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Don and Fran Wallace don`t use their favorite ceramic tableware anymore.

They searched for 2 1/2 years to find this collection of rustic-looking earthenware and carted all 150 pieces of it back to the United States from southern Italy, where it was made. But now they wouldn`t dream of putting it anywhere near the dinner table. Fran uses some pieces as planters; the rest is in boxes with big ”DO NOT USE” labels.

That`s because this dinnerware slowly and insidiously nearly poisoned them to death.

Their dinnerware leached lead. Because the ceramic had not been fired at a high enough temperature to stabilize the lead in its glaze, the noxious metal was released into their food and drink. In two years, this Seattle couple had ingested more lead than is considered normal and safe for six occupational workers to consume in a lifetime.

The Wallaces aren`t the only ones, and their dinnerware isn`t a token set. Don Wallace calls ceramic-related lead poisoning a ”national problem”

and ”a bigger health hazard in the home than asbestos.”

He may be right.

Other cases of lead intoxication have been linked to improperly made ceramic dinnerware, particularly imported ware that accounts for 60 percent of all ceramic dinnerware sales in the U.S., according to the U.S. Potters Association. In the last year alone, about 20,000 pieces of imported earthenware have been pulled off retail shelves and from mail-order catalogues across the country because they also were found to leach excessive amounts of lead.

A flurry of federal regulatory activity attests to the growing problem. In early February, a subcommittee of the U.S. House Committee on Energy and Commerce launched an investigation into the problem of lead contamination of food from pottery glazes. According to a spokesperson for the subcommittee, the investigation is questioning the ”adequacy of current FDA (Food and Drug Administration) standards and the adequacy of the FDA`s inspection and enforcement” procedures. A week later, the FDA announced plans to conduct a random survey of products already on the market–products that passed its initial inspection–to ensure they comply with lead release standards.

And, in a move the Wallaces, other victims and members of the medical community believe long overdue, the FDA also announced it is considering lowering its limits for leachable lead in dinnerware. Advocates believe current FDA tolerances are contradictory. They say the current limits don`t take into account that with regular use, dinnerware that just barely passes FDA standards can be deadly, spiking the user`s food or drink with repeated doses of lead that slowly build up in the body.

”This is a serious problem neither the public nor physicians have paid much attention to,” says Dr. Richard Wedeen, associate chief of staff for research and development at the Veterans Administration Medical Center in East Orange, N.J., a professor of medicine at the New Jersey Medical School and a specialist in and author on the topic of lead poisoning. ”And people who have the problem don`t know it,” he continues.

Although Wedeen concedes that Americans are exposed to less lead in the environment than in past decades, thanks to latex paints and lead-free gasoline, he believes ”sporadic exposure from exceptional sources” such as improperly made ceramic dinnerware can cause physiological damage.

Hypertension, heart and kidney damage, stroke, aggressiveness, depression and a lower IQ in children are some of the long-term effects of lead poisoning. Because doctors often have no reason to suspect lead as the source of any one of these conditions, victims are frequently misdiagnosed and treated for the symptoms and not the real cause of their illness, according to Wedeen, who believes future studies of kidney dialysis patients in the U.S. will show 5 percent are diseased because of lead intoxication.

The extent of dinnerware-related lead poisoning surfaced last year when products from two reputable companies were found to release potentially lethal amounts of lead.

In May, 1986, Williams-Sonoma, a mail-order retailer that also operates 44 stores across the country, recalled 16,000 Spanish-made earthenware cazuela cooking pans. Two months later, the company recalled 1,500 wine jugs also made in Spain.

In September, Pier I Imports recalled about 2,500 yellow Italian-made pitchers. In October, 3,300 blue pitchers made by the same factory were recalled. Of the pitchers that were tested, lead levels varied from just slightly over FDA-prescribed safe limits up to more than 10 times the allowable limit, according to an FDA official in Texas, where the 365-store chain is headquartered.

What`s startling about these cases is that all 20,000 of these products passed through both the quality controls of the individual companies and the FDA`s inspection process without being stopped.

Don Wallace believes there are perhaps another 5 million pieces of noxious earthenware on the market today.

Sheer logistics dictate that there will be a certain amount of poisonous pottery lurking in retail stores. Richard Ronk, deputy director of the FDA`s Center for Food Safety, says the FDA simply does not have the manpower to test every piece of earthenware imported into this country. The number, size and value of shipments have skyrocketed in the last 10 years. Ronk estimates that about 500 million pieces of earthenware are imported every year. Of that, he says, the FDA can test only 1 percent.

Inspection efforts generally focus on those countries with records of poor conformity with FDA standards. Mexico, the People`s Republic of China and Hong Kong are on the FDA`s most-closely-watched list. Earthenware brought back by tourists or hand carried back to the United States by small retailers returning from buying trips obviously bypasses all FDA testing. Imported and domestically produced ware collected and exchanged at flea markets, art fairs and garage sales also misses FDA controls. Such items could be faulty if made before the early 1970s, when FDA standards for dinnerware were first enacted. Importers and retailers also have no fail-safe way to ensure that every piece of dinnerware they buy will conform to FDA standards. Before contracting with the overseas factories that later produced the faulty dinnerware, Williams-Sonoma and Pier I sampled the products for lead contamination. Initial pieces passed inspection. Somewhere along the way, though, the quality standards at these factories lapsed and unsafe dinnerware was produced and packed for shipment along with perfectly safe pieces.

