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”I love this business,” says restaurateur Christian Zeiger. ”Every night is like going to a party.”

Zeiger should know. He has been a restaurateur for 33 years, 26 of them in the United States, including the last three as owner of Amourette French Cafe in Palatine.

Just steps from busy Rand Road, the boxlike structure of Amourette appears quiet and unassuming. It is the often crowded parking lot that hints at the restaurant`s popularity. Word of the quality of its inexpensive fare, friendly knowledgeable staff, and charming country French decor has spread fast.

Chef Michel Coatrieux, who began his culinary training at the age of 14 in his native France, acknowledges that his recipes are traditional, though his style of presentation is contemporary.

As expected, the meat and seafood dishes are swathed in rich, creamy sauces. All meals are accompanied by soup or salad, delightfully prepared seasonal vegetables and potato custard, a tasty surprise.

For starters, you might try saumon marine au poivre vert (salmon marinated in green peppercorns, $5). Most entrees are in the $17 price range and include such excellent choices as the rack of lamb ($21) or the roast duckling ($14).

For a sweet finish, consider Chef Michel`s recipe for creme brulee dessert.

From Sunday through Friday, Amourette offers a four course prix-fixe menu along with the regular menu. For $15 per person ($12.50) if you dine between 5 and 6:30 p.m.) the prix-fixe option gives diners a choice of three appetizers, a choice of three entrees, a salad and choice of desserts. Among the recent appetizer choices were a chicken sausage with apples and escargot in puff pastry. Prix-fixe entree selections included filet of beef, a chicken preparation and a fish in a tarragon-mustard sauce. Among the dessert choices were a passion fruit souffle or chocolate creme brulee.

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Amourette French Cafe is at 2275 Rand Rd., Palatine; call 708-359-6220. Dinner is served from 5 to 10 p.m. seven days a week; lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. Reservations are suggested at dinner.