The resounding message that came out of the Paris ready-to-wear collections is that the dark days are over. Not only did color light up the runways, but the dark mood of winter that hung over the couture shows in January-weighted down by the Persian Gulf war, a weakened dollar and recession-has given way to a cheery, warm weather optimism that was felt across the runways here.
For sheer spectacle, the Paris shows were a tour de force. Jean-Paul Gaultier dedicated his show to the omen of Toulouse-Lautrec and the Moulin Rouge-with models in sprayed-red chignons and merry lace-up boots. Just when you thought nothing could top the figure skaters Gaultier sent out at the end of the show for entertainment, the designer himself appeared and did a boisterous can-can for the crowd.
American executives from all points gave four stars to Paris` fall/winter looks. ”Just great. What would we do without Paris fashion,” said Bloomingdale`s vice president of fashion direction Kal Ruttenstein. ”Very up,” said Macy`s vice president and fashion director Ellin Saltzman. ”We needed a shot in the arm and we got it in Paris.” And Joan Kaner, senior vice president and fashion director of Neiman Marcus, called the week
”exuberant.”
Among the broad trends coming from Paris this season were big coats, plaid, color (every hue in the red spectrum) and the mix-and-match look. Hemlines were both up and down-down meaning longer than midthigh. Midcalf skirts were shown by such designers as Emanuel Ungaro and Gaultier, but they were not a general trend.
Chanel
For Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld set the mood for his street- and rap-inspired collection with some raunchy Madonna melodies and models swinging leather and chain bondage gear tied to their wrists.
Lagerfeld, as usual, reaped praise not only for his profusion of ideas but for his inventiveness in creating even more new jacket styles for the house of Chanel. But it was his bodysuits that had the audience applauding and cheering. Gold and silver second-skin catsuits went under everything from brightly colored coats in pyramid shapes to filmy black chiffon dresses that allowed a glimmering golden glow to show through. There also were some fishnet bodysuits but, needless to say, the Goldfinger styles were the ones that retailers could visualize in their own fashion shows, come August and September. The new Chanel jackets-frequently long-often flare out from fitted waistlines or gently caress the body. Most of the daytime hemlines stop just above the knees. Lagerfeld`s favorite tops with these suits continue to be cotton T-shirts rather than formal blouses.
But, then, Lagerfeld rarely likes to be terribly formal in his Chanel collections. So, for fall, he showed quilted leather motorcycle jackets over silk taffeta or tulle skirts. He combined denim skirts (with frayed hemlines) and typically tweedy jackets (plus gobs of jewelry, as usual) and used feather boas instead of furs.
Oscar de la Renta
The energy that seemed to reverberate throughout Paris struck a high point at Oscar de la Renta`s presentation in the courtyard of the Louvre. Marking the first time an American showed here, de la Renta was awarded a standing ovation at the show`s end as his teary-eyed entourage-including former assistant Carolyne Roehm, wife, Annette, not to mention a bewildered Dolph Lundgren and a bored-looking Inez de la Fressange-looked on.
De la Renta-feted by everyone from Marie Helene de Rothschild to Yves St. Laurent-pronounced himself ”moved” by the experience, while Roehme confessed to be floored by the sheer size of the Paris showings, many of which she and de la Renta checked out during their week stay here.
The collection echoed his jubilation. Striped coats swung freely over sweaters, tights and boots that inched up over the knee. Sheared mink coats worked into plaids of green and red or yellow and black were eyepoppers. And, speaking of color, the designer`s upbeat combinations were notable: apple green with fuchsia and red with yellow shown in plaid suits and coats. These daring medleys provided an appealing counterpoint to the longer skirts he bravely introduced.
For daytime, de la Renta offered fitted coats in plaids or solid colors with full skirts that curve over the hips. For evening, the striped coats reappeared shorter and in satin. Soutache embroidery, silk plaids with metallic glints and jewel encrustations and gold bands on black velvet made the night clothes shine.
Montana
Claude Montana continued to evolve the modernistic shapes he has been showing for several seasons rather than going off in a revolutionary new direction. Yet, retailers continued to call him a ”fashion powerhouse” and his collection masterful.
Using crisp fabrics for his jackets and skirts, the jackets generally fitted at the waist before flaring over A-shaped skirts with asymmetric hemlines. Black has replaced the white he used so effectively for his spring and summer collection but, for fall, he continues with his favorite pastels-pink and blue. Trims, both functional and fanciful, include silver fringe, clasps and zippers.
Saint Laurent
Rousing Scottish plaids worn with tam-o`-shanters and scarves across one shoulder heralded the ethnic themes from Saint Laurent. Many longer skirts were pleated, adding a fluidness that reinforced the Scottish influence. Echoes of his Russian peasant look from the 1970s were seen in his densely patterned fabrics combined with black velvet.
Saint Laurent set the runway on fire with gold for the finale: jackets with ankle-length pants, shift dresses, fitted coats over dirndl skirts.
Ungaro
The threat of an all-long collection from Emanuel Ungaro-who covered the knees in his couture show in January and did so again here for his daytime skirts-faded fast when he sent models sashaying down the runway in brief evening wear. There were no floor-length dresses to be found; all the skirts were short.
A key component of his daytime fashions, the jacket was important for evening dress, as well. He showed embroidered velvet and satin jackets over lame and brocade skirts and dresses. A bolero, sequined in yellow, red or blue, was shown over a black dress.
A wish list for fall
Although a profusion of fashion emerged from Paris this season, there are some key pieces women might want to consider for next fall.
According to Lynn Manulis, president of Martha, a Manhattan boutique:
”Everyone has to have one or two of the new jackets. The newest ones are generally long-and one for day and one for evening would do. Then a marvelous new skirt-a swinging kind or the slashed ribbon one from Chanel or the flaring side-zippered skirts from Montana. And then you`ve got to look at a wonderful, brightly hued coat-funnel collared or arc collared; they`re news and no one has one so everyone needs one.
”Add to that a few extraordinary sweaters, like the ones Oscar de la Renta showed-cashmere for evening looks so fresh. The wardrobe from Paris is an opulent looking one but each designer has reduced his collection to pieces everyone can use in their own fashion,” she said.
And the unitard?
”It`s the base,” continued Manulis. ”But you do need color on the leg. Not just opaque black, but tone on tone, or coordinating the color of the leg to the dress for a long stemmed look.”
