History shows that New York Journal photographer James Kane first gave
”cheesecake” a double meaning.
In 1912, Kane developed his photo of a woman seated on a steamship rail. Her pose revealed more leg than was intended, moving Kane to coin a phrase:
”That is what I call real cheesecake.”
H.L. Mencken quotes Kane in his 1948 edition of ”The American Language.” Mencken offers the interpretation that Kane was associating his photograph with ”a favorite New York sweet.” The term later was applied to the pinups that decorated many a wall during World War II.
But we`re concerned here with the original meaning: a ”favorite sweet,” a rich cake made with cream cheese, eggs and any flavoring you can imagine.
Unfortunately, cheesecake has gained a reputation as being difficult to prepare. Most recipes read like instructions for assembling a bicycle. The undeniable conclusion is that baking cheesecake is less an indulgence of taste than it is of time, electricity and sanity.
There is an easier way-no-bake cheesecake. But because even that method is time-consuming, cookbook author Myra Chanin has developed a fast way to make no-bake cheesecakes. Her method represents the first true marriage of indulgence and real-life convenience in cheesecake`s long history.
In the Chanin method, an acidic substance (fruit juice or Fruit Fresh ascorbic acid) reacts with sweetened condensed milk. This alters the milk protein so it soaks up liquid, thus thickening the cheesecake, although it will not be as thick as a baked cheesecake or one made with gelatin. Batter also will thicken when melted chocolate solidifies and sets the batter as it cools.
The Chanin method allows a cook to bypass the most time-consuming aspects of the traditional no-bake method, which calls for gelatin and whipped egg whites to thicken the batter.
Chanin offers these hints for no-bake cheesecake in her book ”Mother Wonderful`s Cheesecakes and Other Goodies” (Henry Holt, $12.95).
– Don`t buy bargain cream cheese. The fewer additives, the better the flavor. Flavor with natural extracts, not artificial. On the other hand, Chanin says all brands of sweetened condensed milk taste pretty much the same, so cut corners here.
– Put a piece of cardboard cut to fit and wrapped in heavy-duty aluminum foil in the bottom of the springform pan. When the cake is ready, remove it on the cardboard round.
– Use a stand mixer-hand mixers don`t do a good enough job whipping cream cheese.
– The cake will set after about two hours of refrigeration, but it`s best if it stays in the refrigerator overnight to firm up and intensify flavors.
– No-bake cheesecake should be served cold. Set out 15 minutes before serving to allow the crust to warm, making the cake easier to serve.
– No-bake cheesecake will keep in the refrigerator for a week or two, and freezes well.
– No-bake cheesecake can be cut, served and eaten frozen.
NO-BAKE CARIBBEAN
BANANA CHEESECAKE
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Chilling time: 2 hours or overnight
Yield: 12 servings
This recipe is adapted from ”Mother Wonderful`s Cheesecakes and Other Goodies.” It has a tangy taste and creamy-soft texture reminiscent of key lime pie.
1 tablespoon butter
8 ounces white chocolate
1 teaspoon banana flavoring, optional
20 vanilla wafer cookies
1/4 cup dried banana chips, chopped
1/4 cup pecan halves, chopped medium fine
2 packages (8 ounces each) cream cheese, softened
1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk
4 teaspoons Fruit Fresh
3 tablespoons frozen pineapple-orange-banana juice concentrate, undiluted
2 tablespoons each: fresh lime juice, fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons dark rum or vanilla extract
1 1/2 very ripe bananas, peeled, mashed, about 6 ounces
1/2 banana, sliced thin
Orange and lime wedges, slivered lime rind, for garnish
1. Melt butter and 5 ounces of the white chocolate in the top of a double boiler over simmering water, or in a saucepan on a heat diffuser or in a microwave oven on medium power. When melted, remove from heat and whisk until smooth. Whisk in 1/2 teaspoon of the banana flavoring if using.
2. Put cookies into food processor; process until finely ground. Add dried banana chips and pecans. Process together for 5-second intervals, checking texture frequently. It should be fine and dry, but not mushy.
3. Add crumb/nut mixture all at once to butter mixture. Mash together with a fork until well-blended. Reserve 2 tablespoons of mixture to sprinkle on completed cake. Put remaining mixture into a 9-inch springform pan. Press evenly over bottom and 1 1/2 inches up sides of pan.
4. Melt remaining 3 ounces of white chocolate in the top of a double boiler over simmering water, in a saucepan on a heat diffuser or in a microwave oven. Reserve.
5. Beat cream cheese in large mixer bowl on high speed for 5 minutes. Beat in condensed milk; beat on medium speed until creamy and well-blended, about 2 more minutes. Dissolve Fruit Fresh in juices. Add to cream cheese along with remaining 1/2 teaspoon banana flavoring, rum or vanilla, melted white chocolate and mashed banana. Beat briefly until blended.
Or, in a food processor, whip up cream cheese and condensed milk using the on-off pulse 25 times, and then just run the processor for 10 seconds more or until ingredients are smooth and blended. Dissolve Fruit Fresh in juices;
add to cream cheese along with 1/2 teaspoon banana flavoring, rum or vanilla, melted white chocolate and mashed banana. Process until well-blended.
6. Fold in sliced banana. Pour into crust and spread batter around carefully and evenly so it`s level and pressed firmly against the crust.
7. Garnish with orange and lime wedges and slivers of lime rind. Sprinkle with reserved crust mixture. Put into refrigerator to set, at least 2 hours or overnight.
DEE`S REFRIGERATOR CHEESECAKE
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Chilling time: Several hours
Yield: 10 servings
The following recipe is adapted from ”Kathleen`s Bake Shop Cookbook” by Kathleen King.
1 package (3 ounces) lemon-flavored gelatin
1 cup each: boiling water, graham cracker crumbs
1/4 cup each: confectioners` sugar, melted butter
2 packages (8 ounces each) cream cheese, softened
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup whipping cream
1. Dissolve gelatin in boiling water. Chill until slightly thickened
(about the consistency of egg whites).
2. Mix graham cracker crumbs, confectioners` sugar and butter in a small bowl. Press into bottom of 9-inch springform pan. Refrigerate.
3. Beat cream cheese, granulated sugar and vanilla in large mixer bowl until fluffy. Beat in gelatin mixture. Beat whipping cream in small mixer bowl until soft peaks form. Fold into cream cheese mixture. Pour into prepared crust and refrigerate until set, several hours.
