BERGHOFF, 17 W. Adams St., 427-3170. German/American. In content and appeal, the Berghoff remains solidly in the past, a snapshot of old Chicago. Yet in spirit it stays young, always willing to try new menu ideas. And it always gives its customers an honest meal for an honest price, which is more than can be said of many a fancier place. Recommended: Private label bourbon and beer, sirloin steak salad, mahi mahi with macadamia nut sauce, veal ragout, white chocolate mousse, Black Forest cake. Hours: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat. Closed Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: accepted for parties of five or more. Other: Reduced parking rates after 4 p.m.–PAC (STAR)
GOLDEN OX, 1578 N. Clybourn Ave., 664-0780. German. This 60-year-old Chicago favorite has survived urban renewal to continue its tradition of fine, fresh food in a restrained but genuine gemutlich setting. The food is typically German: Hearty, heavy, predictable and thoroughly enjoyable. Recommended: Hackepeter, appetizer platter, braised oxtails, zwiebelfleisch, Frederick veal, hasenpfeffer, cherry strudel. Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Sat., 3-8 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Recommended.–(STAR)
(STAR)
HANS` BAVARIAN LODGE, 931 N. Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling, 537-4141. German. Fair to good German food served up in several comfortable, wood-paneled rooms decorated with beer steins. Dirndl-clad waitresses and an accordion player or piped-in German music add color. German beer and wine list. Recommended: Sulze (a gelatin-bound meat loaf made with pork and veal), zwiebelfleisch
(sauteed sirloin steak generously covered with swiss and cheddar cheeses and sauteed sweet onion rings), Hungarian goulash, braised veal shank, apple strudel from the distantly related Berghoff restaurant. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Tues.-Thurs.; to 11 p.m. Fri; 4-11 p.m. Sat.; noon-9 p.m. Sun. Closed Mon. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, D, V. Reservations:
Accepted. Other: Free parking.–PT (STAR)
GREEK
GREEK ISLANDS, 200 S. Halsted St./782-9855. Greek. Big, bustling, noisy
–a real mood changer–plunk in the middle of Greektown. Its traditional Greek fare is dependable, portions are large, service is swift. Recommended:
Melitzanosalata (eggplant spread), cold octopus in wine sauce, fried zucchini, avgolemono (egg-lemon soup), braised lamb, pan-fried squid, fish shish-ke-bab. Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight, Sun.-Thur.; to 1 a.m. Fri, Sat. Price range:
Moderate. Credit: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. PT (STAR)(STAR)
INDIAN
BOMBAY PALACE, 50 E. Walton St., 664-9323. An imperial setting teeming with elegantly displayed Indian artifacts. Part of an international chain, it produces good, spicy (but not hot) curries that even timid palates will relish. Recommended: Chicken and vegetable pakoras, shammi kebab, poori, lentils, tandoori prawns, chicken curry, chicken and lamb biryanis, masala tea. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m., Sat.;
dinner 5:30-11 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 5:30-11:30 Sat.; 5:30-10:30 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, V. Reservations:
Accepted. Other: Valet parking during dinner hours only.–ML (STAR)(STAR)
STANDARD INDIA RESTAURANT, 871 N. Rush St., 943-1050. Indian. Standard India is a fine addition to the Rush Street dining scene, though the cooking here lacks the finesse that differentiates great Indian restaurants from the average. Service is attentive. Dishes from the tandoori oven make the best dinner selections. For appetizers, try allo tikki, mashed potato patties filled with spiced lentils, peas and herbs, dipped into spicy mint sauce or sweet chutney. Recommended: Shami kabob, samosa, sheekh kababs, grilled prawns, vegetarian dishes, breads. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. daily;
dinner 5-10:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., to midnight Fri., Sat. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, DC, D, M, V. Reservations: Recommended.–PAC (STAR)
VICEROY OF INDIA, 104 1/2 W. Roosevelt Rd., Villa Park, 834-3105. Indian. Two restaurants in one, this newcomer offers a fast-food counter with booths plus a full menu in a more formal though still sparsely decorated dining room. Expect assertively spiced, sometimes too oily fare; stew-like lamb vindaloo will blow your socks off. Use Golden Eagle beer, an Indian brand with a pleasant spiciness of its own, or lassi, a refreshing yogurt shake, as antidotes. Recommended: Chicken tandoori; dal makhni (lentils in a creamy, yogurt sauce); for dessert, jalebi. Hours: Menu section: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner, 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. daily. Fast food section: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. daily; includes $5.45 all-you-can-eat lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. daily. Price Range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted.
