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Say fashion, and it`s not likely that Milwaukee will come immediately to mind. Yet that`s the base of operations for JH Collectibles, one of the country`s largest sportswear lines, and one that has remained true to its mid- American roots.

”We`re hometown oriented,” says Karen Ross, who oversees the customer service program for the 46-year-old company, founded by her grandfather, William Fieldstein, and still privately owned by Ross`s family.

Another reason for staying based where it was founded, Ross says, is more abundant manufacturing space-compared to the congested Northeast-in which to expand.

And that`s a priority for the company which last year moved into the global marketplace and now has more than 100 accounts worldwide.

This fall JH is expanding into licensed accessories, adding footwear, eyewear and some coats to the line`s classic separates in a palette splashed with red, navy, goldenrod and sage.

”We eventually want to open boutiques,” says Ross, 27, who also is directing the licensing move. She worked for Benetton and The Limited before joining the family business five years ago.

Meanwhile, stores nationwide will carry new JH pumps, flats and boots. The shoes are crafted by Pupi D`Angieri, whose claim to fame has been creations for Ungaro, Fendi and Donna Karan. Tortoiseshell eyewear and trenchcoats also will be available this fall; wallets and handbags are expected next year.

Also relatively new to the company is spokesmodel Cindy Crawford, a De Kalb native, who is key to JH`s aim to increase its appeal to younger women.

”She helps us interpret the European fashions,” says Bruce Ross, Karen`s brother and company president. ”And we like to get her input on design.”

But in broadening its horizons, Karen Ross says JH won`t abandon its already loyal following, which has come to rely on JH`s ”collectible” mid-priced offerings, which are designed to coordinate with previous years`

pieces.

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JH fashions and accessories are available at Marshall Field`s, Bloomingdale`s, Lord & Taylor, Nordstrom, Carson Pirie Scott & Co.