The following listings include restaurants that have received favorable notices (one star or better) by a Tribune reviewer during the last year, plus well-known restaurants reviewed less recently.
The reviewer`s initials appear at the end of each listing: JMB, JeanMarie Brownson; PAC, Paul A. Camp; MK, Mark Knoblauch; CH, Carol Haddix; ML, Marcia Lythcott; WR, William Rice; MS, Margaret Sheridan; PT, Patricia Tennison.
Price ranges are based on a typical bill per person, including appetizer or soup, entree, dessert, tax and tip: inexpensive, under $10; moderate, $10- $20; moderately expensive, $20-$30; expensive, more than $30. Credit card abbreviations: A, American Express; C, Carte Blanche; D, Discovery; DC, Diners Club; M, MasterCard; V, Visa.
Tribune restaurant critics use the following star ratings:
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR) Outstanding
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR) Excellent
(STAR)(STAR) Very Good
(STAR) Good
Fair
Poor
AFGHAN
THE HELMAND, 3201 N. Halsted St., 935-2447. Afghan. The first Afghan restaurant in Chicago, the Helmand shows off this cuisine of interesting and complex flavorings with aplomb. Friendly, knowledgeable servers include one of the owners. While the consistent use of yogurt for saucing and the similarity of other ingredients create the illusion of sameness among the dishes, in fact each tastes surprisingly different. Recommended: Aushak (ravioli filled with leeks), banjan borawni (a sort of Afghan ratatouille), qeechrai, salads, feereny (homemade ricottalike cheese topped with raisins and candied carrots in a sweet carrot sauce). Hours: 5-10:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 5-11:30 p.m. Fri.- Sat.; closed Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Other: Handicapped-accessible.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
AMERICAN
AMERICAN JOE`S, 378 Park Ave., Glencoe. 835-4720. American. A casual eatery, complete with Indian rugs on the walls and a fireplace, American Joe`s specializes in fresh native ingredients. The menu changes frequently and the service is amiable. Recommended: Grilled shrimp and shiitake mushrooms;
grilled vegetables with red pepper and garlic mayonnaise; blackened fish, steak or chicken; steak Diane; Kahlua cream. Hours: Dinner, 5-9 p.m. Tues.-Thurs.; 5-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 5-8 p.m. Sun.; closed Mon. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations: Accepted.–PAC (STAR)
ARNIE`S, 1030 N. State St., 266-4800. Continental. This restaurant is unrivaled in its elegant Art Deco interiors. But the dishes have their ups and downs. A new chef produces some fine dishes and selectivity will produce fine meals, but basics need more attention in the kitchen. Recommended: Pizza with three cheeses, lobster pasta, fresh fish specials, salads and chocolate desserts. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner, 5:30-11 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 5:30 p.m.-midnight Fri., 5:30 p.m.-1 a.m. Sat., 5-10 p.m.: Sun. Brunch, 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sunday Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted.–PAC (STAR)
BAR HARBOR, 203 N. LaSalle St., 977-0100. American. Diners at this second-floor restaurant in the Transportation Building can either take in the view of the passing elevated trains outside or the action in the glassed-in kitchen inside while sampling fresh, mesquite-grilled seafood and other trendy dishes. The chef takes a light-handed approach with most offerings–grilling, roasting and sauteing with simple sauces. Recommended: mixed seafood grill, grilled breast of chicken, carrot cake and chocolate bombe. Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., dinner, 5-9 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; closed Sat., Sun.. Price range:
Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted.–PAC
(STAR)(STAR)
BODEGA BAY CAFE, One American Plaza (Sherman at Grove), Evanston, 328-8540. Eclectic. This latest venture of restaurateur Leslee Reis is packed with creative, assertively flavored, moderately priced, small ”tastings”
plus well-conceived, often dramatic looking entrees, teamed with a wonderful beer selection and bargain-priced wine list. Worth a visit, especially when adjacent Leslee`s jazz lounge is swinging. Recommended: Wild mushrooms with garlic and ancho chilies, Szechwan eggplant, pad Thai, grilled shrimp with ancho chili mayonnaise, Moroccan chicken with preserved lemon, and Mariscada, a Brazilian seafood dish. Hours: 6 p.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 5:30 p.m.-midnight Fri., Sat.; 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. PT (STAR)(STAR)
(STAR)
BOLTON`S, 21 W. Goethe St., 951-0195. American. This small, sophisticated dining room serves American cuisine built around simple, fresh ingredients and careful preparations. Servers do everything they can to please. Recommended:
