Weekend Cook columnist Abby Mandel said the following is a treasured favorite, one she turns to time and again when the comforts of old-fashioned goodness beckon.
PEAR CUSTARD KUCHEN
Eight servings
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Baking time: 60 to 70 minutes
Crust:
1 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, chilled, cut in 6 pieces
3 tablespoons each: sour cream, light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon each: freshly grated nutmeg, salt
Filling:
3 large ripe Bartlett or Bosc pears (8 ounces each)
3 large egg yolks
1 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/3 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1. Fifteen minutes before baking, place rack in center of oven and preheat to 375 degrees. Butter a 9-inch, 1 1/2-inch-deep tart pan with a removable bottom.
2. For the crust, mix the flour, butter, sour cream, 1 tablespoon brown sugar, ginger, nutmeg and salt in a food processor or with a pastry blender until the butter is the size of peas. Transfer all but 1/2 cup of the mixture to the tart pan and pat neatly into the bottom and up sides of pan. Stir 2 tablespoons brown sugar into the remaining crust mixture and refrigerate while you bake the shaped crust.
3. Bake the crust until it is very lightly browned, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and reduce the temperature to 350 degrees.
4. For the filling, peel the pears, halve them lengthwise and remove the core. Cut each half crosswise into 3/8-inch slices, keeping the shape of the pear intact. Slide a metal spatula under each sliced half and transfer it to the crust, placing five of them with the narrow tips pointing to the center. Place the sixth half in the center.
5. Mix the egg yolks, granulated sugar, flour, sour cream and vanilla until smooth and pour between the pears. Sprinkle the reserved crumb mixture over the top. Bake until the custard is set, from 40 to 50 minutes, depending on how juicy the pears are. Cool for 10 minutes, then remove the sides from the pan. Serve hot or at room temperature.
The following recipe, which matches Chinese ingredients with Western techniques and Western ingredients with Chinese techniques, is adapted from the recently published ”Nouvelle Chinese Cooking,” by Karen Lee (Macmillan, $19.95).
LONG BEAN, ROASTED PEPPER AND GOAT CHEESE SALAD
Five servings
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
1/2 recipe Hunan roasted peppers, recipe follows
1/2 pound Chinese long beans or green beans
1/4 cup unhulled sesame seeds
1 cylinder (7 ounces) goat cheese
1 1/2 tablespoons Chinese red vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon each: Dijon mustard, minced garlic
3 tablespoons corn oil
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Make the roasted peppers. Steam the long beans 3 to 4 minutes, or until they have softened but still have some crunch. Remove and plunge the beans into a bowl of ice-cold water for about a minute, or until they cool. Drain them in a colander set over a bowl. After the beans are dry, remove the stem ends.
2. Place a wok over high heat about 1 minute, or until it smokes. Add the sesame seeds. Turn the heat to low and dry-cook them 3 to 5 minutes, or until they brown. Empty sesame seeds onto a plate.
3. Using unwaxed dental floss, cut the goat cheese into 4 or 5 equal rounds. Dip the rounds into the sesame seeds, coating them on both sides.
4. Make the dressing by mixing together the vinegar, salt and mustard. Stir until the salt is dissolved; then add the garlic, corn oil, olive oil and black pepper. Continue to mix until thickened slightly.
5. Choose a flat serving dish, preferably white. Arrange the long beans to form a border. Scatter the roasted peppers on top of the beans. Place the sesame-coated cheese rounds in an overlapping pattern in the center of the serving dish. Spoon the dressing over the long beans and peppers. Serve at room temperature.
HUNAN ROASTED PEPPERS
Six servings
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Standing time: 2 hours
Cooking time: 4 to 5 minutes
1 1/2 pounds sweet peppers (red, green and yellow), triangle-cut, about 4 cups
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 teaspoon bottled chili paste, or homemade hot sauce, recipe follows
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons peanut oil
1. Place peppers on cookie sheet and sprinkle with salt. Cover with paper towels, then put a weight over the towels. Let stand at least 2 hours. Drain and dry the peppers very well.
2. Make the seasoning sauce by mixing together the soy sauce, hot sauce, vinegar and sugar. Stir until well combined.
3. Place a wok over high heat for about 1 minute, or until it smokes. Add the peanut oil; heat until hot but not smoking.
