If you`ve been to Cabo, you know its ad campaign speaks the truth: Going back is not a matter of ”if,” but ”when.” So, if you`ve been there, get packing, but be prepared for a few more towels on the beach this season.
Between advertising and just plain word-of-mouth, Cabo has achieved more than mere name recognition-it has become a bonafide Destination.
If you can, schedule your trip to coincide with the vacation plans of another visitor who likes to go back to these warm coastal waters: Every December through March, the California gray whales take up residence at the tip of Mexico`s Baja Peninsula, sounding and breaching in full view of their legged mammalian cousins.
If you spend some time on the beaches during those months, you`re likely to see a long barnacled back breaking the surface of the sea just beyond the breakwater. Rent one of the pangas (small skiffs) and play hide-and-seek on the high seas, where you can encounter these astounding animals at close range.
Earlier this year, a group of snorkelers found themselves sharing the waters off Los Arcos (Cabo`s rock arches) with a mother and baby gray. Swimming with whales? Remember, this is Land`s End, where anything is possible.
Don`t be dismayed if your travel plans don`t include the whale-watching months, however; Cabo San Lucas offers plenty of diversions throughout the year.
A fishing mecca
In October and December, the Bisbee and Capital Tournaments draw sport fishermen to compete in Cabo`s oldest water sport: The first tourists to Cabo (in the late 1940s) were men after marlin.
Scuba aficionados prefer the steamy summers, when warmer waters embrace Cabo`s highly respected dive sites.
Most activity in Cabo is geared toward daylight, however, so night life for many consists of turning in early to be fresh for the next day`s pursuits. A faithful following rises with the local fishermen and finds its way to the marina before daybreak; if you join them, stop at the taqueria adjacent to the marina for the best breakfast in Cabo-a steaming shrimp taco-before heading out to sea.
Water sports figure strongly in Cabo, and the beaches are the hub of activity during the long days-particularly Playa el Medano (Main Beach), where entrepreneurs will equip you for windsurfing, jet-skiing, waterskiing, parasailing and surfing-the most difficult part will be wending your way through the crazy quilt of peddler`s wares and the supine bodies that blanket the sand between you and water`s edge.
If it is scuba (or the ”snuba”) you`re after, bypass the beachfront offers and head for the Amigos del Mar dive shop across from the marina. The experienced staff will give you your money`s worth, especially if you`re lucky enough to have Pepe as your instructor. In addition to his great grin, he is locally famous for his ability to lure the reticent pulpos (octopuses) from hiding.
Beach for lovers
And if you venture into the water only once, make it the five-minute panga ride across the bay to Playa de Amor (Lover`s Beach). Short of swimming a considerable distance, there is no other way to reach this bit of sand that bridges the surf of the Pacific on one side and the clear snorkeling waters of the Sea of Cortez on the other-rock formations block access from land.
Overlook the litter; this geographical oddity is an unparalleled place to snorkel and soak up sun.
Prefer shopping over seafaring? Ignore the temptation to buy silver from the beach peddlers and make the short hike over to the handcrafts market at the marina. The jewelry there is comparable in quality to that found in the expensive shops in town, and you are allowed the fun of bargaining.
Among the clutter of storefronts in town, one in particular is worth seeking out: Christa`s (on Lazaro Cardenas) is artfully crammed with handcrafts from throughout Mexico and offers memorable gifts at reasonable prices.
If you schedule your market trip for late afternoon, you`ll be in prime position to see the parade of charter boats stream in, flying flags of various colors to indicate their catches-blue for marlin, white for sailfish, yellow for dorado.
Stay to watch as the trophies are strung up for photographs and filleted on the spot amid squadrons of pelicans waiting patiently for scraps.
Go ahead and nap
Then sneak back to your hotel for a siesta and a shower before heading over to the Pacific side of town for the sunset. A good vantage point for that is the Hotel Solmar`s pool bar, where the Four Mariachis will serenade you with your choice of ”happy” or ”romantico,” peppering both with their spicy sense of humor.
Or ride a moped over the Pedregal (the cliff where million-dollar mansions jut out over the ocean) to the beach on the far side, where you can spread a blanket, build a beach fire, and soak up the salmon and lavender hues in solitude.
