The red wines of France`s Rhone Valley, when done well (and more of them are being done well every year) are practically magical in seductive appeal. There is nothing restrained about them, yet they are masterful and complex. They do not require a connoisseur`s palate to be enjoyed, yet they lend themselves to study.
When the natural appeal of the Rhone grapes are combined with nearly perfect weather, the resulting wine is capable of comparison to the finest Bordeaux or Burgundy. Most important is that with the exception of some Cote- Rotie the wines are reasonably priced.
The Rhone is divided into two major areas, the Northern, or Cotes Septentrionales, and Southern, or Cotes Meridionales. In the north, the only red grape is the true syrah. The syrah is a variety that flourishes only there and a few other places on Earth.
It is possible that the Romans, who were attracted to this region for winegrowing about 500 years before Christ, already were planting the syrah because they made reference to the wine`s spicy, peppery character.
They were so impressed with the soil and climate of Cote-Rotie and Hermitage that they terraced the steep hills, among the steepest vineyards anywhere, to permit the cultivation of wine grapes. It is costly to produce wine on such steep slopes from such modestly bearing grapes, and this has caused a scarcity and a steep price increase for some of these wines.
The most famous wines of the north are Cote-Rotie and Hermitage, both of which can be aged for decades in good vintages. Cote-Rotie is the more aromatic and heady, while Hermitage has a more refined character, coming to resemble a great Bordeaux in maturity. Other good vineyards in the north are Cornas and Saint-Joseph for reds and Condrieu for whites. Some of the better Cotes-du-Rhone wines also come from vineyards in the north, for they have a larger amount of syrah in them.
In the south, the major red variety is the grenache, though it is most often blended with cinsault, mourvedre and syrah and several lesser varieties. There are some roses and white wines made in the south, but the region is prolifically red, turning out hundreds of millions of bottles of Cotes-du-Rhone, Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Cotes-du-Rhone Villages.
The red wine of the grenache, at least as it is encountered in the Southern Rhone, is not for the faint of heart. There is depth and sheer strength to old-vine grenache when it is grown in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rasteau, Vacqueyras, Gigondas or Cairanne.
Despite the muscle of the wine, at its worst it can lack a concentration of flavor at its core, seeming strong without substance. The syrah of the north seems more classically proportioned and dense by comparison to the full- bodied, warm, effusive, perhaps unfocused grenache.
The great vineyards of the south are Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, the Cotes-du-Rhone Villages and the Cotes-du-Luberon. Most of the regular Cote-du- Rhone wines also originate in the south.
The greatest ”sin” of the Rhone, north and south, is that its wines are so delicious. Nearly any of the many samples that were tasted could be drunk with pleasure, despite rank and performance. The high number of high-scoring wines is no accident.
White Rhones
Alary et Fils Haut-Coustias Cairanne Blanc 1988, Cotes-du-Rhone Villages: Dry and fresh, moderate acidity, with herbal lavender and lemon peel scents, making it excellent with light fish dishes and grilled chicken breast. $10. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/87)
Domaine Pelaquie Laudun 1989, Cotes-du-Rhone Villages: Soft and light, with lemon, peach and apple flavors. $6.50. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/ 86)
Red Rhones
Paul Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1989: Utterly amazing. Roasted squab, truffles, anise, sage, plum, cassis and an overlay of new oak in a deeply colored and flavored wine. It is in fact quite tannic, yet with such immense fruit that it is tempting to drink now. I suspect that in a few months it will close up and become awkward for a few years. After that, it will be known as one of the greatest Rhone wines of the 20th Century. $42. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR) (STAR)/98)
Guigal Cote-Rotie Cotes Brune et Blonde 1985: Spicy clove, anise, raspberry and cassis. Heady yet concentrated fruit flavors. This and the 1983 Guigal Cote-Rotie are superb wines to drink now with some aeration. $35.
((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/92)
Bernard Burgaud Cote-Rotie 1988: Rich texture with a wild mushroom, woodsy component, jasmine, anise, cassis and smoke. A voluptuous wine. $33.50. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/92)
Paul Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 1989: One of the finest Crozes-Hermitages ever tasted. Deep and dark as most Hermitage. Plum, cassis, anise, roast game, truffle and new oak vanilla. Stunning wine with a suppleness that invites one to drink it now. $18. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/
91)
M. Chapoutier Cote-Rotie 1989: Representative of the positive changes made at this estate as well as of the greatness of the vintage. This wine is dense and chewy, complex and full bodied with smoke, tar, tobacco, anise, and cassis flavors but not ready for current consumption. $30. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR) (STAR)/90)
E. Guigal Hermitage 1987: One of the finest wines of the vintage and a tribute to Guigal`s consistency as a winemaker. Smooth texture but firm, medium bodied, with truffle, raspberry, currant and black tea flavors. $32.
