Bah! Humbug! If the coming of the holiday season fills you with dread, cheer up. Today`s shopping malls, overflowing with mass-produced Christmas merchandise, are but the gaudy descendants of Christmas markets that originated in Europe during the Middle Ages. The old markets of Bavaria and Austria can rekindle the pure joys of holidays past in even the worst of modern-day Scrooges.
Called Christkindlmarkt (Christ Child market) from the belief that Christmas gifts come from the Christ Child himself, these yuletide events are, in fact, for children-or for the child in all of us. Typically, the Christmas markets of Europe are lined with hundreds of small booths offering a feast for the senses. Spices fill the air in the narrow lanes as passersby enjoy hot claret mulled with cinnamon and cloves, fried sausages and gingerbread cakes and cookies.
Choirs, quartets, brass bands and carolers make Christmas music, punctuated by the bells and clip-clop of horse-drawn carriages. There`s a friendly jostling of crowds in the narrow aisles, but always a seasonal goodwill prevails, especially when darkness brings a dusting of tingling snowflakes. St. Nicholas in clerical garb roams the market looking for children-naughty or nice-who would like a Christmas sweet.
Artisans sell handcrafted folk art of all types, especially toys, often items that cannot be found anywhere else. Look for mangers and creche figures of porcelain and wood, intricate glass ornaments, hand-carved soldiers and nutcrackers of the finest rank, puppets and marionettes, straw stars and snowflakes, Advent wreaths and tree decorations made of seeds and grasses.
Edible offerings include the zwetschgenmannlein prune people (made of dried plums and nuts), gingerbread figures too perfect to eat, Christmas currant cakes and fruit breads, toffee, baked apples, sugared almonds, doughnuts and hot chestnuts.
Germany`s towns and cities are filled with Christmas markets large and small. The most famous one is in Nuremberg (Dec. 1-24) in the Hauptmarkt, the old town market square in front of the Church of Our Lady. Top item at this market is a tinsel angel made of thin sheet brass, referred to as the
”Nuremberg Christ Child.”
Munich`s Christmas Market (Dec. 2-24) is located on the beautiful Marienplatz, the market square in front of the town hall. German woodcarvers offer their wares from booths striped in the traditional blue and white of Bavaria.
Stuttgart`s Christmas Market (Dec. 1-23) features a huge fir tree from the Black Forest. Many vocal performances are scheduled, and 200 stands offer a full array of handicrafts, including country-style pots and mugs and hand-knit sweaters.
Frankfurt`s market is known for its porcelain and ceramic figures as well as the glockenspiel music played by hand from the Old Nicholaus Church. Some Germans recommend the Christmas market at Rothenburg, which runs until Jan. 1. Others tout the markets of Freiburg, Heidelberg, Augsburg, Bremen, Cologne-or their own hometowns.
Next door in Austria, Salzburg`s market (Dec. 2-24) on the Dom- and Residenzplatz features handmade ornaments and Alpine handicrafts. Innsbruck`s Christmas Market (Nov. 24-Dec. 22) along the historic Herzog Friedrich Strasse is loved for its puppeteers and clowns. Linz has two Christmas markets, one at the Hauptplatz with gifts for adults and one in the Volksgarten with fairy-tale figures for the kids.
Perhaps the best-known city in Austria for Christmas markets is Vienna. The big market there (Nov. 18-Dec. 24), at Rathausplatz, is filled with toys and nutcrackers. A smaller version at Freyung concentrates on arts and crafts. There are other Christmas markets in Europe too. Brussels is the setting for the Christmas market at the Grand Sablon (Dec. 7-9) with top-quality gifts from all of the Continent as well as a medieval town market complete with artisans, jugglers, magicians and Father Christmas himself.
Finland has its Christmas Park and Charity Market at Esplanade Park in Helsinki. Luxembourg City stages its version at Place d`Armes (Dec. 12-24). At Switzerland`s many Christmas markets, you can make your own hand-dipped candles. Visit the one in Basel (Dec. 1-22) and ride the Marlitram, an electric tram driven by none other than St. Nick. Or try the tiny baroque town of Solothurn for the Santa Claus Market (Dec. 5-6).
