I am convinced that December plays host to more parties than all the other months combined. Anchored on either end by two major holidays, it`s the most festive time of year. Everyone is infused with a holiday spirit that bubbles over into parties. Even those who normally shy away from party-giving find themselves throwing a bash of their own.
A Christmas party can be so many things, from a trim-the-tree party, to caroling, to a black-tie gala to an informal cookie exchange. Selecting a theme for the party helps define the event, sets the tone and gives a format around which to plan the food and beverages. A country French theme is one I turn to when I want something that is a bit unexpected, different from most other holiday parties. It conveys a certain rustic charm and warmth, an air that is sophisticated and unpretentious at the same time.
The three recipes that follow are perfectly suited to the French country theme. The food is simple and charming yet festive enough for the holidays. All of it is easily prepared and can be made ahead of time. It is typically French, with one small and wonderfully worthy exception. Warm Brie cheese is served with big cheesey puffs that are generously freckled with coarse black peppercorns. That much is all very authentic. In an enthusiastic nod that embraces my love for a uniquely American food, I have added a tart and shimmering cranberry topping to the cheese.
Cornmeal is a uniquely American ingredient, too, but one that fascinates many French cooks. Here it is used as the primary ingredient in delicate little blini, thin pancakes that are more commonly made with buckwheat. They`re topped with smoked salmon and creme fraiche, the French equivalent of sour cream.
The salad is a mix of vegetables with a practical and attractive mode of serving. Three root vegetables and a sweet bell pepper are dressed with an herbed vinaigrette and tucked in tender lettuce leaves. Served as lettuce packets, the colorful julienned vegetables are easy to handle as finger food, ever so much neater to eat than if they are offered as a salad.
This is a sensational coupling of flavors, colors and textures that is very festive for the holidays. The creamy cheese, glazed with a tart, spiced cranberry relish, is served on pepper-flecked cheese puffs that are crisp and lighter than air.
CRANBERRY GLAZED BRIE WITH PEPPER CHEESE PUFFS
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Baking time: 40 to 50 minutes
Yield: 16 to 20 servings
Cheese puffs:
1 1/2 cups water
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon each: salt, coarse black pepper, see note
1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
6 large eggs
3/4 cup shredded Swiss cheese
Cranberry glaze:
3 cups cranberries
1/3 cup dried currants
3/4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1/3 cup water
1/8 teaspoon each: dry mustard, ground allspice, cardamom, cloves, ginger, crushed red pepper flakes
1 Brie cheese (about 2.2 pounds) 8-inches in diameter
Mint sprigs, fresh cranberries, for garnish
1. Fifteen minutes before baking the puffs, put 2 racks in center area of oven and heat to 425 degrees. Grease 2 large baking sheets.
2. For the puffs, combine water, butter, salt and pepper in a 2-quart pan and cook until butter is melted and water is simmering. Remove from heat, add flour and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until it forms a ball. Return to heat and cook, stirring constantly, until a film develops on the bottom of the pan, about 1 minute.
3. Transfer dough to a food processor and turn it on. Add eggs through feed tube, one at a time, then process 30 seconds. Add cheese and process until well blended.
4. Spoon 1 1/2-inch mounds of dough onto the 2 baking sheets. They will have to be baked in batches, unless you have 2 ovens. Cover remaining batter until after the first batch has baked. Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce oven to 400 degrees and continue baking until they are puffy and light brown, about 30 minutes longer. Reverse position of baking sheets if they seem to be baking unevenly. Transfer to a wire rack. Wait until baking sheet has cooled before spooning on remaining batter. The puffs can be baked in advance and stored in a tightly sealed paper bag overnight or wrapped tightly and frozen. Reheat in a 300 degree oven for 10 minutes before serving.
5. For the glaze, combine cranberries, currants, brown sugar, water and spices in a non-aluminum pan. Cook over medium-high heat until most, but not all, of the berries have popped, 6 to 8 minutes. Cool to room temperature before using.