4. Add the peppers; stir-fry 4 to 5 minutes, pressing down on them with a spatula to aid the scorching. If they are scorching too fast, reduce the heat. 5. Add seasoning sauce; stir-fry until all the liquid is absorbed. Empty into a serving dish. Serve at room temperature.
HOT SAUCE
Makes 1 1/3 cups
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes
1 1/4 cups peanut oil
1/3 cup crushed dried chili peppers
1/4 cup minced garlic
1 1/2 cups finely diced red sweet peppers
1/2 cup finely diced green peppers
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 of a 7-ounce jar of roasted peppers
1 tablespoon each: red wine vinegar, Oriental sesame oil
1. Place a 12-inch wok over high heat for about 1 minute or until it smokes. Pour in 1 cup of the oil. Turn the heat to medium and allow the oil to reach 350 degrees. It is very important the oil temperature is accurate, to prevent burning. Once it reaches 350 degrees, remove wok from heat and let stand 1 minute.
2. Add the crushed chili pepper to the wok all at once. Stir briefly. Allow the oil to cool in the wok. Set aside 3/4 cup of the oil and place remainder in a covered glass jar and refrigerate.
3. Place wok over high heat for about 1 minute, or until it smokes. Add remaining peanut oil. Turn the heat to low and heat for a few seconds. Add the garlic and saute until it has lightly browned. Add the red sweet peppers and the green bell peppers. Turn the heat to high. Stir-fry about 2 minutes. Add the sugar and turn the heat to medium, continuing to cook another 8 to 10 minutes or until the peppers have softened and are thoroughly cooked. Turn off heat.
4. Using the on-and-off technique, puree the roasted peppers with their juice in a food processor. Add them to the wok, along with the chili oil, vinegar and sesame oil. Stir until well combined. Allow the sauce to cool;
place it in small glass jars with tight-fitting lids and refrigerate up to 6 months.
The one new cookbook we think will surely become dog-eared and splattered in the kitchen is ”The Breakfast Book” (Knopf, $17.95), a small attractive cookbook by veteran cookbook author Marion Cunningham. The book is the source of these delightful breakfast nuggets.
LEMON YOGURT MUFFINS
About 1 dozen
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Baking time: 15 minutes
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons honey
2 eggs
1 1/4 cups plain yogurt
1/4 cup ( 1/2 stick) butter, melted
1 tablespoon grated lemon rind
Lemon syrup:
1/3 cup lemon juice
1/3 cup sugar
3 tablespoons water
1. Heat oven to 375 degrees and butter the muffin tins.
2. In a small mixing bowl, stir and toss together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In a larger bowl, combine the sugar, honey, eggs, yogurt, melted butter and lemon rind and beat until thoroughly mixed. Add the combined dry ingredients and beat just until blended.
3. Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tins, filling each cup about two-thirds full. These should bake about 15 minutes, or until the tops are delicately browned and a toothpick or straw inserted into the center of a muffin comes out clean.
4. While the muffins bake, prepare the syrup. Combine the lemon juice, sugar and water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, boil 1 minute, then set aside.
5. When the muffins are done, remove the pan from the oven and gently poke the top of each muffin two or three times with a fork. Drizzle about 2 teaspoons of the syrup over each hot muffin, letting it run over the top and around the edge. Let cool in the pans for a few minutes, then remove and serve warm.
Food Guide`s ”Microwave Cooking” columnist Patricia Tennison, author of ”Glorious Vegetables in the Microwave” (Contemporary, $17.95) created this delicate soup recipe that`s made in the microwave oven.
As in conventional cooking, flavors will heighten if the soup is made ahead then reheated. If making the soup ahead, reduce the fresh ginger to 1/2 teaspoon. Taste, and add more ginger if needed. To add more, put ginger and 1/4 cup soup broth in a cup and microwave on high for 30 seconds. Return mixture to soup.
MUSHROOM-GINGER SOUP
Three cups
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Microwave cooking time: 12 to 16 minutes
1/2 pound fresh mushrooms, wiped clean, sliced very thin
1/2 cup minced onions
1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
1 large carrot, grated
2 cups beef stock or broth
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
Salt to taste (omit with canned broth)
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro (coriander)
2 green onions, white and first 2 inches of green, chopped
1. Put mushrooms, onions, ginger and carrot in 3-quart microwave-proof casserole. Cover with plastic wrap. Microwave on high (100 percent power), stirring twice, until mushrooms are tender and have released juices, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Stir in beef stock. Cover with plastic wrap. Microwave on high until simmering, 4 to 6 minutes. Stir in nutmeg, salt to taste and pepper. Sprinkle with cilantro and green onions. Serve.
