I walked from our cottage to the secluded beach where he was lying on a chair. The sky was a brilliant blue, the sea a tranquil turquoise. It was another perfect day that followed a perfect night on a perfect romantic island in the Caribbean.
I took a picture of my husband. I wanted to remember this moment, one of many that I cherish from our too-brief stay at Petit St. Vincent, a very special hideaway in the Windward Islands.
PSV had tempted me from a distance ever since I read about it in a travel book years ago. It sounded like a place for lovers. Its smallness was appealing: Twenty-two secluded cottages discreetly placed on a 113-acre island that the resort shares with no other property. No TVs or telephones in the room. Beautiful beaches. Water sports, including snorkeling. At least one tennis court. And a reputation for some of the best food in the Caribbean. A staff of 60 takes care of 44 guests and their children.
On top of all that, I liked the resort`s ingenious idea for room service: Outside each cottage there is a bamboo pole with two flags–hoist the yellow one for room service, the red one for ”do not disturb.” And a bell is thoughtfully placed at the side of the cottage so the staff can ring before entering.
Also nice for guests was the no tipping policy. (A 10 percent service charge is added to the bill at the end of your stay.)
I was ready to book a trip immediately. Then I discovered you can`t get there in a day from Chicago–you have to overnight on one of the larger islands like Barbados and take a small prop plane the next day for the one-hour flight to Union Island, then travel the five miles from Union to PSV in the resort`s 42-foot fishing trawler, Wakiva. There is no landing strip on the island.
Part of PSV`s allure is its inaccessibility, but this hard-to-get quality took a few years to overcome for me and my husband, Jack. After a few trips together to other islands in the Caribbean–some winners, some losers–we decided to head for PSV after a few days unwinding in Barbados.
(Instead of flying directly to Barbados and then heading for PSV, we got a cheaper air fare to Barbados by booking a three-day Eastern package in Barbados which allowed us to return to Chicago five days later after our trip to PSV–air fare there was an additional $206 roundtrip, a person.)
We were met on Union Island by Chester, a friendly man from Petit Martinique who captains the PSV boat and has been with the resort since it opened in 1968. After the half-hour boat ride from Union, we set foot on the PSV dock and were served a tropical drink. While we shook hands with Jennifer Richardson, the manager/part-owner (her husband, Haze, was away on business;
the other owners live in the States), one of the PSV staff loaded our luggage into a mini-Moke (a kind golf cart). We climbed into the vehicle (the only method of transportation on the island) for the short ride to our cottage.
My fingers were crossed that we`d land a secluded bluff cottage that we requested when we booked the trip. I dreamed about the two of us flaking out on our very private deck in our very private cottage overlooking the sea.
My heart sank when the mini-Moke turned away from the road to the bluff cottages and headed toward the sea, pulling up at a cottage that shared a common wall with . . . another cottage! A thick stone wall separated the two units and the patios, so there was a feeling of privacy, but now, with the looming prospect of our neighbors right next door, it didn`t seem like the romantic getaway we wanted.
When Jennifer arrived at our cottage to give us our orientation she sensed our disappointment and apologized for not being able to honor our request. She offered to move us if one of the hillside or bluff cottages became available.
As it turned out, cottage 12 was a good spot for us. It was a few steps down our private path to the beach and to one of the resort`s piers–perfect for my husband, the fisherman, because he brought his fishing tackle and wanted to throw out a line every day.
As for our neighbors, the only time we saw them was the day before we departed.
Like the 21 other one-bedroom cottages, ours had a living room with two sofas that could open into day beds and a table for meals (guests usually take breakfast and afternoon tea in their rooms). The bedroom had two queen size beds and a sliding glass door that opened onto a private patio.
There is a rustic elegance to the cottages. Walls are of thick Bluebitch stone from the island`s quarry. Louvered wooden shutters and rush rugs on red tile floors make you feel like you`re in the tropics.
The bathroom is rustic, too, with a shower floor made of stone and other floors of tile. Vanities in the bathroom and dressing room is not fancy but spacious. And, the bathroom is stocked with a hibiscus-lined basket filled with scented soaps, shampoo, body lotion, a first-aid kit, a sewing kit and suntan oil. Another nice touch in the rooms are flower-filled conch shells.
Folded nearby were two terry cloth robes with a PSV crest (available to take home for $50). Tucked away in closets were tatami mats, canvas-back beach chairs, an umbrella, flashlight, mosquito repellent and blankets. Two breakfast-in-bed trays were perched atop the closet.
In the living room there was a radio. Every morning a chest full of ice was delivered, and two fresh beach towels arrived with daily maid service.
During the day sugar birds, sandpipers and morning doves would drop by looking for leftover breakfast morsels. They liked to hide out in the trees by our cottage. The island is filled with cacti as well as frangipani, bougainvillea, hibiscus, oleander and jasmine trees and bushes.
All of the cottages are special, but I think the most romantic–and secluded–cottages are the ones on the bluff–Nos. 1-5 and cottage No. 18. All have hammocks on their decks and they`re a little smaller than the beach cottages. On the beach, the most tucked-away cottage is No. 6. (Some might view the least private rooms as being the cottages with two units, separated by a thick stone wall. They are No. 12 and 13 and No. 14 and 15.)
