Although Americans gradually are becoming acquainted with new species of fish, there has been a reluctance to experiment in cooking them.
In this country`s restaurants and retail stores, the overwhelming majority of fresh fish sold is sold off the bone as fillets. For upscale restaurants, grilling has become the fashionable method of cooking. Firm-fleshed fish such as swordfish, tuna and halibut are prepared in much the same manner as beefsteak and served with fragrant or highly seasoned butters, butter sauces, or relishes. Overall, frying and broiling are the prevalent forms of fish preparation. In homes, baking, pan-frying and broiling lead the way.
Consumers generally fail to take advantage of lower per-pound prices for fish still on the bone. They also often fail to realize that there is a trade- off between added flavor and potential health benefits in some popular methods of fish preparation, notably frying, and in using butter-and cream- rich classic sauces.
Whole fish may be purchased at markets where there is a fish monger on duty. Ask that the fish be gutted, scaled and the fins snipped off. Have the head and tail left intact. Fish bones, available at the same locations
(usually at no charge) are the basis for fish stock.
Fish stock: This is the easiest and quickest to make of all stocks. Ask for frames or heads from non-fatty fish such as the sole family, snapper, whitefish. Wash and place them in a pot with chopped carrots, onions, a bouquet garni and water to cover. Bring to a boil, skim the surface, and simmer for no more than 30 minutes. Strain and use at once or freeze. Fish stock may be made stronger by reducing 25 to 50 percent after it has been strained.
FISH PREPARATIONS
Here is a brief guide to fish preparation methods available to home cooks, from the easiest to the most difficult. Also, a trio of sauces. A basic book that will prove a worthwhile investment for experienced as well as novice fish cooks is ”The Complete Fish Cookbook” by Dan and Inez Morris
(Macmillan, $22.50), revised and updated in 1986. A new book with some interesting recipes is Ann Clark`s Fabulous Fish (New American Library, $17.95).
First, some widely accepted guidelines:
– As a rule of thumb, calculate 10 minutes per inch of thickness (or width of a whole fish), measured at the thickest point, when cooking fish by any method.
– Cook fish, except frozen fillets, at room temperature in preheated ovens or pans. Double the normal cooking time for frozen fillets.
– For saute cooking or pan-frying use non-stick pans. They not only will reduce sticking, but permit the use of less oil or fat than is needed in standard pans.
– ”Fishy” odors do not emanate from fresh fish. Burned or too frequently recycled cooking oil is a more probable cause. Do not allow oil to smoke and be sure to strain any oil you plan to reserve for further use. Once used for fish, oil should not be used for other foods.
– Now, a revisionist theory: Do not wait until fish flakes to consider it cooked. By the time most fish flakes, especially fillet cuts, it is overcooked. Those who like fish cooked only to medium (still moist and slightly pink at the center), will stop the process when the flesh has turned opaque and is just firm to the touch. Tuna and salmon steaks sometimes are cooked as rare as beefsteaks.
COOKING METHODS
Microwave: In her Tribune microwave cooking column, Patricia Tennison recommends placing fillets on a plate (with thickest portion to the outside), covering tightly with plastic wrap, and cooking on high (100 percent power)
for 3 to 4 minutes until just opaque and firm to the touch. The fillets may be marinated on the same plate before cooking.
Steaming for fillets, small whole fish: You may buy Oriental steaming baskets and use them with a wok, use an occidental fish steamer or improvise with a colander or roasting rack and a pot. In any case, the only essential is that the fish be kept above the boiling liquid and as little steam as possible escape from the container. The liquid can be water, stock or flavored broth. You may want to lightly oil the steamer rack or line the part where the fish will lie with lettuce leaves. Bring the liquid to a boil, add the steamer rack and fish, cover the basket, and count down the requisite time. Steam will cook faster than boiling water, but for thin fillets, the time difference is minimal. The fish will be very moist and tender.
Baking: For fillets, whole fish, stuffed fish, fish steaks: Heat oven to 375 degrees. Wash and dry fish. Lightly oil a baking pan. Dust the fillets or steaks with seasoned flour. Lightly coat cleaned whole fish with oil or basting sauce. Arrange fillets or steaks in a single layer on a pan or a rack. Cook by the 10-minutes-per-inch formula. Turn fillets or steaks once and begin to test for doneness when three-quarters of the cooking time has elapsed. Increase cooking time by 50 percent for whole, stuffed fish.
Oven roasting: For fillets, whole fish, fish steaks. This method could be called high-temperature baking. Heat oven to 500 degrees. Prepare fish as above, then cook it in a pan on a rack placed in the top third of the oven. You will have to track the cooking carefully. Expect about a 25 percent savings in time, but the real reason to cook this way is for texture. You should obtain a crispy surface with a very moist interior. Try cooking 1- to 1 1/2-pound lobsters by this method. Wash them, place them on a baking sheet, and roast 12 to 15 minutes.
Broiling: For fillets, split whole fish and steaks, especially fatty fish such as salmon, swordfish, tuna, and halibut. Choose cuts from 1/2-inch to 1 1/2-inches thick. Preheat oven. Lightly oil fish and the portion of broiler rack on which fish will lie. If cooking a fillet or split fish, leave skin on and cook skin side down without turning. Turn steaks or pieces more than 3/4- inch-thick once. The thicker the fish, the farther from the heat it should cook. The range is from 2 to 5 inches. This method takes split-second timing. Remove fish from oven as soon as it is done.