”Other than constant surveillance and testing, there is no way of checking every single piece,” says Chuck Williams, president of San Francisco-based Williams-Sonoma. ”The only thing we can do is let these manufacturers know we cannot have merchandise that has too much lead in it.” It`s easy to see how problems can arise. Small overseas manufacturers are eager to land an account with U.S. retailers and often agree to produce beyond their capabilities. They contract the workload out to other local factories, which may not maintain the tight quality controls originally agreed upon with the U.S. retailer. All it takes is for the oven temperature to drop below a certain degree–even temporarily–for lethal earthenware to be produced.

Lead is a common component in dinnerware. It is used in glazes to achieve vibrant surface colors. Unlike stoneware and fine bone china, earthenware can be fired at low temperatures. If a lead glaze is being used, though, the earthenware must be fired at a high enough temperature to assure the lead`s stability. Underfiring can later result in the release of lead.

Along with underfiring, the addition of certain other substances to a lead glaze can chemically imbalance the lead and make it more likely to leach. Copper is one of these substances and is frequently used by Mexican potters to create a green-colored glaze.

Storing or serving acidic juices, coffee and vinegar in improperly made earthenware triggers the release of lead. These liquids literally draw the lead out of the earthenware and absorb it. Repeated scouring and placement of faulty crockery in the dishwasher breaks down the glaze over a period of time and also quickens the leaching process.

Don and Fran Wallace know that now. They drank from their favorite Italian-made coffee cups every day. They washed them in the dishwasher every day, and once a week Don vigorously scrubbed out the stains. But when the two of them almost simultaneously developed a mystery disease that manifested itself in different symptoms in each of them, neither the Wallaces nor their doctors had any clue that they were intoxicated with lead or that these coffee cups were the source of the poison.

Both were misdiagnosed and mistreated for more than three years. Their symptoms included weight loss, sleeplessness, pain and weakness in the legs, loss of wrist strength, abdominal cramping and diarrhea. Don`s behavior also changed. He became irritable and aggressive, which, he says, influenced his decision to retire early from his Air Force career.

Fran was diagnosed as suffering from porphyria, a rare hereditary enzyme disorder for which there is no cure, but whose symptoms mimic those of lead intoxication. Don was diagnosed as having a degenerative disc in his back and had surgery on both of his wrists to relieve what doctors believed to be compression on the median nerves.

It wasn`t until Fran lay near death in the hospital that Don, despite his own failing health, turned super sleuth and combed medical texts for answers. He solved the mystery from one anomoly in both of their cases. Both had a sudden, unexplained onset of anemia–a classic, textbook symptom of lead poisoning.

After persuading doctors to test them for heavy metals, Don`s suspicions were confirmed. The two underwent a treatment program to extract the lead from their bodies, and it appears that their nightmare is over . . . at least for now. Lead-related health complications may haunt them in years to come.

The Wallaces had no reason to suspect their dinnerware was faulty. No one does. Faulty ware doesn`t look any different from safe ware.

Not everyone believes faulty earthenware is a significant source of lead or a widespread health problem.

Richard Ronk at the FDA says, ”Most of us break our dishes before they could be a problem.”

A spokesperson for the Chicago Department of Health says other hidden souces of lead are a more likely danger than faulty dinnerware. Piping, particularly in older homes, can release lead into a family`s water supply. Also, the danger from lead paints is not erased, as many believe, if covered over with latex paints. According to the spokesperson, if the latex paint chips, the lead paint underneath becomes readly available for children to eat. The FDA, medical community and Don and Fran Wallace advise consumers not to use any tableware they believe may be faulty for storing or serving food or liquids. Instead, use these items for decorative purposes.

Ronk concludes: ”The problem will continue as long as lead glazes are used.”

THE PROBLEM HAS A PAST

Lead intoxication isn`t a new phenomenon. Researchers believe it has been a hidden health hazard for centuries.

Some consider lead to have significantly contributed to the fall of the Roman Empire. The Roman aristocracy–who drank wine stored in lead-glazed vessels–was plagued by sterility and mental disorders. Gout, a digestive disorder prevalent in Europe for centuries, also may have been lead induced and not solely a consequence of overindulgence. Cookware and tableware were made from lead pewter during this period. And, finally, it is believed that early Americans were poisoned by cider made in local stills with crude machinery that leached lead.

PROTECTING YOURSELF FROM LEAD IN DISHES

Although the human eye cannot detect the difference between safe and unsafe earthenware, there are precautions the consumer can take to help diminish the chance of coming in contact with lead-leaching ware.