6. Carefully cut the top rind from cheese but do not cut through the rind on the side or cheese will ooze out when it bakes. Put cheese on a foil-lined baking sheet. Spread a thick layer of cranberry glaze over top. The cheese can be assembled up to several hours in advance and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before baking. Bake in a 300 degree oven just until it is soft and warm, about 12 minutes.
7. To serve, use the foil to transfer cheese to a large platter, then remove foil. Arrange cheese puffs as a wreath around cheese. Intersperse seasonal garnishes in with the puffs, such as mint and fresh cranberries, if desired, to fashion a wreath.
Note: Most pepper mills do not grind pepper sufficiently coarse. In that case, use Spice Islands Coarse Cracked Black Pepper.
Delicate little cornmeal pancakes, used as blini, lay the morsel of smoked salmon and a dab of creme fraiche. The contrast of the sweet pancakes with the smoked salmon is an unusually delicious combination.
CORNMEAL ”BLINI” WITH SMOKED SALMON
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 3 to 5 minutes
Yield: 24 pancakes
2 large eggs
2 1/2 tablespoons yellow cornmeal
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup sour cream
Unsalted butter, for cooking
Garnish:
12 ounces smoked salmon
1 cup creme fraiche or sour cream
Fresh dill sprigs
1. Mix eggs, cornmeal, sugar, baking soda and salt until smooth in a bowl, then gently fold in sour cream. The batter can be used right away or refrigerated overnight.
2. Melt enough butter to coat the bottom of a griddle. When it is hot, add a scant tablespoon of batter for each pancake, spreading it in neat 2 1/2- inch circles. Cook over medium heat until the top is covered with air bubbles. Turn and cook other side. Pancakes can be made in advance and refrigerated overnight or frozen. Arrange on a baking sheet and reheat in a 200 degree oven 8 to 10 minutes before serving.
3. To serve, spread each pancake with creme fraiche or sour cream, leaving a small border of the pancake exposed. Top with two 1/2-inch slices of salmon making a cross or put a whole slice over the creme fraiche. Garnish with a feathery sprig of fresh dill.
As welcome as they are, vegetable salads can pose a problem when it comes to buffet service. Here, a colorful tangle of veges call it anise.
JULIENNED SALAD OF FENNEL,
CARROTS AND RED PEPPERS IN LETTUCE LEAVES
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 6 minutes
Chilling time: 6 hours
Yield: 24 servings
Salad:
2 medium fennel bulbs, about 22 ounces total
3 large carrots, 12 ounces total
2 small red peppers, 8 ounces
1 small leek, 3 ounces
Dressing:
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 3/4 teaspoons dried tarragon
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 medium shallot, peeled
1/2 cup light tasting olive oil
24 Boston lettuce leaves, from the center of the head
1. For the salad, trim the slender ends of fennel down to the bulb. Separate the bulb into stalks and cut the stalks into 1/8-inch juliennes. Peel carrots and cut into 2-inch by 1/8-inch juliennes. Cut 4 sides from the red pepper and cut them into 1/4-inch juliennes. Slit the leek lengthwise, almost, but not through the root. Fan the leaves open under cold water to remove the dirt. Remove the coarse green ends and cut the tender part into fine slivers. 2. For the dressing, mix lemon juice, mustard, vinegar, tarragon, sugar, salt and pepper in a small dish and set aside. Mince shallot in a food processor or by hand. Heat oil in a large skillet and add shallot. Cook gently until shallot is soft, about 3 minutes.
3. Add fennel to skillet, cover and cook over medium-high heat until fennel begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Add remaining vegetables and dressing, cover and cook until all the vegetables are heated through but aren`t wilted. Remove from heat and cool completely.
4. Refrigerate at least 6 hours or up to 2 days before serving. At serving time, stir to mix and add salt and pepper to taste. Spoon the salad into the lettuce leaves and arrange them on a platter or individual plates. –