–PT (STAR)
INTERNATIONAL
THE COTTAGE, 525 Torrence Ave., Calumet City, 891-3900. Continental. This classy mom and pop restaurant is the sort of small, cozy place one expects to find in the French countryside, not in the industrial south suburbs. Carolyn and Jerry Buster (she is the chef, he occupies himself with the dining room and the impressive wine list), have built a loyal following that crowds the place to overflowing on weekend evenings. Ample portions of innovative combinations such as lamb with chicken and quail with duck, intricate sauces, extravagant desserts. The youthful serving staff is inexperienced, but diligent. Recommended: lamb sausage with peppers, scallops and shrimp with citrus butter sauce, rack of lamb, raspberry cake, hazelnut pear cheesecake. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., dinner 6-10 p.m. Tues.-Fri.; 5-11 p.m. Sat. Closed Sun., Mon. Price range: Expensive. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations:
accepted. Other: Accesible to handicapped; free parking. –WR (STAR)(STAR)
(STAR)
CHEF HANS, 7011 N. Western Ave., 743-2272. Continental. Chef Hans stands out from the crowd of North Side restaurants precisely because it occupies the niche between the expensive and special-occasion spots and the inexpensive fast-food joints. It also goes against the grain of contemporary dining trends with a menu that features continental specialties and roast prime rib of beef and Yorkshire pudding. Recommended: Beef, grilled or poached salmon, roast duck, strawberries with sabayon. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tues.-Fri.;
dinner, 5-10 p.m. Tues.-Fri., 5-11 p.m. Sat., 4:30-9:30 p.m. Sun. Closes Mon. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, D, V. Reservations:
Accepted. Other: Free valet parking.–PAC (STAR)
JILLY`S CAFE, 2614 Green Bay Rd., Evanston, 869-7636. A small, modest-looking restaurant that belies the excellent down-to-earth food. Some creativity is thrown in for excitement. Recommended: Appetizers, soups, sliced veal, blackened fish, pan-roasted duck, cappuccino cheesecake, carrot cake. Hours: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tues.-Sat., 5-8:30 p.m. Tues.-Thurs.; 5:30-10:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat. Closed Sun.-Mon. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Other: Wheelchair accessible.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
(STAR)
ITALIAN
ARMANDO Q, 310 W. Rand Rd., Arlington Heights, 259-5051. Italian American. For connoisseurs of old-fashioned Italian-American dining, this suburban roadhouse holds no surprises, just competent renditions of favorite dishes. The bar throbs with music and conviviality while diners enjoy themselves in less frenetic surroundings. Recommended: Pizza bread, salad bar, fettuccini verdi, red snapper, chicken vesuvio. Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.- Fri.; dinner, 4 p.m.-midnight Mon.-Thurs., 4 p.m.-1 a.m. Fri., 3 p.m.-1 a.m. Sat., 3-11 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V.–MK (STAR)
ARTIE G`s, 125 W. Ohio St., 661-0042. Italian. A pleasant occupant in the newly renovated River North Hotel with some good Italian surprises. Recommended: Seafood appetizers, soup, gnocci, veal marsala, veal chop, chicken vesuvio, stewed escarole, dessert. Hours: 6:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m. daily. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations:
Accepted.–PAC (STAR)
AVANZARE, 161 E. Huron St., 337-8056. Northern Italian. High quality food that`s imaginative and wonderful. Good service in a spacious, sophisticated setting. Recommended: Appetizers, pasta specials, duck breast in port wine, scallope of veal, seafood specials, grilled vegetables, gelato, desserts. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner, 5:30-9:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; 5:30-10:30 p.m. Fri. Sat. Price range: Expensive. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
BILLY`S, 6755 N. Cicero Ave., Lincolnwood, 675-3135. Italian. Decent Italian food, with excellent service and a great Sinatra sound-alike entertainer. Mostly standard southern Italian specialties, a few unique entrees that work and large portions in a stylish atmosphere. Recommended:
Cold appetizers, black-bean soup special, swordfish Vesuvio, veal medallions, giambotta. Hours: 4 p.m.-midnight. Closed Sun. and Mon. Price range:
Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: Free parking.–PAC (STAR)
