Just as women are learning to streamline their wardrobes, men are adding a little life to theirs.
Last week, men`s fashion received a glamorous shot in the arm as three major American designers-Calvin Klein, Donna Karan and Michael Kors-launched their fall `92 men`s collections with the kind of excitement usually reserved for women`s fashion.
It was a week of long lines, packed showrooms and celebrity spotting with the newly blond (again) Madonna and Matthew Modine at Klein`s and Liza Minnelli and Patti LaBelle popping up at Karan`s.
But the real news of the week was just how wearable and masculine the clothes were; it was the kind of fashion that one could truly envision on active men-albeit rich ones.
Look who`s back
After a five-year hiatus from the menswear arena, Klein presented a collection that has the same soothing fluidity and neutral tones of his women`s line. In featherweight fabrics, the fit was easy, even slouchy, with the kind of confidence found in Italian men`s clothes-which makes sense since the line is being produced by Gruppo/GFT, the Italian corporation which also produces Giorgio Armani.
But it wouldn`t be Klein without a dose of unabashed sexuality. He ended his runway show with a parade of 28 modern-day, Greek-like gods in underwear, all without visible means of support. A statment so bold, even The Blond One sat up and paid attention.
Karan, who has been testing the waters for the past year, formally launched a full-scale men`s line on about 40 male models standing on platforms with a few female models thrown in for good measure.
Borrowing what she terms ”the functionality and sensuality” of her women`s collection, Karan focuses on day-to-evening black suits, stretch fabrics, leather coatings and all the cashmere a man would ever want, including a cashmere towel for after the workout.
Of course, it wouldn`t be Karan without a bodysuit. She has two: a shirt with its own boxers as well as one that converts with buttons for the man not quite sure.
Simple and smooth
The best part of Michael Kors` collection, produced by Compagnia Internazionale Abbigliamento which also does his Kors bridge line for women, was how refreshingly simple it was.
Who can argue with cashmere sweats, camel duffles, pea coats, leather trenches and tailored suits subtly injected with the ease of stretch? Kors keeps it tonal with matching sweaters, ties and even coats. And to ensure a smooth line, Kors does a bodysuit with BVD`s sewn right onto Oxford shirts or cotton T-shirts.
Not to be outdone, Joseph Abboud presented J.O.E. (Just One Earth), his new sportswear line, under the big whale at the Natural Museum of History. The line, inspired by environmental elements, is rugged, richly colored and has all the textural mixes for which Abboud is known. For his signature collection, Abboud contrasted black leather with charcoal suiting and offered some of the best tuxedos in town.
Calling it the ”Best of Both Worlds”-with an original song to match, Hartmarx Corp. presented its new KM by Krizia collection in a theater with Hartmarx`s chief operating officer Bert Hand and Krizia`s chairman Aldo Pinto taking bows at the end. The sportswear collection was actually quite good, conjuring up images of a Cary Grant, with classic lines and sophisticated colorings tempered with a bit of swagger.
Only for the very brave
Issac Mizrahi likes fashion with a capital ”F.” Strictly for the young at heart-or those involved in mid-life crises-Mizrahi`s line features such eccentricities as printed taffeta shirts tucked into velour jeans, superwide ties and oddly proportioned suits. He hit some conventional notes with his terrific modern-day field jackets and racy jodhpurs.
Bill Robinson keeps his loyal following by offering great basics beautifully styled. His brightly toned flannel sports jackets are versatile enough to dress up with neutral pants or throw over a T-shirt and jeans.
Alexander Julian, another dependable designer, employs lots of color with tartans and with striped shirts and matching ties. He likes his silhouettes slouchy with paperbag waists and great unconstructed jackets.
Basco, designed by Lance Karesh, offers sturdy, boxy sportswear inspired by industrial workers and utilitarian needs. The line was Macho Man sportswear at its best, with oiled leather jackets and coats, hand-knit sweaters and relaxed pants.
The wine-and-cheese set
Designer Sabato Russo`s line offers an understated coolness best suited for the River North man who likes to dress in dark colors. Sabato adds rich details like subtle embroidery, fine textures and deep tones to keep it interesting.
In contrast, Andrew Fezza`s fall collection is for the man who wants to be noticed. Classic sportswear is transformed with bold checks, oversized geometrics and abstract designs. If the sportswear doesn`t get him attention, the lace-up black cycle fashions by the new Fez line will.
And, the opening sentence of designer Tommy Hilfiger`s press release informs us that he is ”widely acclaimed as the leading American menswear designer of the `90s.” Funny description, because for fall he featured an abundance of last year`s tartan styles as well as his usual fare of sporty basics. Nothing wrong with it, but hardly leading the direction of fashion to come.
Calvin Klein