Grilled swordfish, salmon or red snapper; chicken. Hours: 5-11 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 5-11:30 p.m. Fri., Sat.; closed Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. –PAC (STAR)(STAR)
CITY TAVERN, 33 W. Monroe St., 280-2740. American. Plunk in the middle of the Loop, City Tavern provides what many busy Chicago workers demand: a lively to loud, moderately-priced meeting spot with large portions of average to good quality American fare. Plenty of plants, polished wood, flattering soft pink lighting, and a 36-foot long mural of composite San Francisco to Chicago to New York scenes create the urban eaterie. Kudos for the 40 varieties of imported and domestic beer. Immediate ”rail” seating at counters on heavy, well-padded stools is a good option during busy lunch hours. You get the same, even-handed service. Recommended: Grilled stuffed burgers, chili nachos, ginger chicken pasta salad. Hours: 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sat.; closed Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, D, Discover, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. PT (STAR)
DITKA`S, 223 W. Ontario St., 280-1790. American. Not bad for a sports bar as restaurant, Ditka`s offers some good entrees and enough televisions in the dining room to satisfy sports fans. Prices and portions seem to be for professional athletes. Recommended: Harry Caray`s calamari, porterhouse steak, Ditka`s pork chops, battered chicken in garlic butter, Caesar salad, chocolate mousse. Hours: 11 a.m.-4 a.m. daily; lunch, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner, 5-midnight. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, S, V. Reservations: Required for lunch, not accepted for dinner. Other: Valet parking at $4.–PAC (STAR)
DIXIE BAR & GRILL, 225 W. Chicago Ave., 642-3336. Creole/Cajun. This converted warehouse serves better-than-average New Orleans and Southern-style food at reasonable prices to attract the Who`s Who of the seen-and-be-seen scene. Nightly jazz and the show in the open kitchen also make this a fun gathering place. Recommended: Blackened swordfish, pasta jambalaya, fried chicken salad, panned rabbit, collard greens, bread pudding. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri; dinner 5:30-10:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 5:30-11:30 Fri., Sat, 5-9 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Lunch only.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
DON ROTH`S RIVER PLAZA, 405 N. Wabash Ave., 527-3100. Cajun and Midwest. A new menu combines traditional favorites from the Blackhawk with some popular Cajun specialties. This eclecticism works well, but it`s hard to decide from which part of the menu to order. Avoid pasta dishes in favor of meats and fish. Recommended: Cajun popcorn, prime rib, blackened redfish, blackened sirloin strip, bread pudding. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner 5-10:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., to 11 p.m. Fri., Sat.; 5-10 p.m. Sun. Price range:
Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, DC, D, M, V. Reservations:
Recommended.– (STAR)(STAR)
ED DEBEVIC`S SHORT ORDERS/DELUXE, 640 N. Wells St., 664-1707. Also at 660 Lake-Cook Rd., Deerfield, 945-3242. American. Rich Melman`s latest venture, perhaps the ultimate greasy-spoon diner, is the hottest thing to hit the Chicago restaurant scene in years. Spike-haired, leather-jacketed, mini-skirted punks mingle with dowagers dripping displays of wealth in search of a blast from the past of their spent youth. Once inside, they all look and act like extras from a 1950s movie. By the way, there is food here, too. Recommended: Burgers, hand-cut fries, chili and chili dogs, meat loaf with mashed potatoes, malts. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-midnight Mon.-Thurs., to 1 a.m. Fri., Sat.; in Deerfield: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., to midnight Sat., to 10 p.m. Sun. Price range: moderate. Credit cards: Not accepted. Reservations: Not accepted.–PAC (STAR)
FOLEY`S, 211 E. Ohio St., 645-1261. American/seafood. Well-prepared American fare marks Michael Foley`s third restaurant, a spacious site just off Michigan Avenue. Expect more seafood than at his creative flagship Printer`s Row. Recommended: Mussel-corn chowder with cilantro, poached salmon with sun- dried tomatoes, grilled tuna, chocolate raspberry tart, riesling ice cream. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner 5:30-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., to 11 p.m. Fri., Sat. Closed Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted.–PT (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
