The thermometer was hovering around 92, and the humidity was right up there too. An instant-sweat day, typical Chicago summer.
It was the perfect day to start the search for the perfect taco.
As a nation, we`ve been having a love affair with tacos since the 1970s, when we discovered the joys of seasoned, spicy meat stuffed into tortilla shells.
For many of us, making tacos means cooking some ground beef with a dry mix that we buy in a little packet, and then putting the beef mixture in a crisp shell that comes out of a box. Lettuce, tomatoes, onions, grated cheese, salsa and sour cream then get piled on top.
That can be a meal, but it`s not our definition of the perfect taco.
We were in search of something authentic-a taco that might have come right out of Mexico. A taco untouched by powdered mixes and unblemished by add-ons. The real thing.
Taco-searching weather
That`s why the weather was right. It wouldn`t be appropriate to conduct this taco quest in the dead of winter. Getting into the taco frame of mind demanded a hot, sticky day.
My traveling taco companion even brought along bottled water, adding to the feeling of legitimacy. Every time we went into a different little taco place, she`d whip the bottle out of her bag and set it on the table.
Our travels took us to North Ashland Avenue, roughly between North and Grand Avenues; to the Pilsen area of 18th Street; to Little Village of 26th Street; to the Lincoln Park area; and finally, to Rogers Park.
These were not fancy, tablecloth restaurants. Most were tiny storefronts, with a counter and a few stools, maybe a couple of tables. English generally was not spoken, but the people were friendly and the word ”taco” was understood. Most were hot; air conditioning was not the norm.
And the folks behind the counter in these little storefronts were cooking up some surefire authentic tacos (and burritos and tortas, which are Mexican sandwiches). All the places we visited prepared their tacos in basically the same way: the meat would be sizzled on a hot grill, sprinkled with some lime or lemon juice and salt, and served on two soft corn tortilla shells that had also been heated on the grill.
Meat mixed with cilantro
The meat would usually be mixed with finely chopped cilantro, and sometimes with grilled onions.
That was it. We sat at the counter in most places and watched as our tacos were cooked. Everything was made to order and served sizzling-hot. Most were $1.10 or $1.25 a taco. Occasionally we were asked if we wanted lettuce, tomatoes and cheese, but the tacos never were served automatically with those additions. There would be a bowl of green or red (sometimes both) salsa, usually very hot, to add as desired.
Some of the places had pork cooking on spits, similiar to gyros spits. The pork would be sliced off thinly and piled high on a tortilla, for tacos al pastor. This was definitely a favorite.
We had trouble figuring out what all the different tacos were, because at most of these little spots the menus are in Spanish on a board over the counter. We finally hit a place with printed menus with translations, and we absconded with one for a taco cheat sheet.
(Most taquerias serve tacos made of steak, pork, chicken, tongue, tripe and brains. Some also have chorizo (Mexican sausage) and egg tacos, and chile relleno tacos. You want to know what you`re ordering; see a list of translations in accompanying story.)
Taquerias in groceries
Several of these little taquerias were tucked into Mexican grocery stores, next to the meat counters. How nice to be able to stop and sit down and have a taco or burrito while doing the grocery shopping-a nicety that our big American supermarkets seldom have.
We concentrated on tacos, but we also indulged in a torta at one place. Round circles of thick, yeast bread are grilled. One slice is spread with refried beans. Then comes the filling of your choice (the same fillings as in tacos), topped with avocado slices, lettuce, tomatoes and onion. The other circle of bread is spread with sour cream and then the whole thing is put together in a sandwich. We had a chorizo torta, which was wonderfully flavorful.
Fresh juice (licuados) is served at almost all the places. Orange juice is squeezed after you order it. Likewise for carrot and tamarind juices. I wondered aloud at one place what tamarind juice tasted like, and the waitress poured me a large glass and then refused to charge me for it. She just wanted me to try it, she said-at least, I think that`s what she said. Communication was usually friendly but uncertain, with lots of pointing.
A favorite drink is orchata, a sweet rice water that we were told was good for the system. My companion stuck to her water, but I downed a glass of the sweet, vanilla-flavored liquid. Perhaps that`s why I was able to consume more tacos than she did.
Altogether, we went to about 15 taco places in two days, all listed here. It took us many sweaty hours, and my stomach felt like it had turned into a taco.
Storefront taco stands
Did we find the perfect taco, one that stood out from all the rest?
No. The differences were so slight that it would be impossible to pick out one and say ”yes, here we have the perfect taco.”
Also, your individual taste buds and how they react to the different fillings will influence your definition of ”perfect.” Tacos al pastor was perfect for me. My companion devoured her chorizo and egg taco in ecstasy; for her, that was perfection.
What we found were tacos that were light years away from seasoned ground beef in a crisp shell. We got authentic, sizzling, made-to-order tacos, exactly what we had set out to find; our search was definitely successful.
Chicago is full of these storefront taco stands. We have listed the ones we went to, but you`re apt to see a little taqueria almost anywhere.
If you`re a lover of Mexican food, this is adventuresome, authentic eating.
And there really is only one way to recover from a long, hot day of taco- eating.
Yes, you`ve probably guessed. That`s exactly what we did. We headed up to one of our favorite outdoor patio restaurants and ordered a frosty pitcher of margaritas.
A perfect day.
