When I am asked how to broil or grill sweetbreads, I give the directions with delight, because sweetbreads–which can be ordered from most butchers
–are a favorite of mine.
Although sweetbreads have an uncommonly fine texture and a rich, almost buttery flavor, they taste a bit bland. To give them piquancy, cooks should use herbs or spices. You might also cook them on an outdoor grill, for a lightly charred flavor.
I brushed sweetbreads with mustard and, after they were cooked, served them with a sauce diable, a deviled sauce, and sauteed potatoes.
GRILLED SWEETBREADS
Four servings
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes
1 1/2 pounds sweetbreads
Salt to taste if desired
1 teaspoon whole peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon dried thyme
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard, preferably grainy
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
Sauce diable, recipe follows
1. Put sweetbreads in a saucepan and add water to cover, salt, peppercorns, bay leaf and thyme. Bring to boil and simmer 5 minutes. Drain immediately.
2. Cut sweetbreads crosswise into slices 1/2 inch thick (slices will be irregular in shape and size). Place a wire rack on a flat surface and cover it with paper towels. Arrange sweetbread slices in one layer on the towels. Cover with a second wire rack. Cover top rack with weights. Let stand at least 10 minutes.
3. Remove sweetbreads and put in a dish. Sprinkle with oil to coat all over. Brush with mustard and sprinkle with rosemary.
4. Sweetbreads may be cooked under a broiler or on a charcoal or gas grill. Preheat broiler or grill. If broiler is used, put sweetbreads on a baking dish and place about 4 inches from heat. Leave broiler door slightly ajar and cook 5 minutes. Turn sweetbreads over and put back under the broiler, again leaving door slightly open. Broil 4 minutes more.
5. If sweetbreads are to be cooked on a charcoal or gas grill, preheat grill to high. Place sweetbreads on grill and leave the lid partly open. Cook 5 minutes on one side; turn over and cook 4 minutes more. Serve with sauce diable.
SAUCE DIABLE
1/2 cups
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
3 tablespoons finely chopped onion
2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
1 tablespoon butter
3/4 cup fresh or canned chicken broth
2 teaspoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Salt to taste if desired
Freshly ground pepper to taste
1. In a saucepan combine onion, vinegar and butter. Bring to boil and cook until vinegar is reduced by half.
2. Meanwhile, combine broth and tomato paste in a bowl and stir to dissolve tomato paste. Add this to the onion mixture. Add mustard,
Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. Bring to boil and cook 3 to 4 minutes, or until reduced to 1/2 cup.
SAUTEED POTATOES
Four servings
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes
10 red, waxy new potatoes, about 1 1/2 pounds, well scrubbed
6 tablespoons corn, peanut or vegetable oil
Salt to taste if desired
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon finely minced garlic
Freshly ground pepper to taste
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1. Cut potatoes into thinnest possible slices. It is best to do this with a food processor with a 1 mm. slicer (a mandoline can be used). There should be about 6 cups. Drop slices into a basin of cold water.
2. Drain potatoes; pat dry on a towel.
3. Heat oil in a wide nonstick skillet. Add potatoes and cook, shaking so they cook evenly, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and continue cooking until browned, about 10 minutes. Pour off oil. Add butter and sprinkle with garlic and pepper. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.