((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/90)
Vidal-Fleury Cote-Rotie La Chatillonne 1984, Cote Blonde: When I found out the vintage of this wine, I was dumbfounded. It is profound, even though it lacks as much power in the mid-palate fruit as the nose promises. The wine, after a few minutes of breathing, becomes mint, raspberry, olive and jasmine. A dry, concentrated and complex wine, it is nearly ready to drink though not yet mature. $29. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/89)
M. Chapoutier Cote-Rotie 1988: The first of improved wines from the large and important estate of Chapoutier founded in 1808. Plum, anise, bitter cocoa, cassis with a concentration of flavor that is commendable. The tannins are slightly hard, more characteristic of Hermitage than Cote-Rotie, but favorable for long aging. $23. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/88)
Vidal-Fleurie Saint-Joseph 1988: A superb wine, round, velvety texture with smoky, black pepper, anise, blackberry, black cherry fruit, yet dry and harmonious. The finish is like the finest bittersweet chocolate. Very dark wine for this appellation. Could be aged, though I suspect that the wine is at its best now. $15.50. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/88)
Domaine du Cayron Gigondas 1988: Michel Faraud makes one of my favorite wines from this appellation. Blackberry, brandied plum, smoke and anise in a deeply flavored wine that is not heavy. $15. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/87)
E. Guigal Cotes-du-Rhone 1988: Tastes as if it has a relatively high proportion of syrah in it. Blackberry, plum, oak and vanilla in a softly textured yet solid wine, surprisingly Burgundian in character. $12. ((STAR)
(STAR)(STAR)/87)
Domaine Les Pallieres Gigondas 1986: Forget vintage charts with this wine. A very elegant wine more subtle than most from the Rhone. A light sour cherry, truffle and vanilla aroma yield to a fuller flavored blackberry and plum palate, with good acidity and some medium hard tannins. $19. ((STAR)
(STAR)(STAR)/87)
Lionnet Cotes-du-Rhone Cuvee Syrah 1989: Superlative, deeply flavored wine with some earthiness and black truffle. Plums, black pepper, black tea and cassis. $12. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/87)
Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1988: $28. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/ 86 )
E. Guigal Gigondas 1988: $18. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/86)
E. Guigal Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1988: $24. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/86)
Noel Verset Cornas 1986: $19. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/86)
Vidal-Fleurie Vacqueyras 1988, Cotes-du-Rhone Villages: $12. ((STAR)
(STAR)(STAR)/86)
La Vieille Ferme Reserve Gold Label Cotes-du-Rhone 1988: $9. ((STAR)
(STAR)(STAR)/86)
Domaine le Chateau Cotes-du-Rhone 1989: $8. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/85)
Domaine de la Mordoree Lirac 1989: $12. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/85)
Georges Duboeuf Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1989: $14. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/85)
M. Chapoutier Saint-Joseph 1989: $14. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/84)
Georges Duboeuf Cote-Rotie Domaine de la Rousse 1989: $24.((STAR)(STAR)
(STA R)/84)
Domaine Vidal-Fleury Cote-Rotie 1988: Cotes Brune et Blonde. $33. ((STAR) (STAR)(STAR)/84)
Chateau des Roques Cuvee Noe Vacqueyras 1988: $11.50. ((STAR)(STAR)
(STAR)/8 3)
Coudelet de Beaucastel Cotes-du-Rhone 1989: $18. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/83)
Joel Champet Cote-Rotie La Vialliere 1986: $22. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/83)
M. Chapoutier Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1989: $18. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/83)
Georges Duboeuf Crozes-Hermitage 1989: $9.((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/83)
Cave Collonge Domaine la Negociale Crozes-Hermitage 1988: $11. ((STAR)
(STAR)(STAR)/82)
Chateau la Roquette Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1988: $15. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/
82)
Domaine de Soumade Rasteau 1988, Cotes-du-Rhone Villages: $11.75. ((STAR) (STAR)(STAR)/82)
La Vieille Ferme Cotes du Ventoux 1989: $7.50. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/81)
Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1987: $18. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/80)
Georges Duboeuf Domaine du Moulins 1990: $7. ((STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/80)
Chateau d`Aigueville Cotes-du-Rhone 1989: $6.50. ((STAR)(STAR)/79)
Domaine du Gour de Chaule Gigondas 1988: $16. ((STAR)(STAR)/78)
Domaine Durieu Cotes-du-Rhone Villages 1988: $8. ((STAR)(STAR)/69)
Star/point system
(STAR) 60-69 points (poor)
(STAR)(STAR) 70-79 points (average)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR) 80-89 points (good)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR) 90-100 points (outstanding)
(outstanding value)