Grilling: For steaks, whole fish, split whole fish, kebabs. In general, grilling fish is similar to grilling beefsteak, although the fish is frailer and may fall apart if over-handled. You will need less coal. A hinged grill
(well oiled) is highly recommended for cooking any but the firmest-flesh fish steaks. Follow standard directions for building fire and spreading coals. Lightly oil the fish and plan to baste during cooking with oil, a basting sauce or barbecue sauce. Cook about 4 inches from the flame.
Poaching: Fillets, steaks, whole fish, whole stuffed fish. The complexity here is getting the fish in and out of the liquid (water, stock or court bouillon). If you own a fish poacher with a rack, the chore becomes much easier. In any event, be sure the fish will fit in the cooking utensil before beginning the procedure. Professional cooks often wrap whole fish in cheesecloth before poaching, both to keep it together and to make extraction from the bath easier. (You must tie the ends of the cheesecloth to the handles of the pot or somehow keep them out of the liquid.) Whole fish should be placed in cold liquid. Steaks and fillet may be lowered into hot liquid. In either case, the liquid should never boil. This will cause the fish to crack and toughen the flesh.
A note on poaching liquids. The liquid in which fish poaches really does not matter greatly. Water will do. Add some vegetables (especially carrots and leeks, shallots or onion) to water, a bouquet garni, peppercorns, a little salt and-if you will-some wine, bring to a boil, cook for half-an-hour and you have created a court bouillon. Making fish stock was described above. Some chefs poach fillets in a mixture of chicken broth and fish stock.
Pan-frying: For fillets, steaks. Select a skillet large enough to hold the fish pieces comfortably in a single layer. If crowded together, fish pieces will not fry properly. Dry the fish thoroughly. Prepare a coating. (Dip the fish pieces in flour, then in egg beaten with a little water and finally bread, cracker or cereal crumbs. Let sit 5 minutes before cooking.)
Alternatively, just before cooking dust the fish in flour (seasoned, if you like, with salt, pepper and a spice or herb of choice). Pour vegetable oil into the pan to a depth of about 1/8-inch. Heat through the sizzle stage, then immediately add fish before oil begins to smoke. When coating is nicely browned, turn the pieces and cook until coating is nicely colored.
Deep Frying: Nuggets, fingers, small fillets, small whole fish. This is the most difficult method of cooking fish and, with the cost of oil, the most expensive for the home cook. Prepare a tempura or beer batter (or a coating similar to the one above.) Heat oil to 375 degrees. While it is heating, apply batter or coating. Fry pieces a few at a time so fryer does not become crowded and temperature stays as constant as possible. Drain on paper towels and keep warm. Season as desired.
SAUCES FOR FISH
COMPOSED BUTTER
About 12 servings
Preparation time: 5 minutes
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, preferably unsalted
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley, or basil or cilantro (coriander)
1 tablespoon minced shallots
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
Salt, white peppper to taste
1. Let butter soften, then place it in the bowl. Add the parsley, shallots, lemon juice, salt and pepper and beat with a whisk or electric mixer until thoroughly combined.
2. Use a rubber spatula to transfer butter to a sheet of plastic wrap. Form into a log shape and wrap tightly. Refrigerate until firm, or freeze for up to 1 month.
3. Cut off 1 tablespoon rounds and serve on broiled, baked, poached or grilled fish.
ORIENTAL SAUCE
Four to six servings
Preparation time: 5 minutes
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar, or distilled white vinegar
1 teaspoon minced peeled ginger
1 tablespoon minced green portion of a green onion
5 tablespoons vegetable oil
1. In a small bowl, combine soy sauce, vinegar, ginger and green onion. Beat in oil.
2. Spoon over steamed, broiled, oven-roasted or microwave-cooked fish.
CALIFORNIA SALSA
About 1 1/2 cups
Preparation time: 10 minutes
2 large fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded, chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons seeded, finely chopped jalapeno pepper
1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro (coriander)
1/2 small onion, red preferred, finely chopped
1 small clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1. In a bowl, combine tomatoes, jalapeno, cilantro, onion, garlic, lemon juice and salt. Stir well, taste and adjust seasoning as desired.
2. Cover and refrigerate until 20 minutes before serving. Salsa will keep for three days.
3. Pass in a sauceboat when serving grilled, broiled, oven-roasted, pan-fried or deep-fried fish.
Use these flavored crumbs sprinkled over cooked fish for added crunch and flavor.
HERBED BREAD CRUMBS
About 1/2 cup
Preparation time: 5 minutes
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup Japanese bread crumbs, see note
Finely grated rind of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons minced parsley
1 teaspoon minced fresh basil, dill or tarragon
1. Melt butter in small nonstick skillet. Add bread crumbs. Cook and stir until crumbs are golden and crisp, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in remaining ingredients. Sprinkle over cooked fish.
Note: Japanese bread crumbs are available at most Oriental markets.