BRAVISSIMO, 508 N. Clark St., 644-1427. Italian. The former Lexander has been transformed into a contemporary Italian restaurant complete with light, fresh, clean flavors. Dishes from various regions of Italy are represented with a definite authentic approach. The menu is divided among courses and changes weekly. Recommended: Appetizers, pastas, veal and scampi. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 5-11:30 p.m. Sat. Closed Sun. Price range:
Moderate. Credit cards: A, M, V, DC. Reservations: Accepted.–PAC (STAR)(STAR) CAFE SPIAGGIA, One Magnificent Mile (980 N. Michigan Ave.), 280-2750. Northern Italian. Joining the ranks of Chicago`s classiest restaurants, Spiaggia`s elegant decor and meticulously prepared meals make it a special place for a special occasion. Menu changes nightly, and most seats offer spectacular view of Oak Street Beach. Recommended: tomato pasta butterflies and asparagus, grilled boned quail, grilled red snapper, tagliata, tiramisu. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:15 p.m., dinner, 5:30-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat.. Price range: expensive. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, V, D. Reservations: necessary.– MS (STAR)(STAR)
CAFFE LUCCI, 609 Milwaukee Ave., Glenview, 729-2268. Italian. If you find yourself in Glenview and hungry for a good plate of pasta, this place will satisfy your cravings. Simple and properly cooked pasta dishes are the rule here, and the list of appetizers helps fill out a meal. When the place isn`t busy, waiters make worthwhile recommendations. Recommended: Fried zucchini, fish salad, paglia e fieno, shrimp broccoli and fettuccini, cannoli. Hours: 11 a.m-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri. 4-11 p.m. Sat.; 4-9 p.m. Sun;
Bar open til midnight daily, to 2 p.m. Fri., Sat. to 11 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A. Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more weekends only.–MK (STAR)
CAFFE PRANZO, 4100 N. Western Ave., 588-6181. Italian. Much improved since our last review, the bright little restaurant is one of the better neighborhood places, serving up good food at fair prices. Recommended: Cheese argentera, antipasto, penne al buscaiolo, pasta with clam sauce. Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight Mon., to 1 a.m. Fri.; 4 p.m.- midnight Sat.; 4-11 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, V, M. Reservations: Accepted.–PAC
(STAR)(STAR)
CARLUCCI, 2215 N. Halsted St., 281-1220. Italian. It`s a lot easier now to get into this trendy spot than when it first opened. Less crowding hasn`t cut down the noise, but it`s helped improve the food. Pastas sparkle in simple, rich sauces, and even the house salad gets careful attention. Excellent Italian ice creams make good, if expensive, carryout. Recommended:
Fried squid, rigatoni with four cheeses, tortellini in tomato and cream sauce, fettuccine with lobster sauce, veal with raspberries, cannoli. Hours: 5:30-11 p.m. Mon.-Sat., 5-10 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted.–MK (STAR)(STAR)
DA NICOLA, 3114 N. Lincoln Ave., 935-8000. Italian. It`s hard to tell from the checked tablecloths and knowledgeable service that this ristorante and pizzeria used to be a Pepe`s. It now has a chef who is committed to seeking out fresh and often innovative ingredients for his dishes, making the thin-crust pizzas and pastas a delight. Recommended: Green mussels, fettucine with fresh tomatoes; scaloppine of veal with artichokes, fresh mushrooms and black olives; Italian-style cheesecake and custard. Hours: 4-11:30 p.m. Sun.- Thurs.; 4 p.m.-12:30 a.m. Fri., Sat.; closed Tues. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, V. Reservations: Accepted for parties of 5 or more; and during weekends.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
DEL DEBBIO, 908 Ogden Ave., Lisle, 960-4542. Italian. A family-run, local favorite dressed up with linen cloths and candles, this restaurant sparkles with Italian lights, framed posters of Italian scenes, and a full-sized tree poking through the floor of the bar. The menu is mostly Southern Italian
–plenty of red tomato sauce, meat-filled pasta and garlic. Servors are genuinely pleasant and helpful. Recommended: Fried calamari, pizza bread, veal vesuvio, cassata cake. Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Thur.; to midnight Fri; 4 p.m.-midnight Sat.; closed Sunday. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. PT (STAR)