Cottage No. 1 has the most spectacular view to the neighboring Grenadine islands of Mayreau, Cannouan and Tobago Cays. Cottage No. 18 is hidden from the rest of the resort and looks across to Petit Martinique, a few miles away. It also has steps which lead to what amounts to its own private beach, albeit a small one.
When it`s windy, the bluff cottages can be the least desirable locations. That wind can be a problem around the rest of the resort, too. During our five-day stay in December we encountered brisk ”Christmas winds” and several rain storms during the day and night. And, even though the temperatures were in the 70s, the ”wind-chill factor” (just like in Chicago) made it seem colder.
This put a temporary cramp in our beach and snorkel time. We wanted to snorkel near our room, but we thought the seas were too choppy–and the wind made things too chilly by our standards. We eventually strolled to the Caribbean side of the island where the wind was calmer and the sea was warmer. The winds also made an ordeal of reading on the beach or the cottage patio.
However, considering what the resort had to offer, we promised not to complain to each other about the weather when we imagined what the temperature was in Chicago.
A highlight of our trip was a morning spent on a small sand spit a couple of miles away that PSV has named Petit St. Richardson. Guests can book it as often as they like. Once they reserve it, its theirs alone. Management won`t allow any other guest from the resort to share it. The staff also will pack a lunch for you (beverages of your choice), and return to pick you up at a designated time.
We loaded our snorkel gear (available free at the resort), a cooler filled with lunch, beach blankets, sunscreen, camera and took off in the motor launch with Elvis, of the PSV staff, at the helm.
The Grenadines are popular with sailors and yachtsmen, and as we got closer to PSR we spotted a group of them snorkeling off the small island. We couldn`t ask them to leave–the beach was public.
So much for our island for two, we thought. Luckily, they left soon after our arrival, and we slipped into the water to encounter some beautiful snorkeling. We were amused by a small, aggressive fish that liked to play a cat and mouse game with us.
After a lunch of fruit and delicious ham and cheese sandwiches that we had under the island`s only palapa, we took a couple of pictures and waited under the palapa for Elvis to return. We noticed that the ubiquitious C. Columbus had been there before us, his initials scrawled on the post. How could he ever leave?
On other days, we could have made use of the resort`s hobie cats, sunfish or windsurf boards–at no extra charge. But, we didn`t. We also could have (at extra charge) gone waterskiing or deep sea fishing. But, we didn`t.
Jack spent several days fishing with Elvis. A few times, I browsed in the resort`s boutique, well-stocked with island clothing, jewelry, gifts and other sundries. Books and games are available here to borrow.
We got our exercise by playing tennis in the early morning on the resort`s one court (serious players might find fault with the not-so-great surface) that`s lit at night, and by taking long walks along the beach and through the island`s ”forest,” which the owners are planting with mango trees, banana plants, almond trees and paw paw (papaya).
By now, a 20-station fitness course in the ”forest” and near the sea, should be ready for use. It is nearly possible to continuously walk the beach around the two-mile island.
One side trip I regret not making was a day sail aboard the Piragua, a 40-foot trimaran, to one of the other Grenadines. For six years, John and Casey Anthony have been running day sails out of PSV to the Tobago Cays, Mayreau, Palm Island and other spots known for great snorkeling and beautiful beaches. Cost is $60 a person, and PSV provides the lunch.
Another friendly aspect of PSV are the six yellow Labrador retrievers. On one beach walk, we were accompanied by two of them, Brandy and Alexander. We were–as most guests are–charmed by them and their buddies and relatives
–Samson, Delilah, Clarence and Cleopatra. Some guests have been so smitten that they send letters and Christmas cards to the lovable beasts as well as pictures of them to the Richardsons.
While we were there, one of them adopted an English couple and their young son. On several mornings, two stopped by our cottage, but they wouldn`t come inside for breakfast leftovers unless we invited them. They also know the dining room pavilion is off limits.
It doesn`t take long to get into relaxing, PSV style. Management and the accommodating staff from the neighboring islands of St. Vincent, Bequia, Mayreau and Union, make it easy for you. In each cottage, there is a straw portfolio filled with sheets listing breakfast menus, the room service bar menu and requests for early morning coffee and/or tea, afternoon tea and/or coffee and transportation (if you need a ride to the dining room or elsewhere on the island).
You fill out a sheet with your request, put it in the bamboo pole slot and hoist the yellow flag. For breakfast and early morning coffee, guests place their orders in the bamboo pole slot or deliver them to the bartender at supper.
For early risers, coffee is delivered quietly at 6:30 a.m. No bell is rung, so as not to disturb a sleepmate.
Breakfast has many possibilities: choices of banana, grapefruit, mango and paw paw (in season); juice of freshly squeezed orange, tomato, pineapple, passion fruit or grapefruit. There`s also dry cereal with milk (unfortunately, it`s condensed or powered), french toast, pancakes, kippered herrings and plain, cheese, ham or spinach omelets. Eggs are offered boiled, fried, poached or scrambled. Orders also come with toast, assorted breads and croissants. There is a choice of ham, sausage or bacon. We tried everything and thought the food was first-class, including the excellent strong coffee (decaf and regular).