But you need not venture overseas for the spirit of the traditional Christkindlmarkt. There are Christmas markets, in one form or another, from coast to coast in the U.S. Some retain the actual name of their ancestor, such as the Christkindl Markt of Germantown, Wis. (Nov. 24-25), and the Kristkindl Markt of Fredericksburg, Tex. (Dec. 8-9, 15-16).
Thousands of others have different names but retain the Christkindlmarkt spirit. Try the Holiday Folk Fair in Milwaukee (Nov. 16-18); the Christmas Fair put on by the American Swedish Institute in Minneapolis (Nov. 17); the Michigan Christmas Tree Festival in Grand Haven, Holland and Zeeland (Nov. 23- Dec. 16); Lambs Farm Holiday Art, Craft and Antique Show and Sale at O`Hare Expo Center (Nov. 29-Dec. 2); or the O`Tannenbaum Christmas Festivity at Charlestown, Ind. (Nov. 30-Dec. 1).
Clearly, you need not go far to banish those holiday blues with the Christkindlmarkt spirit-and to enjoy the visual and edible genuine old-time holiday goodies.
Finally, looking beyond the holiday season, 1991 is the 200th birthday of Washington, D.C., and the Year of Music in British Columbia, Canada. Austria begins its observance of the 200th anniversary of Mozart`s death with Mozart Week in Salzburg (Jan. 25-Feb. 5). Switzerland starts its 700th birthday party with ceremonies in Bellinzona Jan. 10-11.
In the Far East, India and Indonesia plan special events for tourists during 1991, which is both ”Visit India Year” and ”Visit Indonesia Year.” Indonesia also visits the U.S. in 1991 with the Festival of Indonesia, an impressive roadshow of performances and exhibits representing the diverse cultures of that archipelago.
U.S. Events
THE MIDWEST
– Night of the Stars. Portsmouth, Ohio. In this first-time event, 150 stars-including Roy Rogers-have been invited back home for induction into the Hometown Heroes Hall of Fame. Nov. 9-10.
– Nights Before Christmas. Madison, Ind. Carolers, carriage rides and Christmas comestibles are featured on candlelight tours of historic homes in downtown Madison. Nov. 23-25, Nov. 30-Dec. 2.
– Christmas Extravaganzoo. Springfield, Mo. The animals do their part for Christmas as Dickerson Park Zoo turns into a holiday menagerie. Nov. 24- Dec. 8.
– Christmas through the Windows of Cowtown. Wichita, Kan. At the Old Cowtown Museum, Santa Claus, circa 1870, beckons you to return to the Christmases of yesteryear. Nov. 26-Dec. 1.
– Star City Holiday Parade. Lincoln, Neb. This year`s theme is ”A Peaceable Kingdom,” with giant inflatable characters in a parade that gets bigger and bigger each year. Dec. 1.
– Christmas in Zoar. Zoar, Ohio. This restored German communal settlement in northeast Ohio offers home tours, arts and crafts and authentic German food. Don`t miss the famous Zoar ginger cookies. Dec. 1-2.
– Holiday Stroll and Festival of Trees. Muscatine, Iowa. Horse-drawn buggy rides, carolers and a strolling Nativity display are top features of this movable Christmas fest. Dec. 7.
– Live Nativity Scene in the Countryside. Vinland, Kan. Cows and sheep join a babe in a manger at this serene display 15 miles south of Lawrence. Dec. 21-23.
– Duluth Winter Sports Festival. Duluth, Minn. The top event among many here is the prestigious 500-mile John Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon (Jan. 15-20). A mutt race and strongest-dog contest too. Jan. 15-30.
– Clock Tower Jazz Festival. Rockford, Ill. Some 20 acts keep perfect time for three full days of Dixieland, traditional and contemporary jazz. Between sets, vendors hawk old records and jazz memorabilia. Jan. 18-20.
– Polar Ice Cap Golf Tournament. Grand Haven, Mich. Whether you enter the Penguin (9-hole) or the Frostbite (18-hole) event, be sure to wear your warmest woolens to this annual winter tourney on Spring Lake. Jan. 19.
– St. Paul Winter Carnival. Minn. With its theme, ”Good Neighbors, Good Times,” the nation`s oldest winter festival spreads out to different St. Paul neighborhoods this year. A favorite event is the King Boreas Medallion Hunt. Jan. 23-Feb. 3.