Note: Soup also can be served chilled. Refrigerate, covered, at least 3 hours.
The following recipe comes from ”Authentic Mexican: Regional Cooking from the Heart of Mexico” (Morrow, $24.95), an exceptional cookbook written by Rick Bayless with Deann Groen Bayless. The Bayless` are co-owners of Frontera Grill, 445 N. Clark St., where one can sample this dish and other traditional Mexican dishes.
Serve this stew-like pork dish with crusty rolls, a salad, beer, chianti or zinfandel and a flan (custard) for dessert.
PORK WITH SMOKY TOMATO SAUCE, POTATOES AND AVOCADO
(TINGA POBLANO)
Four servings
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour 10 minutes
1 pound lean, boneless pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 teaspoon mixed dried herbs (such as marjoram and thyme)
3 bay leaves
2 medium (about 10 ounces total) boiling potatoes, quartered
1 1/2 pounds (about 3 medium-large) ripe tomatoes, roasted or boiled, peeled, cored, or 1 can (28 ounces) tomatoes, drained
4 ounces chorizo sausage, removed from casing
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 medium onion, diced
1 clove garlic, peeled, minced
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
2 canned chiles chipotles in adobo, seeded, thinly sliced
4 teaspoons of the adobo sauce from the can of chiles
Salt, about 1/2 teaspoon
Sugar, about 1/2 teaspoon
Garnish:
1 ripe, medium avocado, peeled, pitted, sliced
4 ounces Mexican queso fresco or other fresh cheese such as mild goat or farmer`s cheese or Muenster, cut into 8 pieces
A 1/4-inch slice of onion, broken into rings
1. Bring about 1 quart salted water to a boil in a medium-size saucepan;
add the pork; skim the grayish foam that rises to the top during the first few minutes of simmering, then add the herbs and bay leaves. Partly cover and simmer over medium heat until the meat is tender, about 50 minutes. (If there is time, let the meat cool in the broth.) Remove the meat, then strain the broth and spoon off all the fat that rises to the top; reserve 1 cup of the broth. When the meat is cool enough to handle, dry it on paper towels and break it into 3/4-inch pieces.
2. Boil the potatoes in salted water to cover until just tender, 12 to 15 minutes; drain, peel (if you want), then chop into 1/2-inch dice. Seed the tomatoes if you wish by cutting them in half crosswise and gently squeezing out the seeds; chop into 1/2-inch pieces. Fry the chorizo in the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-low heat until done, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally to break up any clumps. Remove, leaving as much fat as possible in the skillet.
3. Raise the heat to medium and add the onion and pork. Fry, stirring frequently, until well browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook 2 minutes.
4. Add the chopped tomatoes, oregano and chorizo; mix well and simmer 5 minutes. Stir in the potatoes, the reserved cup of broth, chipotle peppers and adobo sauce from the can. Simmer gently for 10 minutes to blend the flavors, then season with salt and sugar.
5. When it is time to serve, scoop the simmering mixture into a warm serving dish and decorate with alternating slices of avocado and fingers of cheese. Strew the top with onion rings and serve.
William Rice, The Tribune`s food and wine columnist, said that if you`re accustomed to pale beet soup, you`re in for a surprise. This is a borscht that Peter the Great would have conquered for. Rice`s creation tastes better if made ahead and reheated. He encourages cooks to exaggerate any or all of the ingredients, if desired. Multiply it, age it, freeze it. Borscht is very resilient. Serve it from the pot into generous-sized shallow soup bowls.
