Throughout Mexico, many cooks still make stacks of fresh corn tortillas every day. Leftovers are inevitable. They stale quickly, so the day-old tortillas are used quite differently than those that are newly made. Dishes made with stale tortillas are called chilaquiles (pronounced chee-lah-key-lays), which colloquially means ”a broken-up old sombrero.”
On my first taste of a chilaquiles dish, I knew that stale tortillas opened up a whole new category of irresistible recipes.
For one, they form the base of some outstanding casseroles. They easily become a fine foil for almost any type of leftovers; after all, there is no reason tortillas must be used exclusively with Mexican sauces and ingredients. Even outside of Mexico, fresh, locally made corn tortillas are preferred for their taste and texture. However, the refrigerator variety can be used as well.
To prepare tortilla strips for casseroles:
1. Cut corn tortillas into 3/4-inch wide strips.
2. The tortilla strips generally are dried out before use, which will let them absorb more of the liquids. This may be done for several days, or they can be dried in a 300-degree oven for 20 minutes to 1 hour.
3. Pour enough vegetable oil to cover a skillet bottom to 1/3-inch deep; heat to the smoking point.
4. Add tortilla strips in a single layer; fry, turning occasionally, until golden brown but not too crisp, about 30 seconds. Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain before using.
Once the tortillas are prepared, usually a third are placed at the bottom of a casserole, then leftovers and/or sauce, continuing with a few more similar layers. Add stock (the better the stock, the better the result) for the tortillas to absorb and bake about 20 minutes.
CHILAQUILES IN CHILI SAUCE
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 25 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
This is a version of the first chilaquiles dish I tasted, and it is still my favorite.
18 stale corn tortillas, cut in strips, fried
12 guajillo chilies, see note
1 large onion, about 8 ounces, thinly sliced, separated into rings
2 cloves garlic
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/2 cup water
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 1/2 cups chicken stock or broth
1 1/3 cups ( 1/2 pound) crumbled farmer cheese
For garnish:
1 cup sour cream
2 chorizo sausages, about 12 ounces, crumbled, fried, drained
2 limes, cut into wedges
1. Prepare tortilla strips.
2. Heat a griddle over medium-high heat; lightly toast chilies on both sides. Cool; cut open and remove and discard veins and seeds. Put chilies into bowl; add hot water to cover; let soak until softened, 20 to 30 minutes.
3. Drain chilies; transfer chilies to a blender. Add 1/3 of the onion rings, garlic, salt and cumin seeds and 1/2 cup water. Process, scraping down sides of container, until smooth. Push sauce through fine wire strainer into bowl.
4. Heat oil in medium skillet until hot. Add the sauce; cook and stir until it darkens slightly, about 3 minutes. Add 1/2 cup of the chicken stock and continue cooking a few minutes longer. Set aside.
5. Cover bottom of a 4-quart Dutch oven with 1/3 of the tortilla pieces. Cover with a layer of 1/3 of the cheese and then 1/3 of sauce. Repeat the layers twice more.
6. Carefully pour in remaining stock; heat to boil. Reduce heat and continue cooking at simmer until most of stock has been absorbed, about 15 minutes.
7. To serve, stir sour cream until smooth and then spoon it around edge of pan. Sprinkle with chorizo and remaining onion rings. Spoon into wide-rimmed soup bowls and serve with lime wedges on side.
Note: The hot and flavorful guajillo chilies have a shiny dark red-brown skin and are about 4-inches long and 1-inch wide. They are available at some large supermarkets and Latin food stores. Dried New Mexico chilies (often confused with guajillo chilies because they have a similar appearance) can be substituted but they have a much milder taste.
CHILAQUILES IN GREEN SAUCE
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
1 whole chicken breast, split
Salt
12 stale corn tortillas, cut into strips, fried
Cooked tomatillo sauce, recipe follows
2 tablespoons sour cream
2 tablespoons crumbled farmer`s cheese
Chopped fresh cilantro
1. Put chicken into medium saucepan. Add water just to cover chicken. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt. Heat to simmer. Simmer, covered until chicken is springy when pressed, about 15 minutes. Drain; cool chicken until you are able to handle it. Discard skin. Pull chicken off bones and shred it. Set aside.
2. Prepare tortillas. Prepare tomatillo sauce.
3. Heat tomatillo sauce in large saucepan to boil; add tortilla strips and simmer about 3 minutes.
4. Preheat broiler. Transfer tortilla mixture to heatproof serving dish. Sprinkle with shredded chicken; then dot top with sour cream and cheese. Broil just until the cheese melts. Garnish with chopped cilantro. Serve immediately. COOKED TOMATILLO SAUCE
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Yield: About 4 cups
1 1/2 pounds fresh tomatillos, husks removed or 2 cans (12 ounces each)
tomatillos, drained
2-3 serrano chilies
1/4 medium onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, roughly chopped
1/4 teaspoon each: sugar, salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1. Put the fresh tomatillos in a saucepan just large enough to hold them in a single layer. Add water to cover. Heat to boil; reduce heat and simmer until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain.
2. Meanwhile, place chilies on a warm griddle over medium heat. Turn chilies occasionally until skin is blackened all over and chilies have softened. Remove and discard stem and seeds.
3. Put tomatillos, chilies, onion, garlic, sugar and salt into a blender. Process, scraping down sides of container, until smooth (adding a little water if needed).
4. Heat oil in medium skillet; add the sauce; cook and stir for 5 minutes. Use sauce in casseroles or over enchiladas. Sauce will keep refrigerated up to 1 week or frozen up to 2 months.
RED PEPPER TORTILLA CASSEROLE
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
This might be served as a first course or for a brunch. It also makes a nice ”vegetable and starch” to accompany fish, poultry or meat.
12 stale corn tortillas, cut into strips, fried
4 large red bell peppers or two jars (7 ounces each) roasted red peppers or pimientos, cut into strips
2 medium tomatoes or 1 1/2 cups canned
1 clove garlic
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 medium onion, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup crumbled farmer`s cheese, see note
Sour cream for garnish
Chopped cilantro for garnish
1. Prepare tortillas.
2. Place the fresh peppers directly over a gas flame or under a broiler, turning occasionally, until blackened on all sides, about 10 minutes. Place in a bag, close bag and let stand about 10 minutes. Then peel off the charred skin under running water. Cut out the stem, remove the inner ribs and seeds and cut peppers into strips. (If using bottled red peppers or pimientos; rinse under cold water; drain; cut into strips.)
3. Meanwhile, if using fresh tomatoes, put them in a small pan lined with aluminum foil. Broil, at a medium temperature, turning occasionally until skin is charred, about 20 minutes. Put whole tomatoes (incuding browned skin, core and seeds) into blender; add garlic. Process until smooth.
4. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons oil in large skillet; add onion; cook until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add tomato mixture and salt to onions; cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, about 3 minutes.
5. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Layer 1/3 of the tortilla strips in bottom of 2-quart ovenproof casserole dish. Top with 1/2 of the pepper strips, 1/2 of the cheese and 1/3 of sauce. Repeat with two more layers of same, finishing off with remaining tortillas and sauce.
6. Bake, covered, until heated through, about 20 minutes. Serve with dollop of sour cream and generous sprinkle of cilantro.
Note: You may substitute goat cheese, shredded Monterey jack with jalapenos, brick or other cheese for the farmer`s cheese if desired. –