– Winter Carnival. Houghton, Mich. Averaging 260 inches of snow each year, this is the perfect place for a winter fest. Check out this year`s theme-books-in the spectacular ice carvings. Jan. 26-Feb. 2.
– Shrovetide Pancake Race. Liberal, Kan. In this annual eccentric race against contestants from Olney, England, women run a 415-yard zigzag course holding skillets of pancakes. A pancake breakfast is part of the fun. Feb. 12.
– American Birkebeiner. Hayward and Cable, Wis. Wax up and join more than 6,000 entrants in the largest cross-country ski race in North America. Featured event is the 53-km. race from Hayward to Cable. Feb. 22-24.
– North Dakota Winter Show. Valley City. Thaw out and warm up at this indoor state fair featuring livestock and horse shows, farm and home exhibits. March 7-17.
Maple Sugar Days. Champaign, Ill. At the Salt Fork River Forest Preserve (Homer Lake), learn how humble tree sap is transformed into heavenly nectar. Free samples, of course. March 9-10.
– Wings over the Platte. Grand Island, Neb. Watch from blinds as half a million lesser sandhill cranes dance along a stretch of the Platte River. Guided tours at Kearney, too, throughout the month. March 15-17.
– St. Patrick`s Celebration. Emmetsburg, Iowa. Dublin`s sister city goes Gaelic with an Irish mass, Miss Shamrock pageant and green beer. A member of the Irish parliament is in attendance. March 15-17.
THE NORTHEAST
– New York Marathon. New York City. Some 23,000 hardy runners, 2 million spectators, five boroughs, 26 miles and tons of T-shirts make up the annual running of this prestigious footrace. Nov. 4.
– Waterfowl Festival. Easton, Md. Wildlife artists, 500 of them, flock to exhibit and sell their work. For fun, there are retriever demonstrations and goose- and duck-calling contests at this fowl fair. Nov. 9-11.
– Live Turkey Olympics. New Preston, Conn. On the weekend before Thanksgiving, our national dinner bird competes in eating, jumping and slalom events. Real crowd-pleaser is the Grand March of the Costumed Turkeys. Nov. 18.
– Candlelight Stroll. Portsmouth, N.H. The museum and historic homes are decked out for the season at Strawbery Banke, where Christmas is celebrated Colonial style. Dec. 1-2, 8-9.
– National Christmas Tree Lighting Ceremony/Pageant of Peace. Washington, D.C. In a presidential ceremony, the National Christmas Tree is lit. On the Ellipse grounds, each state has its own Christmas tree through New Year`s Day. Dec. 13.
– First Night. Boston. In the original of this oft-copied New Year`s Eve celebration, the emphasis is on a public celebration of the arts. Also in New Bedford, Worcester, Springfield and Northampton. Dec. 31.
– Mummers Parade. Philadelphia. This world-famous New Year`s Day parade lasts 12 hours as 30,000 mummers do their traditional strut up Broad Street in enormous costumes of silk, satin, feathers and lame. Jan. 1.
– Stowe Winter Carnival. Stowe, Vt. Winners of a winter ”iron-man”
competition (downhill, cross-country, speed-skating) reign as wintermeisters over other events both serious and silly. Jan. 18-27.
– Ice Harvest. Brookfield, Vt. Experts demonstrate old-time harvesting of pond ice using antique cutting and hauling tools. Fun and games for all, including-what else?-ice carving. Jan. 26.
– World Freestyle Championships. Lake Placid, N.Y. For the first time in North America, 200 skiers compete for world titles in ballet, moguls and aerials. Not for the faint of heart. Feb. 10-17.
– Washington`s Birthday Celebration. Sturbridge, Mass. See how the nation honored the birthday of the first president named George. Fashions and dance, a historic meeting-house service and a toasting ceremony too. Feb. 16-18.
– New York Flower Show. New York City. ”A Fantasy of Flowers”
enchants with exhibits from private estate gardens and blooms from the Pacific Tropical Botanical Garden of Hawaii. March 7-17.