The lunch buffet in the dining room pavilion features one hot entree and about eight cold dishes (roast beef, pork, chicken, fish, shrimp), salads and dessert. One day the buffet was overflowing with an immense lobster salad. The staff will deliver a smaller version of the lunch buffet to your cottage.
Those interested in a beach lunch can arrange with the office to transport them and their gear (including the cottage chaise longue, if they wish) to one of the island`s deserted beaches. (All the thatch bohios on the beach have hammocks.) The staff will even pack a lunch for you, too,
(sandwiches and fruit) and pick you up at your requested time.
On request, afternoon tea with tasty banana nut bread arrives in the cottages between 4-5 p.m.
In the evening, guests usually gather around the comfortable bar for cocktails before heading into dinner, served between 7:30-9 p.m. The PSV bartenders seem to have a remarkable ability to remember the room number of each guest so you don`t have to continually sign for drinks. And, if you don`t fancy a tropical drink on the beverage menu, ask Collis or Norman or one of the other bartenders to make a special drink surprise for you.
At dinner, guests sit in comfortable director`s chairs at candlelit, linen-covered tables for two or more (the number of dining companions is up to you. The ever-changing menu features three courses with a choice of two appetizers, three entrees (always a fish course), vegetables and two desserts. Wine is extra.
During our stay, appetizers included pumpkin cream soup, spinach noodles with blue cheese and walnuts and duck confit with blackeye pea salad. Entrees were stuffed and roasted game hens with curry and mango chutney, lobster thermidor, salmon with herb and garlic butter, veal medallions with paw paw and wine sauce and grilled turtle steak with garlic butter. Fresh fish and lobster come from the local waters.
Desserts included black bottom pie, banana flambee, coffee bavarian cream mousse and paw paw mousse. Only the mousses were disappointments.
Chef ”Slick” and his staff lived up to their reputation for fine food, imaginatively prepared and attractively presented. The food is a mix of island, French, American and other cuisines.
We learned one guest was on a special diet that required skim milk. She contacted the Richardsons in advance and they managed to have skim milk for most of her stay.
There`s a good selection of wines that concentrates on French reds (11 selections) and whites (13). Prices start at $8 and top out at $27. Whites include Meursault, Graves and Sancerre. Pommard, St. Emilion, Beaujolais and Cotes du Rhone are among the reds. There are six champagnes, including two splits, Dom Perignon ($69) and Veuve Clicquot ($19; cheaper than it was in the Barbados duty free airport shop).
One night we decided to have dinner in our cottage. Even though it arrived 45 minutes late, it was worth the wait because the night turned rainy. With dinner, the waiter even set the table with a tablecloth. All that was missing was a candle.
Earlier in the day, we selected appetizers of cream of eddo soup (it came piping hot from a thermos) and escargot followed by entrees of conch parmesan and lamb chops with cream of shallots. Desserts were cheese cake and coconut Bavarian cream mousse.
It was very romantic as we dined and listened to our favorite tapes on a cassette recorder we`d brought with us. After dinner the maids came in to perform their evening ritual–turning down the bed linens and placing a candy atop a doily on the pillows.
PSV is a quiet place when it comes to entertainment. There is no piano bar or disco. Once a week, a steel band arrives from St. Vincent for a ”jump up.” They were so good we wished they would stayed for an extra night or two. If not them, the excellent string band, also from St. Vincent, who played the next night. Both groups were real treats.
Also once a week the Richardsons invite guests to their lovely hilltop home without doors for a cocktail party.
I suppose you could count entertainment in the form of the famous people who visit PSV, though there`s no guarantee when they`ll show up, and management is too discreet (as they should be) to divulge names. Let`s just say that some guests have included well-known movie stars, politicians, models and rock stars. While we were there, Benny Andersson of the now-defunct rock group, Abba, arrived to celebrate his 40th birthday. He flew in a group of people from Stockholm for the occasion.
We weren`t the only ones, of course, who have found PSV a romantic spot. It`s a popular destination with honeymooners and second honeymooners as well as people celebrating anniversaries. Several couples have even been married on the island (one in cottage No. 4). Getting married here is not an easy feat as couples have to get their blood test in St. Vincent, 40 miles away.
More than 50 percent of the guests come back, and usually request the same cottage. Most are Americans, but the place is popular with Europeans, particularly Italians, English, Germans, French and Swiss.
We were told that some of the best weather (sunny days, little wind)
arrives in January and February, but the months of May-August are supposed to be good, too. Rainy months tend to be September to early November. The resort also is less crowded during spring and summer, which means a better chance of getting the cottage of your choice.
Of course, PSV isn`t for everyone. It`s not for travelers who require marble bathrooms and carpeted floors, TV and a phone in every room. It`s for people who like a minimum of daytime activity and quiet nights. It`s a place well suited for people who are stressed out from jobs back home–and, of course, lovers.
Would we go again? Yes. Only the next time we`d take less clothing and stay longer.
This was one place where the beautiful pictures in the brochure lived up to their expectation.