GORDON, 500 N. Clark, 467-9780. American. The chef at this stylish spot calls on a wide range of ethnic influences–from Thai and Japanese to French and Italian. The result is a collection of sophisticated dishes artfully prepared. Service can be too leisurely. Recommended: roasted swordfish with shiitake mushrooms, grilled salmon with Chinese mustard glaze, roasted farm raised chicken with cracked black peppercorn and chicory, grilled lamb chops, flourless chocolate cake, walnut and almond tart. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner, 5:30-10 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., to 11 p.m. Fri. and Sat. Sun. brunch 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Price range: Moderately Expensive. Credit cards. A, C, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: Handicap facilitated, weekend valet parking.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
HARD ROCK CAFE, 63 W. Ontario St., 943-2252. American. Loud and cheerful, Hard Rock is for everybody. If one doesn`t mind the wait, the all-American fare is good, honest and filling at reasonable prices. Save room for dessert. Recommended: Appetizers, burgers, steaks, ribs, grilled swordfish, apple pie, chocolate cake. Hours: 1:30 a.m.-12:30 Sun.-Fri.; 11:30 a.m.-midnight Fri., Sat. noon-midnight Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted.–PAC (STAR)
HOUSTON`S, 616 N. Rush St., 649-1121. American. Part of a chain but also a hospitable neighborhood tavern on a grand scale with decent food, reasonable prices and a comfortable, convivial (but not too noisy) environment. Recommended: Plain barbecued chicken, ribs, steaks, lemon chicken salad, five- nut brownie with ice cream and kahlua. Hours: 11:15 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.- Thurs.; 11:15 a.m.-midnight Fri.-Sat.; noon-10 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted.–PAC (STAR)
LAWRY`S THE PRIME RIB, 100 E. Ontario St., 787-5000. American. A very popular, good old-fashioned restaurant with the best prime rib in town. The dinner menu is somewhat restricted and frequent large parties get boisterous, but for a simply good meat-and-potatoes meal, Lawry`s delivers. Recommended:
English and Lawry`s cuts of prime rib, steak with pepper sauce, soups, red ginger chicken salad, Cobb salad, served during lunch hours. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner, 5-11 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 5 p.m.-midnight Fri.-Sat., 3-10 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, S, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Other: Valet parking at $2.50 for dinner only.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
MARTHA`S VINEYARD, 1160 N. Dearborn St., 337-6617. American. Attractive, solid newcomer specializing in New England fare. Many of the fine desserts hail from nearby Albert`s Cafe & Patisserie. Recommended: Bookbinder soup, clam chowder, bacalhau a Portuguesa (cod casserole), broiled fish, apple bread pudding with black pepper sauce. Hours: Main restaurant: 5-10 p.m. Tues.-Thurs.; to 11 p.m. Fri., Sat.; 4-9 p.m. Sun. Closed Mon. Sun. brunch: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Tavern (raw oyster bar and sandwiches) hours: 4:30 p.m.-12:30 a.m. Tues.-Sat.; 11:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m. Sun. Closed Mon. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted.–PT (STAR)
MELANGE, 1515 Sheridan Rd. (Plaza del Lago), Wilmette, 256-1700. American. This celebration of California-style cooking fits right in with the shopping center`s Spanish architecture. But chef David Jarvis` cooking has hardly a false note in it. Fresh ingredients and a light hand with fish cookery make this one of the North Shore`s most exciting new restaurants. Recommended: Tortilla soup, salmon ravioli, green fettuccini with seafood, seafood entrees. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Tues.-Sat.; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Tues.-Thurs., 5-11 p.m. Fri., Sat., noon-8 p.m. Sun. Closes Mon. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Accepted.–MK
(STAR)(STAR)
MICHAEL STUART`S, 140 S. Wells St., 558-4700. American. Comfortable multilayered dining room with darkly stained wood and dramatic chandeliers mark this Loop restaurant that serves up decent fare. Roast duck is a triumph. Recommended: Duck with currant sauce, mussels with saffron sauce, wild rice soup, lamb chops, veal chops, kidneys in mustard sauce. Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.. Mon.-Fri.; dinner, 4-9 p.m. Mon.-Sat. Closed Sun. Price range:
Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: Validated parking.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)
OAK TERRACE, in the Drake Hotel, 140 E. Walton St., 787-2200. American. This quiet, gracious room upstairs in the venerable Drake Hotel is patronized by local Gold Coast residents and is an insider`s retreat. Food is fairly simple, lightly spiced fare. Some of the attentive staff has been around forever; the fish hasn`t. Good wine list. Recommended: Boston clam chowder, red snapper Bookbinder soup, chicken stuffed with papaya, broiled snapper, rice pudding. Hours: Breakfast, 7-11:30 a.m. Mon.-Sat., to 11 a.m. Sun.;
lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:45 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; dinner, 5-11 p.m. daily; Sun. brunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:45 p.m. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted.–PT (STAR)
P.J. CLARKE`S, 1204 N. State St., 664-1650. American. The first outpost of a popular New York bar and grill, this brand new ((yet ancient-looking)
spot serves decent fare at reasonable prices and has become the hottest bar in the Rush Street area. Recommended: watercress endive salad, chicken pot pie, spaghetti carbonara, grilled shrimp wrapped in bacon. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner, 5-11 p.m. Mon-Thurs.; 5 p.m.-1 a.m. Fri., Sat.; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: For parties of six or more only.–PAC (STAR)
PRINTER`S ROW, 550 S. Dearborn St., 461-0780. What began as a young chef`s daring gamble in a transitional neighborhood has matured into a front line establishment restaurant. It`s attractive, well managed and comfortable, despite the danger of conversational thunderclaps from groups celebrating someone`s good fortune. Chef/owner Michael Foley is often looking after newer restaurant ventures at meal time. But his creative imagination and devotion to regional and seasonal products is very much in evidence. The kitchen seems to value inventiveness over finesse, however. An excellent selection of American wines is available. Recommended: soups, salmon, game and duck dishes, chocolate desserts and sherbets on menu that changes with the seasons. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner 5-10 p.m. Mon-Thur., 5-11 p.m. Fri., Sat. Closed Sun. Price range: Expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, DC, M, V. Reservations: Accepted.–WR (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
SIERRA GRILL, 1400 N. Wells, 642-1160. Southwest American. This tiny room above an Old Town bar serves exquisite Southwestern fare. Chile-based creations don`t knock out diners` tastebuds and let through the foods`
subtleties. Spectacularly moist cornbread and a medley of four uniquely seasoned vegetables accompany every entree. Recommended: quesadilla, grilled venison sausage, pecan catfish, grilled chicken enchilada, fajitas, pralines. Hours: 5 p.m.-9 p.m. Sun.-Tues., 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Wed.-Thurs., 5 p.m.-Midnight Fri.-Sat. Price range: moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, M, V.–MK (STAR) (STAR)
STAR TOP CAFE, 2748 N. Lincoln Ave., 281-0997. American. A delightful, somewhat small restaurant that dishes out a weekly menu of light, refreshing food that`s heavy on flavor and creativity. The room is bright and the food is a good value. Recommended: Squid steak, confit of duck salad, black bean soup, rare breast of duck, blackened porgy, sauteed salmon, Japanese fruitcake. Hours: 5:30-11 p.m. Mon, Wed, Thurs., Sun.; 5:30 p.m.-5 a.m. Fri., Sat.;
closed Tues. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, DC, M, V. Reservations: Reccommended.–PAC (STAR)(STAR)(STAR)
STEVEN B`S, 817 University Pl., Evanston, 864-3280. American. Inventive American food and an attractive setting make this popular with the locals, but the inconsistencies in the food hold Steven B`s back. It has some remarkable dishes and could be even better with a more limited menu. Recommended: Pates, chicken mousse, duck and pasta, seafood. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner, 5:30-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 5:30-11 p.m. Fri., Sat, 5-9:30 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, D, M, V. Reservations:
Accepted. Other: Free parking.–PAC (STAR)
WINNETKA GRILL, 64 Green Bay Rd., Winnetka, 441-6444. American. The fanciful, formal decor here reflects serious efforts to keep at the front of American cuilinary trends. Mesquite grilling is a specialty. Recommended:
Mesquite grilled oysters, butternut squash ravioli, sauteed veal, sauteed shrimp. Hours: 5:30-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 5-10 p.m. Sat.; 5-9 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderately expensive. Credit cards: DC, A, M, V. Reservations:
Accepted. Other: Free parking.–PT (STAR)(STAR)
BRITISH
ATLANTIC RESTAURANT, 7115 W. Grand Ave., 622-3259. British. A casual, friendly place with down-to-earth basics and folk music during weekends, this 22-year-old restaurant is a good antidote to the current dining trends. Recommended: Gaelic delight appetizer, roast beef with Yorkshire pudding, fish and chips, shepherd`s pie, Scottish pastie, split pea soup. Hours: 3 p.m.-2 a.m. Sun.-Fri., 3 p.m.-3 a.m. Sat. Closed Tues. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Other: Free parking behind building.–PAC (STAR)