– Philadelphia Flower Show. The exotic flora of Kenya, the flower-lined canals of Holland and a plaza decked with the blooms of Italy celebrate
”Endless Spring . . . New Days Dawning Round the World.” March 10-17.
– World Cup Alpine Finals. Waterville Valley, N.H. The top international men and women ski racers swoop down the slopes in giant slalom, slalom and parallel races to determine the 1991 World Cup champions. March 16-24.
– St. Patrick`s Day Parade. Washington, D.C. More than 150,000 watch the annual ”wearin` o` the green” parade down Constitution Avenue. Bigger and greener each year. March 17.
THE SOUTH
– Pinehurst Fall Horse Carriage Drive. Pinehurst, N.C. Take in the reds and golds of autumn by horse-drawn carriage through the beautiful Sandhills and quaint Pinehurst Village. Nov. 10.
– Mid South Arts and Crafts Show and Sale. Memphis, Tenn. Four hundred artisans from 30 states gather in one big room to show their handmade creations at Tennessee`s largest arts and crafts display. Nov. 16-18.
– Kentucky Book Fair. Frankfort. Some 80 authors are booked to read and mingle among browsers at the State Library, including former newsman Fred Graham and country singer Tom T. Hall. Nov. 17.
– Celebration of Praise. Eureka Springs, Ark. The holy season begins here with a Nativity musical drama, Christmas gospel concert and Christmas displays in the Christ Only art gallery. Nov. 23-25, Dec. 1, 7-8.
– Natchitoches Festival of Lights. Natchitoches, Ala. About 170,000 bulbs on 38 miles of wiring strung along the river light the way for sightseers enjoying the holiday season throughout the city. Dec. 1.
– Grand Illumination. Williamsburg, Va. The holiday season in Colonial Williamsburg begins with a bang, courtesy of fife and drum corps and musket and artillery salutes. Dec. 2.
– Old Tyme Christmas. Harpers Ferry, W. Va. This historic town dresses up for an 1859 Christmas complete with quaint crafts, taffy pulls and the arrival of ”President Lincoln” by horse-drawn carriage. Dec. 7-9, 14-16.
– Orange Bowl Festival. Miami, Fla. Hundreds of events are squeezed in before the ”Anything Goes” parade on New Year`s Eve and big game on New Year`s Day. Floats and music kick off the Cole Porter Centennial Celebration. Dec. 16-Jan. 1.
– King Week. Atlanta, Ga. Commemorations include the Celebration `91 concert, ”State of the Dream” address, All People`s Gala and Freedom Trail March. Jan. 13-21.
– Super Bowl. Tampa, Fla. For the 25th time, the NFL`s two top teams go helmet-to-helmet, with plenty of fun around town before the opening coin toss. Jan. 27.
– Mardi Gras. Mobile, Ala. Called the ”Mother of Mystics,” this carnival is a two-week extravaganza of parades and balls. On Fat Tuesday more than 200,000 people crowd into downtown chanting ”Moon Pie! Moon Pie!” to the parading mystic revelers. Jan. 30-Feb. 12.
– Southern Spring Show. Charlotte, N.C. There`s something for everyone to dream about here: 30 gardens, 25 designer rooms and even a pavilion of travel-and-leisure ideas. Feb. 23-March 3.
– Medieval Fair. Sarasota, Fla. A spring market of medieval Europe is re-created here, with strolling minstrels, jousting tourneys, crafts, food and even a human chess game. Feb. 28-March 3.
– Jonquil Festival. Washington, Ark. Amidst thousands of blooming jonquils, visit a primitive Civil War camp, blacksmith shop and old tavern, along 25 blocks of the Old Washington Historic State Park. March 8-10.
– Canadian-American Days Festival. Myrtle Beach, S.C. ”Snowbirds”
from the frozen North meet along the Grand Strand (60 miles of beach) and thaw out by the thousands. March 9-17.
– Cherry Blossom Festival. Macon, Ga. If the 160,000 cherry-blossom trees cooperate, the whole town will be in the pink at this big spring fest. Honored countries this year: Ireland and Japan. March 15-24.
– St. Patrick`s Day Parades. New Orleans. Saturday night, there`s an Irish parade through the famous French Quarter. On Sunday, another one through the Irish Channel neighborhood. March 16-17.
