When the windowsill will not hold another pot and the plant stand cannot support another specimen, it`s time to move upward. When all the floor space is monopolized, few indoor gardeners can resist hanging plants aloft.
It`s always tempting to buy a ready-made, fully finished hanging plant at the supermarket. These overfed danglers are sold in prime condition and will look great for a few months, but they usually go downhill before long. So for the long haul, raise your own hanging plants.
Good hanging plants don`t just happen, they are cultivated. Only certain plants have what it takes to fill a hanging pot. When choosing an appropriate candidate, look for a plant that is compact and capable of branching. Obviously, it should not have a thick, upright, woody stem. Any plant with a stubborn tendency to shoot up vertically will never assume a prone position easily.
The best hanging pots sport soft-stemmed plants with a trailing habit. Some gain a little girth and form a plump orb to encase their containers with greenery. Others send long chains of foliage-lined stems showering downward. Both are appropriate.
Remember that plants are most impressionable when young. Plants that have been growing upright for months or years are never going to learn to lie down and roll over the sides of a hanging pot. Use small starter plants.
The next step is to find an appropriate container. The quest should not be difficult; there are hundreds of suitable vessels. When selecting a pot, beauty is not the most important criterion. After all, with a little luck, the cascading foliage soon will camouflage its container.
Consider the growing conditions. Hanging plants tend to dry out more rapidly than their counterparts below, because of added air circulation around the container. A plastic basket may not please your senses like a fine terra- cotta container, but it will require water less frequently than clay. On the other hand, if you have a reasonably humid environment and an evenhanded watering regimen, you might safely indulge in clay. Almost any clay pot with a rim can be suspended simply by attaching a clip-on heavy-wire hanger. Finally, bear in mind that life aloft tends to encourage roots to grow horizontally rather than downward, so a shallow azalea pot or pan pot is more appropriate than a deep one.
All hanging pots should have ample drainage holes and a drip pan. A satisfactory solution to the water-drainage problem is to slip your pot inside a glazed clay hanging jardiniere. The soil dries out less frequently in a double pot, especially if you line the air space between the two with moss.
Potting it up
Having decided on a container and a type of plant, you are ready to start potting. Planting a hanging basket is a balancing act, and a single plant rarely fills out properly. You will need several small plants to achieve the proper symmetry; those that come in 2 1/2-inch pots are ideal. Not only is a lopsided basket uncomfortable to look at, it is continually teetering.
Two or three plants will balance out a 6-inch basket, while three or four plants will fill an 8-inch pot. When potting, use a humuslike soil bolstered by additional peat moss; the ideal mix is equal parts peat moss, soil, sand and vermiculite. Avoid sandy soils because they are heavy and dry out frequently.
Potting is simple. First, fill the bottom of the container with a layer of soil, leaving sufficient room for the incoming plants. Next, space the plants evenly around the edge of the container, and fill the empty nooks and crannies with soil, leaving an inch between the soil surface and the rim of the pot for easy watering. Moisten the soil thoroughly immediately after potting.
To get the young plants started in the right direction, pinch them back to within 2 or 3 inches of the soil to encourage lateral growth. An occasional pinching will reinforce the plant`s natural tendency to spill over the sides of the container. The more you pinch, the bushier your basket will become.
You can never rest when growing hanging plants. They require more care than upright, ground-level plants, and proper maintenance is the key. Here are a few tips for keeping hanging plants happy, healthy and lush:
Don`t forget to water-Quench its thirst before wilted foliage sounds a distress signal. Most hanging plants will forgive a transgression or two, but they will not tolerate negligence. You can water parched soil indefinitely, and it will not take up moisture; the water merely runs down the edges and out the drainage hole. If first aid is necessary, soak the potted plant in a bucket of water until the soil is evenly moist but not drenched. And try to be more conscientious in the future.
Don`t overwater-When watering, fill the container with water to the rim, then allow it to soak in. A second serving is unnecessary. And don`t water too frequently. In winter a hanging plant generally needs water less frequently than during summer. The exceptions are plants grown above heating units
(especially forced-air units). They tend to dry out rapidly.
Prune ruthlessly-Pruning is the secret to long life. When the foliage begins to go from luxuriant to leggy, prune it. A neglected hanging plant goes downhill fast. The most effective method of pruning is to cut the stems severely, straight across the rim of the pot. The result will resemble the botanical verson of a punk haircut, and the plant might look a bit homely for a few weeks, but it will grow out.
Groom continually-Remove any yellowing or dead foliage, and snip out old stems. A dense hanging plant usually covers up unsightly browning stems with fresh new growth, but dead material can lead to disease and insect problems. It should be removed.
Check for insect infestations-Even a well-groomed specimen can hide the cottony masses of mealybugs or the webs of red spider mites in its dense growth. When spraying a hanging plant, be sure to penetrate the depths of its inner foliage.
Fertilize regularly-In spring, summer and early fall, feed hanging plants every three weeks. Use a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20.
Don`t be overgenerous when repotting-At some point you will have to call a halt to the plant`s promotions. After all, you don`t want it to pull down the rafters. When a hanging plant becomes too big, try root-pruning as well as cutting back the foliage. Or divide it and pot the divisions separately.
Take your hanging plant outdoors in summer-Be sure to put the plant under an overhang or the container will be weighed down and waterlogged in a downpour. Hang it in a spot protected from direct sun and strong winds. Most important, don`t forget to water your plant while it is enjoying its summer outdoors.
Remember to bring hanging plants indoors in fall-Frost settles on the ground, so aerial plants often will survive the first frost, but don`t push your luck. After all, you`ll want to enjoy your plants over the winter. Remember to inspect the plant for pests before welcoming them back inside. A well-grown, well-groomed hanging plant will live happily for a long time.
