Q-Can you tell me where I can obtain old-fashioned, not grafted, roses?
A-A rosarian friend suggests three major sources for roses that are not grafted onto a special rootstock but are propagated to grow on their own roots. He cautions that patience may be needed since the rose cultivars of choice may have to be grown to order, a process that can take from 18 months to two years. The sources are:
– The Antique Rose Emporium, Route 5, Box 143, Brenham, Texas 77833
(catalog $2).
– Heritage Rose Gardens, 16831 Mitchell Creek Dr., Ft. Bragg, Calif. 95437 (catalog $1).
– Lowe`s Own Root Roses, 6 Sheffield Rd., Nashua, N.H. 03062 (catalog $2).
Most modern roses are grafted onto a rootstock, a process that expedites production and speeds new varieties to our gardens. Different rootstocks are used for different climates. Gardeners who have had trouble with winterkill often see own-root roses as a promising alternative to those that have been grafted.
An exception to the rule is the miniature rose, which is almost always grown on its own roots, at least in North America. Despite the small and delicate appearance of these little bushes, they are surprisingly hardy, often surviving bitter winters that create havoc among big roses growing in the same garden beds. Come spring, even if the tops of the bushes freeze to the ground, strong new shoots of the original cultivar will rise.
As winter settles in, I appreciate more and more the gardening activities that can be done indoors, such as studying catalogs, dreaming a little and working out planting schemes for the coming outdoor season. Any reader having a special love for roses will enjoy a sumptuous new book written by Stephen Scanniello and Tania Bayard, with photography by Albert Squillace. It is called ”Roses of America: The Brooklyn Botanic Garden`s Guide to Our National Flower” (Henry Holt, $39.95).
Thomas Christopher`s popular book from last year, ”In Search of Lost Roses” (Summit Books, $18.95), is also must reading for all who admire the rose. Christopher takes the reader through ghost towns, graveyards, wilderness-even other people`s back yards-in an intrepid quest for the great old roses of the past.
Q-How can I get my Christmas cactus to bloom? It looks healthy. I brought it in for winter from a sunny screened porch and have it hanging in a sunny window. Sometimes little knobby buds form, but they never bloom out. What can I do?
A-Christmas and other holiday cacti set buds in autumn during the naturally short days of the year, but also in response to cooler night temperatures, 50 to 55 degrees being ideal. During this period it is important to keep the soil nicely moist, but avoid extremes of wet and dry.
Bud drop in Christmas cactus often results when the plants are moved from one environment to another, or when the soil is permitted to be severely dry, especially in the presence of warm temperatures. Regarding the plant in question, flowering can be encouraged by maintaining good cultural conditions throughout fall and early winter, which is to say a sunny exposure, moderate temperatures between 50 and 72 degrees and nicely moist soil. A blossom-booster fertilizer such as 1-6-5 applied at half strength every two weeks could also be beneficial.
Q-I have a large tree tomato, better known as Cyphomandra betacea. The problem is that its top leaves seem always to be wilted or slightly droopy. The same thing occurred outdoors last summer. Now the plant is in a window with four to five hours of sunshine daily. I have it in a 16-inch pot and usually give it two quarts of water every three days or so. Most of the time the soil surface feels dry by the time I water. The plant is about 5 feet tall.
A-Cyphomandra is a Peruvian relative of the true tomato. It grows rapidly and reaches fruiting size in 18 to 24 months. This plant also has an extensive root system; the one in question probably needs to be moved to a size or two larger pot, with fresh soil mix added to fill.
Since long days and warm temperatures favor cyphomandra`s most active growth, you might want to hold off repotting until early spring.
At this time about a third of the old root system can be pruned and a similar portion of the top branches cut back as well.
In summer, when the tree tomato is outdoors, be sure that it always has enough moisture to prevent severe wilting. Make regular applications of tomato fertilizer.
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Elvin McDonald cannot answer all questions individually, but he will respond to questions of general interest in this column. Write to him c/o The Chicago Tribune, Room 400, 435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. 60611.
