There are more than 4,400 species of crabs, ranging from tiny pea crabs found inside the shells of mollusks-perhaps you`ve found one in a cooked mussel-to giants weighing up to 30 pounds, some with a leg span of more than 12 feet.
And they live everywhere: There are deep water crabs, beach crabs, fresh water crabs and land crabs, one species of which lives high in the mountains. They vary in other ways as well. Some crabs are hunters, others scavengers, some are omnivores, others vegetarians. One species enjoys coconuts, another breed prefers oysters.
Best of all, from our point of view, the majority of crabs are edible. And after shrimp, crab is the most popular shellfish, with the West Coast`s Dungeness crab the most sought, followed by the large Alaska King Crabs. But it is the East Coast`s blue crabs that offer us the most unique gastronomic experience. These soft-shell crabs are a treat found nowhere else in the world.
Some people believe the soft-shell crab is a special species. It is not. It can be any crab prepared just hours after it has molted from its shell, which it does three times a year. However, the delectable blue crabs found in the Chesapeake Bay and in the New Orleans area are the ones used for soft-shell eating. Also, these crabs were apparently the first to be eaten in this manner. In New Orleans, crayfish sometimes are eaten at this stage.
Today soft-shell crabs are available frozen all over the country, and luckily they freeze quite well. Now the only thing that would or could keep anyone from enjoying this treat is their own fear of trying something new.
THE MOLTING PROCESS
In order to grow, crabs-as well as lobsters-molt three times a year. The process is fascinating to watch. First, the ill-fitting shell tears a little. Then, slowly, a round, dark, balloon-like form crawls out, already a half-inch larger than it was. Soon a new, made-to-fit, hard shell begins to form. All crabs have soft shells during this brief transition period-just a few hours before the new shell hardens.
Obtaining soft-shell crabs is not easy. First, hard-shell crabs are caught and examined. If they are ”peelers” or green crabs, which is revealed by colored stripes on their back fins, it means they are within a day or two of shedding. They are checked four times a day because if not caught at the right moment their new shells may already have become too brittle to eat.
SELECTING SOFT-SHELL CRABS
The best season for soft-shell crabs is April through September. Hard-shell crabs are best July through December. Freshly caught soft-shell crabs may be kept alive for a day or so, refrigerated and kept on sea grass. Naturally, fresh soft-shell crabs are superior to frozen ones, but it is unlikely you`ll find fresh soft-shell crabs locally unless you live close to where they are raised. If so, look for crabs whose claws still are waving when poked. They should be translucent and very soft.
In New Orleans small, tender, soft-shell crabs often are referred to as
”buster crabs.” ”Paper shells” are soft-shell crabs whose shells have begun to harden again. I`ve sometimes been served this type in restaurants.
If you can find live soft-shell crabs, clean them just before eating. Ask the fish monger to do it for you if you are planning to take them home and cook them immediately. Otherwise, cleaning them yourself is an easy process.
CLEANING SOFT-SHELL CRABS
1. With scissors, cut across the crab just behind the eyes. Reach into the opening and remove the tan-gray sac, called a sand sack (actually, its the stomach).
2. Place the crab on its back, and pull up and cut off the ”apron.”
3. Turn the crab over and lift up the pointed flaps on each side. With your fingers, remove the grayish gills, which have a feathery appearance.
COOKING SOFT-SHELL CRABS
Like so many fish and shellfish, soft-shell crabs are simplicity themselves, a true natural convenience food. It would be difficult to spend more than a total of 10 minutes in preparation time-and it can be done in half that.
Soft-shell crabs can be sauteed or broiled in 5 to 7 minutes, deep fried in 3 to 5 minutes, or baked in 10 minutes. The usual home method is to saute them, which gives a soft, sweet result. In restaurants they are often deep fried, which results in a nice outer crispness to contrast with their inner softness.
SOFT-SHELL CRABS AMANDINE
Two to three servings
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
1/2 cup sliced almonds
6 soft-shell crabs, cleaned
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 tablespoons safflower oil
1/2 lemon, juiced (1 tablespoon)
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
1. Heat oven to 325 degrees. Bake almonds on a baking sheet until golden, about 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Pat the crabs dry with a paper towel. Mix the flour with the salt and pepper in a pie plate. Just before sauteing, turn each crab in the flour to coat it completely, then shake it gently to remove excess.
3. Heat the butter and oil in a wide skillet until very hot. Put in as many crabs as will fit in a single layer and saute about 2 to 3 minutes per side, until golden brown. With tongs, move crabs to a warmed plate. Saute the rest of the crabs, adding more butter if needed.
4. Add the almonds to the pan and stir over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the lemon juice to the pan and cook another minute. Pour over the crabs and garnish with parsley.
Note: Soft-shell crabs meuniere use the recipe above omitting the almonds. Meuniere simply means dusted with flour and sauted in butter. For soft-shell crabs with garlic, replace the almonds in the recipe above with 1 clove garlic, minced. When adding to the pan, saute 30 seconds then add the lemon juice.
In New Orleans they love to deep fry soft-shell crabs in order to get a crispness on the outside. Here is how it`s done. The cooking time will depend on the size of the crabs and the state of the oil. It takes longer in fresh oil to get the correct color. Because the crabs are instantly sealed in the hot oil, they are steaming inside and are not likely to overcook if it takes a few minutes longer.
NEW ORLEANS-STYLE FRIED SOFT-SHELL CRABS
Two to three servings
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Soaking time: 10 to 15 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
6 soft-shell crabs, cleaned
1 cup milk, about
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Lemon-butter sauce, recipe follows
1. Heat oil to 375 degrees. Rinse the crabs quickly and gently pat dry. Place in cold milk to cover for 10 to 15 minutes.
2. Mix the flour with the salt and peppers in a pie plate. Just before frying, turn each crab in the flour to coat it completely, then shake it gently to remove excess. Place on a platter side by side, do not let them overlap.
3. Fry one or two at a time, depending on size, until golden brown, from 6 to 10 minutes. Turn frequently. Drain well, then place on a dish lined with paper towels in a low oven until all the crabs are fried. Serve hot with a generous quantity of lemon-butter sauce (recipe follows).
LEMON-BUTTER SAUCE
About 1/2 cup sauce
Preparation time: 5 minutes
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
Pinch of salt (optional)
1. Melt the butter and cook just until it begins to turn brown. Remove the pan from the heat, add the lemon juice and mix thoroughly. Return to the heat and cook another minute, until nicely browned. Season to taste.
Amandine variation: Add 1/2 cup of sliced almonds to the butter as it initially cooks. When the almonds are golden brown, remove them with a slotted spoon and finish the sauce with the lemon juice. Put some almonds on the crabs and pour the sauce over.
Soft-shell crabs with lump crabmeat: Prepare soft-shells with the lemon-butter sauce as above. Saute 1/3 cup lump crabmeat in about 2 tablespoons butter for 4 to 5 minutes until just warmed through. Be careful not to break up the lumps. Place the crabs on heated plates, divide the warmed crabmeat in equal portions and spoon over the fried crabs. Pour the lemon-butter sauce over each portion.
Another New orleans favorite is to prepare the soft-shell crabs as for deep frying then saute them (about 3 minutes per side) and serve with bearnaise sauce.
