth. And lace was synonymous with bridal gowns or frilly blouses for dress-up. And metallics referred to gold or silver leather shoes, bags or belts or fancy lame gowns or Lurex sweaters.
Now, layering and lace and metallics and all sorts of other trends that are happening in clothing are spilling over into swimsuits.
Take the tutti-frutti syndrome, for example. Lots and lots of sporty clothes–such as sweaters and shorts and sundresses–that will be around later this spring and summer appear in prints inspired by the tropics. Lush green leaves, vivid jungle florals, fruits like bananas and pineapples. These prints also are among the newest showing up in swimwear geared for now on through the hot-weather months.
Even some of the construction techniques associated with other areas of clothing are being adapted for swimsuits. For the first time in decades, swimsuits are borrowing from the lingerie department items such as underwires for bra cups, along with boning and bra hooks. Suits with such devices are more structured, and can be sexier as well.
The most important things happening in swimsuits:
— Color: Bold and bright, or black. Lots of primaries and rich tones are often mixed with jet, while strong shades of turquoise, apricot and pink tend to be teamed with white. More combinations of two strong colors (orange and hot pink, green and purple).
— Patterns: Florals still abound but newer are the graphics: fat and skinny stripes, circles and other geometrics; brush strokes; Memphis furniture squiggles, lines and colors.
— Texture: Lace by itself, or lace inserts that contrast with a smooth fabric, promise to become even more important as spring goes into summer; also new is puckered nylon spandex that has lots of stretch, and velvet (leave it to Norma Kamali).
— Shimmer: Suits splattered or threaded with silver or gold metallic are important now, along with metallic cover-ups.
— Silhouette shifts: Strapless is big, and, conversely, so are tops that resemble sportswear (tanks, cropped tops, high square necklines).
While the high-on-the-thigh cut is still important, most manufacturers say their designers have re-proportioned the cut of the leg so it allows for more coverage of the seat. Many women rebelled against suits that exposed half of their backsides, so the newest suits are cut high enough to give that long and leggy look in front–but, as one swimwear sales rep put it, ”they`re more tastefully done this year.”
— Details: Side ties, draping and gathers (which give the illusion of slimming the body); hip sashes, side lacing and side cutouts (circles or ladders); buttons (strictly decorative); rolled belts or sashes.
— Layering: One-piecers still lead bikinis (different manufacturers say sales ratios can be anywhere from 80-20 to 50-50), but now along come some three-piecers as well as some new types of two-piecers.
Liza Bruce is a leader in the layering phenomenon, showing two one-shoulder suits that are worn at the same time, along with a cropped top over the two suits, and a solid-colored cutout suit that`s worn over a striped strapless suit. Other designers show full-length suits worn over a bikini bottom; mini-skirts or sarongs worn over bikinis–not as a cover-up but as part of the suit; a knit tube skirt worn over another suit.
— Looking back: True, there`s a certain amount of rear-view interest
(very deep V`s, square cuts, cutouts), but another kind of looking back comes by way of some `40s, `50s, `60s ideas. Boxer shorts, brassiere-cut tops, sweetheart necklines, shirring (the same type that was de rigueur in the `50s and reappeared in current dresses designed or inspired by Ungaro, Oscar de la Renta and Bill Blass). —
STRONG SUITS
Layers, lush prints and lustrous metallics are among the clothing trends that are making their marks on swimwear this year.
Both one- and two-piece suits are being topped off with contrasting tanks, shimmering cover-ups and wrap-around sarongs, to add a fresh touch to a simple bikini or maillot.
And in terms of color, the key words are bold and black. Whether in rich floral patterns or clean geometrics, these bathing suits make their statement, loud and clear.
