If you`ve been struck by crinoline fever, fashion`s latest bug that could reach epidemic proportions by next spring, we`ve devised the perfect cure. Feed the fever, and indulge in the flirty, petticoated looks now for a swirling, twirling holiday season.
Self-diagnosis can confirm that you`ve truly fallen victim to the trendy new fashion disease. Check for the early warning signals: Do you have an uncontrollable urge to twist and spin your way down the street? Is an evening of endless dancing suddenly a clear-cut choice over a romantic dinner a deux? Does a flatbed truck seem like a more desirable mode of transportation than an Alfa Romeo?
If your reaction is positive, we prescribe a holiday season frothing over with oh-so-sweet and saucy dance-skirt looks–to help build your immunity by spring.
The bouffant skirts, dresses and frilly crinolines are beginning to hit the stores now, but you can create your own version of this soon-to-be-sizzling trend using the resources of Chicago`s vintage clothing stores and other specialized shops.
SHORT AND SWINGY
The look that stirred up a sensation at the recent showing of spring `87 collections in Milan, London, Paris and New York centers around the short and very full, swinging skirt. Layered with ruffly petticoats (or tulle crinolines), the skirt turns up the volume in pouffy, flouncy and bubbled shapes and is best when teamed with a slim, fitted top for a silhouette that is reminiscent of the `50s, but with an undeniably `80s edge.
The essential ingredient of your up-to-the-minute look is the crinoline. These bouffant petticoats are composed of stiffened layers of ruffles, made in fabrics ranging from organza-look rayon to tulle netting.
Vintage stores that remember the `50s well and costume shops are good sources to check for the best prices, but the place to go for a wide selection is a square-dance or Western wear shop. With all sizes and shapes of crinolines (some so bouffant you can set your drink down on the sides) hanging from the ceiling and walls in every color from candy pink to screaming green, these stores are crinoline heaven. Prices start at $10.95 and go all the way up to $150 for the knock-`em-dead version.
ONE, TWO, THREE
Once you`ve established the framework, you are ready to work your way out. Depending upon how crazy you are for crinolines, you might want to be very daring (and tres courant) by wearing just the crinoline–as a skirt–over leggings and a body-hugging top. Or try mixing two or three crinolines in contrasting shades for a color-mad look.
But if you want to keep the crinoline down under, you can go one of two routes: choosing an airy and feminine prom-dress look or opting for separates with a skirt and top.
Flirty-skirted dresses like the one on Style`s cover are hiding out under the guise of prom and pageant gowns at bridal and special-occasion shops. Many of the dresses you`ll find will be long; just ask the shop`s alterations whizzes to cut them off or shorten them from the waist. You`ll find this look for as little as $100, but going for the glamor can bring the price up to $300 or $400.
The dresses that will best make the transition from prom night to fashion`s fast lane are the ones in tulle or taffeta that have a slim (and preferably bare) top meeting up with a voluminous skirt. The details that count include ruffles, tiers, flounces and bows.
Vintage and thrift shops are places where old prom and evening dresses from the `40s, `50s and early `60s go to live again. You`ll find acres of looks made from tulle and chiffon. Just sift through the choices until you find the best strapless or off-the-shoulder styles. Expect to find dresses anywhere from $40 to $200.
If you opt for separates, begin your search for a skirt by thinking full, full, full–roomy enough to slide over that wide-load crinoline you just bought. The first place to look is in the square-dance store before you exit with your crinoline. With plenty of fabric (and ruffles and tiers by the mile), these skirts were certainly made for dancing and come in a wide range of colors, but are almost all made of cotton. They`ll run you between $30 and $40.
If you want a dressier or more festive fabric, move on to the vintage and thrift shops and look for circle skirts and gathered dance skirts from the
`50s.
You`ll probably have to shorten the skirt a few inches, though. Try basting it up; or, if you consider a needle a dangerous weapon, strips of strong packing tape will always see you through until your tailor opens Monday.
One additional resource to check for skirts (especially if you`re unsure of just how committed you are to this look) is a costume rental shop. They often will have can-can skirts that have all the right moves for dancing and often come in steal-the-show colors. Skirts rent for about $20 for three days, crinolines for about $15 for three days.
Moving up top, you`ll want to adjust your perspective and think fitted and slim, so that your top or sweater offsets the fullness of the skirt. The vintage stores will be your best bet again, as many of them have a wide variety of sleek tops that have starred in the past. Look for off-the-shoulder or scoop-necked sweaters and jersey tops or strapless bustiers in velvet or satin. You might also check your own closet; a long-sleeved leotard or a fitted turtleneck in an evening fabric would also be just the look.
Add the finishing touches: Try pulling your hair into a ponytail tied with a soft bow or donning a headband, as the models on the European runways did; cinch in your waist with a wide satin belt or ribbon; slip on some evening gloves; step into your highest heels–and start twisting the night away. —
WHERE TO GO TO GET THE LOOK
Here is a list of specialized stores we used as sources to create the crazy-for-crinolines look:
BRIDAL/SPECIAL-OCCASION SHOPS
Gigi`s Closette, 1520 E. Lake Ave., Glenview, 729-5110. Loads of prom and pageant dresses.
House of Brides, 4353 N. Harlem Ave., 775-2900 (also Niles, Schaumburg, Oakbrook Terrace and North Riverside). Full selection of prom and pageant dresses.
COSTUME SHOPS
Broadway Costume, 932 W. Washington St., 829-6400. Can-can skirts and crinolines–for rental only.
Chicago Costume Co., 1120 W. Fullerton Ave., 528-1264. Crinolines, can-can skirts and other costume skirts for rent.
THRIFT SHOPS
Chicago`s Recycle Shop, 5308 N. Clark St., 878-8525. Ask for George and make an appointment to see the collection of vintage clothing kept downstairs –an extensive selection of prom dresses and `50s skirts and tops.
The White Elephant Shop, 2380 N. Lincoln Ave., 281-3747. A good resource to check for evening dresses.
SQUARE-DANCE CLOTHES
Square Dance Attire, 7215 W. Irving Park Rd., 589-9220. Crinoline heaven
–and a good source for skirt looks.
VINTAGE CLOTHING
Clark Street Waltz, 2360 N. Lincoln Ave., 472-5559. Beautiful `50s tops.
Flashy Trash, 3521 N. Halsted St., 327-6900. Excellent prom dress selection.
Franny`s, 2937 N. Clark St., 935-7448. Good selection of crinolines, `50s skirts and prom dresses.
Gloria, 1007 W. Webster Ave., 327-9665. Wonderful prom dresses.
Legacy Vintage, 953 W. Armitage Ave., 935-0374, and 2523 N. Clark St., 871-6900. Crinolines, `50s skirts, tops and prom dress looks galore.
Silver Moon, 3337 N. Halsted St., 883-0222. Excellent `50s tops and skirts.
Studio V, 672 N. Dearborn St., 440-1937. Nice selection of tops and skirts from the `50s. —