A WINTER BORSCHT
Eight to 10 servings
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Cooking time: 3 1/2 to 4 hours
2 pounds beef brisket or 4 pounds beef shank with bone
2 carrots, cut in chunks
1 medium onion, cut in chunks
1 bouquet garni made of 2 bay leaves, 1/2 teaspoon thyme, 1 rib celery with leaves and 5 sprigs parsley
2 quarts beef stock, or 4 cans (54 ounces total) beef broth plus 10 ounces cold water
1 cup diced carrots
1 cup diced onion
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 1/2 pounds fresh beets (about 2 1/4 pounds with tops), peeled and finely diced
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/2 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/3 cup tomato puree
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup chopped fresh dill or parsley
1 pound green cabbage, core removed and cut in small chunks
2 knockwurst, cut in small rounds
6 ounces ham, diced (optional)
1/4 cup brandy or bourbon (optional)
Accompaniments:
1 pint sour cream
1 cup chopped fresh dill
Bottled or freshly grated horseradish
2 small boiled or steamed potatoes per person
1. At least one day before serving, place the brisket in a large pot with carrot and onion chunks and bouquet garni. Cover with stock. Bring slowly to a boil. Spoon off scum that rises to the surface, partially cover pot and simmer for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, or until meat is tender.
2. Remove meat, cool, wrap and store in refrigerator. Strain stock, cool and refrigerate.
3. The next day, remove meat and stock from refrigerator.
4. In a large pot, cook diced carrots and onions in oil over low heat until soft. Add diced beets, vinegar, sugar, tomato puree, caraway, pepper, salt, dill and 1/2 cup of stock. Cover and simmer over low heat until beets are soft. (The smaller the dice, the less time the stubborn beets will require. Allow about an hour and then test.)
5. Meanwhile, dice the meat and prepare other remaining ingredients.
6. When the beets are tender, add meat, cabbage, knockwurst and optional ham and brandy. Add stock. (There should be six cups. If not, add additional broth or water to equal 6 cups.)
7. Cover pot and simmer for 1 hour, or until flavors have melded and cabbage is soft. Taste and adjust seasonings as desired. The borscht is now ready to be served, or can be cooled and stored in the refrigerator for up to three days. To keep longer, portion the borscht into several containers and freeze.
8. Serve in wide soup bowls. Pass accompaniments so guest may garnish as desired.
MUFFIN, SALAD RECIPES SHOW OFF WINNING WAYS
The following two recipes are from a home cook and a restaurant chef with one thing in common: They each won a recipe contest in the fall with dishes that were some of the best of the year.
The muffin recipe is from Chris Meier of Western Springs, who was one of the winners in the Old Graue Mill Corn Meal Baking Contest. The salad recipe is adapted from one prepared by David Jarvis, chef/co-owner of Melange restaurant in Wilmette, who won the title of best seafood chef in Illinois in the Chicago Fish House Seafood Challenge.
CHRIS MEIER`S DATE AND BACON MUFFINS
12 muffins
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Baking time: 20 minutes
1/4 cup butter
2 tablespoons sugar
1 egg
1 1/2 cups flour
1/2 cup corn meal
5 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup milk
1/2 cup cutup dates
4 strips bacon, fried, crumbled
Honey, optional
1. Cream butter and sugar. Add egg. Sift dry ingredients together and add alternately to butter mixture with milk. Fold in dates and bacon.
2. Bake in greased muffin tins at 400 degrees 20 to 25 minutes. Serve with honey, if you like.
DAVID JARVIS` FIELD SALAD WITH CHILLED MUSSELS
Four servings
Preparation time: 40 minutes
2 heads oak leaf lettuce
1 head Boston lettuce
1 Belgian endive, julienned
3 ounces arugula
1 pomegranate
Vinaigrette:
1 teaspoon dijon mustard
1 egg yolk
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 1/2 tablespoons red currant vinegar or red wine vinegar
Pinch salt, pepper
Sauce:
16 greenlip mussels
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 shallots, chopped
1/2 cup whipping cream
1/4 cup creme fraiche
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro (coriander)
1. Wash and prepare greens. Remove seeds from pomegranate. Set aside.
2. For vinaigrette, mix mustard and egg yolk in bowl. Add olive oil gradually. Thin with vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
3. Clean and scrub mussels. Steam in white wine with shallots until just opened. Remove mussels from shells and reserve on half-shells. Chill. Reduce liquid to a syrup. Add cream and creme fraiche gradually until sauce thickens. Whisk in butter, a little at a time. Add cilantro.
4. To assemble, toss greens with vinaigrette. Place on center of four plates. Sprinkle each with pomegranate seeds. Place four mussels around each salad plate. Spoon lukewarm sauce over the mussels and serve.