Ready for hors d`oeuvres? Tackle the steep trek up the cliff to the Whale Watcher`s Bar, a friendly enclave nestled into the rock at the Hotel Finisterra. The name is not boastful-we did spot the blow of a whale on our first visit. But the real drawing card (one that brought us back on subsequent evenings) is a different kind of find: this bar serves the best nachos in Baja, laden with black beans, fresh mushrooms (seemingly a rarity here) and a sizable sprig of cilantro.
For entree-size appetites, a couple of secrets are tucked just off Playa el Medano. Rey Sol offers a cool cross-breeze under a weathered jalapa roof, intermittent visits by mariachis of potluck talent and some of the best fish in Cabo. The seafood platter is popular, but residents here ask the chef to grill the catch of the day and come for breakfast.
Next door, Pavo Real serves comparable fish amid lush bougainvillea, but you will pay slightly more for the ambience.
A romantic interlude
For ”romantico,” Las Palmas wins hands-down. A bustling beach bar by day, this restaurant is transformed each evening when waiters float a starched white tablecloth over each table, add a hurricane candle and carefully place the mismatched indigo-and-white china.
If you request one of the handful of tables placed out on the sand, you can kick off your shoes, tickle your toes, and eat lobster by candlelight as the festive lights of the shrimp boats bob in the bay.
Still ready for ”mas” (more)? Join other hardy souls at El Squid Roe, the lively Cabo outpost of the Carlos & Charlie`s chain, where merriment spills out onto Avenida Lazaro Cardenas until 4 a.m.
If the sun has sapped your desire to dance, settle for a beach walk under some of the clearest skies in the Western Hemisphere; pack a star-chart in your suitcase to identify constellations not visible in northern skies.
Then tuck in for the night, and forget about the alarm clock unless you have an early morning appointment with a boat captain. Cabo San Lucas has its own sense of timing; if you let yourself settle into its natural rhythm, you will then begin to understand why the whales make the 10,000-mile journey from Arctic waters-the longest migration of any mammal-just to get to this place.
Going to Cabo San Lucas and staying there
Getting there: Mexicana, Aero California and Alaska Air fly to the 3-year-old airport at San Jose Del Cabo, a 25-minute cab ride from Cabo San Lucas. Apple Vacations currently offers the only non-stop flight to Cabo from Chicago, purchased as part of a package or by itself.
Most large hotels offer shuttle service to and from the airport, although service is spotty; shuttles often wait for several flights to arrive to fill the shuttle. Taxi service costs $25 one way.
– Getting around: Car rentals are available at the airport, at most hotels and at agency outposts in town. Daily rates average $35. Mopeds and bikes are available for rental, and most restaurants, sites of interest and shopping are within walking distance of hotels.
– Where to stay: I have included the two newest resorts (the Melia San Lucas and the Plaza Las Glorias) in this list, but my favorites are the older hotels, mostly because of their unequaled grace.
Rates (subject to change) are per room and do not include 15 percent federal tax or 10 percent service charge.
Finnisterra: Boulevard Marina; 684 3-000. For reservations in the United States: 714-727-3933 or 800-347-2252. Beach, pool, restaurant, bar, shops, health spa, tour desk.
Hacienda Beach Resort: Across from the marina on Playa El Medano; 684/
3-0122. Reservations in the U.S.: Box 48872, Los Angeles, Calif. 90048;
213-852-0824. Rates: $90-$146, suites $170-$260. Beach, pool, aquatic center, restaurant, bar, shops, airport shuttle.
Hotel Solmar: Boulevard Marina; 684/3-0022. Reservations in the U.S.: Box 383, Pacific Palisades, Calif. 90272; 213-459-9861 or 800-344-3349. Rates:
$80-$90, $110-$160 suites. (No meals included.) Pool, beach, aquatic center, tennis, sport fishing, car rental, restaurant, bars, shops.
Melia San Lucas: Playa El Medano; 684/3-1220. Reservations in the U.S.:
800-336-3542. Rates: $125-$185. Pool, beach club, restaurants, bars, satellite TV, room service, international direct-dial phones, central air.
Plaza las Glorias: Boulevard Marina; 684/3-1220. Reservations in the U.S.: Sidek International, Suite 260, 340 N. Belt St., Houston, Texas 77268;
713-448-2829 or 800-342-6446. Rates: $60-$90, $110 suite. Pool, beach club, restaurants, bars, shopping center, disco, satellite TV, central air.