FLORENTINE ROOM, 71 W. Monroe St., 332-7005. Italian. Those who haven`t been to the upscale Florentine Room in the landmark Italian Village for awhile are in for a pleasant surprise. The kitchen is doing fine after its switch from steaks and southern Italian red sauces to more trendy and creative northern Italian fare, and the award-winning wine list has swelled to an overwhelming 931 bottles. Recommended: Fried buffalo mozzarella, lasagne with baby eggplant, tortelli with mint-tomato sauce, veal with asparagus sauce, zuccotto. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; to midnight Sat.; closed Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, DC, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: Valet parking after 5:30, $3.–PT (STAR)(STAR)
GEORGE`S, 230 W. Kinzie St., 644-2290. Northern Italian. One of Chicago`s few supper clubs, George`s is a restaurant and a theater. It can be great fun in both roles when the performance and audience are right for each other. The basics of the award-winning interior have been restored after a fire. Recommended: Daily seafood specials, pastas. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner 5:30-9 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; 5:30-9 p.m. Sun. Price range:
Moderately expensive. Credit Cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Other: Entertainment begins at 9:30 p.m. Tues-Sat.; also 11 p.m. Fri., Sat., 8:30 p.m. Sun–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
MARTINI`S, 232 W. Grand Ave., 337-2935. Italian-American. A good old-fashioned family restaurant in the heart of the city that specializes in stiff drinks and large quantities of food at moderate prices. Recommended: Cajun shrimp, pasta, steak, veal, rolled tenderloin. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m.; dinner 4-11 p.m. Mon.-Sat. Closed Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: Free parking.–PAC (STAR)
SYLVIA`S, 8101 W. 123d St. (McCarthy Road), Palos Park, 448-5707. Italian. The former owners of La Fontanella opened this low-key restaurant built in the courtyard of a small shopping mall. The menu has a few very good items, portions are large and the wait staff is polite but lacks polish. The wine list is negligible. Recommended: Arancino, antipasto, chicken soup, Caesar salad, spaghetti, mostaccioli, veal ricco. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tues.-Fri.; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Tues.-Thur., 5-11:30 p.m. Fri., Sat., 4-9:30 p.m. Sun. Closed Mon. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Recommended for weekends.–PAC (STAR)
TENTH STREET CAFE, 1400 W. Taylor St., 243-8080. Italian. This rather handsome, dressed-up restaurant is an anomaly on down-home Taylor Street, its pastels, brass and neon trying to fit in alongside Mama Sue`s and Mategrano`s. The food is up to the competition, anyway, although the service needs polish. Recommended: Antipasto, linguini with red clam sauce, grilled steaks, veal francese, desserts. Hours: 10:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 4:30-11 p.m. Sat. Close Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: Free valet parking.–PAC (STAR)
TONY SPAVONE`S, 266 W. Lake St., Bloomingdale, 529-3154. Italian. Owner Tony Spavone literally sings to his customers (Thurs.-Sat. nights) in this warm, comfortable restaurant that offers good, solid, southern Italian fare. Recommended: Stuffed artichoke, cold seafood salad, lasagna, scampi. Hours:
Lunch, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner 4-10:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., to 11:30 Fri., Sat.; 2-9:30 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: Free Parking.–PT (STAR)
VERDI, 6818 W. North Ave., 889-5757. Italian. West Siders looking for a simple plate of pasta can choose this charming neighborhood spot. The staff includes Iranians, Poles, Mexicans and Italians who turn out reasonably priced meals in a typical Italian-American idiom. Although the menu offers a range of meats and fish, pastas are the stars here. Recommended: Broccoli and tomato appetizer, fried calamari, house salad, cheese ravioli, fettuccini alfredo. Hours: 4:30-10:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 5-11:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat. Closed Sunday. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends.–MK (STAR)
VIA VENETO, 3449 W. Peterson Ave., 267-0888. A small but pleasant neighborhood restaurant that`s worth a visit even if it`s not in your neighborhood. The service is warm and smooth, and the food is good, simple Italian basics. Recommended: Appetizers, risotti, pasta, veal medallions, chocolate cake. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 2:30-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 2:30 p.m.-midnight Fri.-Sat.; 4-10 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: American Express, Mastercard, Visa. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Other: Free parking behind the building.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