First, it is important to note that most problems occur with imported earthenware. For the most part, domestically produced goods meet Food and Drug Administration standards. It`s also important to note that there is lead-free dinnerware. There are glazes that do not contain lead, and they`re available on the market today.

Here are some additional tips:

— Ask manufacturers or retail stores for assurance that ceramic ware has been tested for lead.

— If you suspect your dinnerware is faulty, stop using it immediately. Use it for decorative purposes only, and consider having it tested. The U.S. Potters Association, 518 Market St., East Liverpool, Ohio 43920, will send a list of laboratories it has certified for lead testing. This can be costly, though, especially if you have many items to be tested. Costs for the testing, which is not destructive, will average from $15 to $35 a piece plus return postage.

— Don Wallace, a victim of lead poisoning and now an activist for promoting public awareness of the problem, holds the patent to a home lead test kit. A single kit costing $24.50 can test more than 100 items. The kit comes with directions, test solution and a questionnaire to which Wallace requests a reply for his own research. Distilled white vinegar is the only ingredient the consumer needs to supply. To receive the kit, send a check to Frandon Enterprises Inc., 511 N. 48th St., Seattle, Wash. 98103.

— Don`t store acidic foods or liquids in ceramic ware of unknown safety. This includes juices, coffee, cider, white wine, spaghetti sauce, sauerkraut, pickles and salad dressing. Glass and plastic are the better choices for storage.

— Be especially careful of vibrantly colored earthenware. These items often have high lead contents.

— Be careful with ceramic ware bought at flea markets and garage sales or inherited from relatives. Ware produced before the 1970s predates current safety standards. This includes products made in the United States.

— When buying pottery from handicraft operations in the United States or abroad, ask whether lead glazes have been used. Where there is any doubt, reserve the pottery for decorative purposes only.

— Be somewhat wary of ceramics made in Mexico, Hong Kong and the People`s Republic of China. These countries have high rates of violation.

— Don`t eat off the same plate or drink from the same cup every day.

— If you think you have lead poisoning, contact your doctor. Be aware that unless the exposure was recent, blood lead tests may not indicate the accurate amount of lead absorbed in the body. Bone lead tests are more definitive, according to Dr. Richard Wedeen, associate chief of staff for research and development at the Veterans Administration Medical Center in East Orange, N.J., a professor of medicine at the New Jersey Medical School and a specialist in and author on the topic of lead poisoning.

HOW RETAILERS ARE MAKING SURE THE EARTHENWARE THEY SELL IS SAFE

Major housewares retailers in Chicagoland recognize the hazard of lead-leaching earthenware. Following is a review of their efforts to provide safe products:

Since last year when several of their products were found to leach excessive amounts of lead, both Williams-Sonoma and Pier I Imports say thay have become more cautious.

Williams-Sonoma, a prominent mail-order retailer that also operates 44 stores across the country, now holds its overseas agents responsible for ensuring that factories comply with the standards prescribed by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. A written document from vendors stating their compliance must be submitted to the company, and as products enter the U.S., Williams-Sonoma spot-checks shipments along with the FDA.

Pier I Imports, a 365-store chain, has hired independent laboratories to check its products. And, to warn the public if certain products are intended for decorative use only, Pier I is asking its vendors to carve that message right into the product mold instead of using stick-on labels that can peel off easily.

Gordon Segal, president of Crate & Barrel, says lead has been ”an issue” in the housewares industry for a long time and that Crate & Barrel has been testing its products for years. He says samples of new products initially are tested for leaching problems, and subsequent shipments are spot-checked every six months. He adds that all Crate & Barrel earthenware is functional;

none is strictly decorative.

Don Kaufmann, general merchandise manager of Waccamaw Pottery, says his company deals primarily with major overseas factories that maintain strict quality controls that conform to FDA standards. Samples of products from lesser-known factories are sent back to the U.S. for testing, he says, and if there are any questions or doubts, Waccamaw hires an international testing company to observe and monitor production. Waccamaw is based in Myrtle Beach, S.C., and operates nine stores. The Chicagoland store in suburban Rolling Meadows is the company`s only Midwestern outlet.

Kiki Pagodus, assistant buyer for housewares at Carson Pirie Scott & Co., says Carson`s has ”never had any problems” with lead-leaching earthenware. She says all earthenware is bought from domestic suppliers except during the holiday season, when the stores stock Christmas plates from Germany. (Note:

The FDA acknowledges that imports are the primary source of the problem. Domestic goods in current production have a very low incidence of dangerous lead release.)

Patrick Barker, decorative buyer for Neiman-Marcus, also says no cases of faulty dinnerware have been reported to the company. He says Neiman-Marcus monitors quality standards through its network of overseas offices. People at these offices negotiate standards with the various factories and test sample products. According to Barker, on occasion vendors have had to reformulate their glazes to make them comply to the standards. And, he says, if any products are intended for decorative use only, they are clearly marked.

Finally, a spokesperson for Marshall Field`s says the company ”is checking into the matter” and that no problems have been reported with any of its merchandise. According to the spokesperson, Field`s ”relies heavily on the reputation of its vendors and their assurance that there are no problems.”