Finally, a microwave cookbook destined to elevate microwave cooking beyond reheating and defrosting.
”Mastering Microwave Cookery,” by Marcia Cone and Thelma Snyder (Simon and Schuster, $19.95), is packed with basic microwave cooking information, timetables, charts and simple, innovative recipes.
Still, the authors are honest and straight-forward about the limitations of a microwave oven. They know that with learning, mistakes will occur. They recognize that a microwave oven is not for all foods.
”We came to microwave cooking through the love of good food, not the attraction of a high-tech appliance,” the authors say. ”Because of this, we have had to stumble through the rubbery chickens and reheated Styrofoam rolls to achieve the results we wanted. We came out on the other side, sometimes red-faced but wiser, and we can pride ourselves on recipes that don`t sacrifice flavor to satisfy time. If it`s not good or better in the microwave, you won`t find it here (in the book).”
The authors demystify some common beliefs about microwave cooking. For example, microwaves do not cook from the inside out. (They believe that this notion came about from ”the first ovens, which were designed with a wavelength that cycled less often . . . and was longer in length, . . having a much deep penetration into the food.”
They also deal with common misbeliefs, explaining instead that metal can be used in the oven if used properly, and microwaves are not present in cooked food and therefore will not microwave the tongue.
Microwave cooking is explained in easy-to-understand terms. Cone and Snyder believe that what we know about sunlight will help us understand the microwave: Sunlight warms us through glass on a winter day; it converts heat on our skin, causing us to tan, and it heats our skin before it does the inside.
Similarly, microwaves in the oven penetrate glass to cook food; on long-cooking items the exterior of the food will become brown, and the edges of a roast or casserole will cook before the center.
The ”rules of thumb” chapter includes charts for reheating, cooking timetables, proper utensils to use and tips for recipe conversion. This information is extremely useful. However, the authors` ”Macungie rule” of reheating seems a bit too cute.
”The Macungie (pronounced Ma-kun-jee) rule,” they say, ”is a measure of time that your hand can be held on the bottom or top of a hot covered plate or casserole. This time is counted out in `1 Macungie, 2 Macungie` and so on, and each is basically the measure of a second.” (The authors, driving through Macungie, Penn., took to the name as a good length of measure.)
This thick, attractive book has more than 800 recipes that are reminiscent of Irma Rombauer and Marion Rombauer Becker`s classic ”Joy of Cooking” (Bobbs-Merrill, $16.95). Beautiful photographs by New York food photographer Michael Geiger show that microwave cooking can be appetizing and is suited for entertaining.
The most refreshing aspect of ”Mastering Microwave Cookery” is its broad expanse of recipes. Many dishes that others have not thought of doing in a microwave oven are done here and done well. For instance, roast goose with prune sauce, pesto-coated ricotta cheese timbales, English plum pudding and cheese souffle.
All the recipes have thorough instructions, and in many cases additional tips and variations are given. A unique key system differentiates between easy, ”confidence building recipes” and more difficult ”teaching” recipes. These recipes from ”Mastering Microwave Cookery” were tested in The Tribune test`s kitchen. All were enjoyed by tasters. The beef pot roast changed one taster`s opinion that beef and a microwave oven should never be mixed.
Cone and Snyder suggest that a veal roast can be substituted for beef in this recipe. ”The roast has a light gravy thickened primarily with vegetables,” they say.
BEEF POT ROAST
Six to eight servings
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Microwave cooking time:
1 hour 12 minutes
1 beef rump or chuck roast, about 3 pounds
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 celery rib, finely chopped
1 medium carrot, peeled, finely chopped
1 tablespoon flour
1 sprig fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried
1 cup beef broth
1. Rub the roast with salt and pepper.
2. In a 3-quart caserole with a lid combine the butter, onion, celery and carrot. Cover tightly and microwave on high for 2 minutes. Sprinkle the vegetables evenly with the flour and stir to blend. Stir in the thyme and broth.
3. Add the meat. Cover tightly and microwave on high for 15 minutes. Microwave on medium (50 percent power) for 45 to 55 minutes, or until the meat is tender, turning the meat over halfway through the total cooking time. Transfer the meat to a serving platter. Cover with foil and let stand for 10 minutes.
4. Force the cooking liquid and vegetables through a sieve, or add to a food processor in 2 batches to puree; this will help to thicken the gravy. Return the strained juices and vegetables to caserole. Microwave, uncovered, on high, for 4 to 6 minutes, or until boiling, stirring once.
5. Slice the roast and spoon the gravy over the slices.
Variations:
Beef pot roast with red wine: Substitute 1/2 cup red wine for 1/2 the beef broth.
Beef pot roast with tomatoes: Substitute 1 cup fresh or undrained canned tomatoes, peeled and chopped, with 1/2 teaspoon salt for the beef broth. Substitute 2 tablespoons tomato paste for the flour. Substitute 1 tablespoon fresh or 1/2 teaspoon dried basil for the thyme.
Veal pot roast: Substitute a rolled veal roast for the beef. Substitute chicken broth for the beef broth.
”A traditional pound cake was once made with a pound of sugar, a pound of butter and a pound of flour,” the authors write. ”The formula varies these days, but we`ve made our version with a half pound sugar, butter and flour for a dense cake that is especially good toasted.
”Let the cake stand, covered, overnight for the best texture.”
HALF POUND CAKE
10 to 12 servings
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Microwave cooking time: 15 to 18 minutes
1 tablespoon shortening, unsalted margarine or butter
3 tablespoons Zweiback or plain cookie crumbs
1/2 pound butter
1 1/2 cups cake or all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup granulated sugar
4 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla
Confectioners` sugar
1. Grease a 9- by 5-inch loaf dish with the shortening. Coat the inside with the crumbs.
2. Place the 1/2 pound butter in a large microwave-proof bowl. Microwave on defrost (30 percent power) for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, or until softened; do not melt. Meanwhile, sift the flour and baking powder together in a bowl; set aside. Beat the granulated sugar into the butter until fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Stir in the flour until well blended. Stir in the vanilla. Cover the ends of the loaf dish with 2-inch wide strips of foil to prevent overcooking.
3. Pour the batter into the prepared dish. Place on a microwave-proof cereal bowl in the oven. Microwave on medium (50 percent power) for 10 minutes, remove foil and microwave on high for 3 to 6 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the center all the way to the bottom comes out clean, rotating 1/4 turn, twice, if necessary. (The top may appear damp but not wet; a skewer or broom straw inserted in the center will come out clean. Make sure the skewer goes all the way to the bottom of the dish and comes out clean.)
Let the cake stand directly on the counter for 15 minutes. Turn out onto a serving dish and cool completely. Sprinkle with confectioners` sugar.
Variations:
Lemon pound cake: Add 2 tablespoons grated lemon rind with the vanilla.
Cranberry pound cake: Fold in 1 cup fresh cranberries with the vanilla.
