Thanks to following food trends, there has been no lack of pasta or exotic grains on my plate of late. But every so often I remind myself I didn`t grow up in a noodle- or a rice-oriented household. I grew up eating potatoes, and they still remain at the top of my personal comfort-food list.
I`m prompted to share this reflection by the arrival of a new book, ”A Passion for Potatoes” (HarperCollins, $28 hardcover, $13 paperback). The author is Lydie Marshall, a delightful Frenchwoman who teaches cooking in New York City. Her passion is pure, and it extends well beyond dishes prepared with a French accent.
With her European perspective, she points out that our helter-skelter system of nomenclature (which identifies some potatoes by color, others by place of origin and still others by use) promotes such confusion that it`s no surprise most markets stock half a dozen or less of the hundreds of existing varieties. Her own potato chart stops at 11 types.
But if we don`t use the full spectrum of potato varieties, we surely do take advantage of the wide variety of methods for preparing them. I think I prefer my potatoes roasted-until I partake of a steaming, golden gratin, or have them fried in the French manner, or look upon a giant Idaho perfectly baked or mashed, or taste some small new potatoes steamed as part of a clambake, or wake up to hash browns on a weekend morning, or reach for a creamy potato salad at a summer`s picnic. . . .
I won`t even mention potato bread, tiny potatoes stuffed with caviar or various savory potato pies and cakes.
As for recipes, Oprah Winfrey`s horseradish-flavored mashed potatoes are the stuff of legends. The great Swiss chef Fredy Girardet`s potato gratin is the simplest and best one I know. Now I`ll stand aside and let the other recipes that follow speak for themselves.
OPRAH`S POTATOES
12 to 14 servings
2 1/2 pounds red potatoes
2 1/2 pounds Idaho potatoes
10 ounces (2 1/2 sticks) butter, cut in pieces
1 to 1 1/4 cup bottled horseradish sauce
1 1/2 cups whipping cream or whole milk
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1. Wash potatoes well, leaving the skins on, and cut them in half. Transfer to a large pot or kettle and cover with water. Bring water to a boil, lower heat to a simmer and cook until potatoes are very tender, about 25 minutes.
2. Drain the potatoes well and return to the pot. (Do not peel them.) Add butter and begin to mash by hand. Add horseradish sauce, cream, salt and pepper and continue to mash until texture is creamy but still slightly lumpy. -From chef Scott Foster, The Eccentric
JACQUES PEPIN`S GOOD-FOR-YOU MASHED POTATOES AND CARROTS
Four to six servings
3/4 pound peeled potatoes, cut into 2-inch chunks
1/2 pound peeled carrots, cut into 2-inch chunks
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Place the potatoes, carrots and garlic in a pot and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and cook until the vegetables are soft, about 20 minutes.
2. Drain, reserving the liquid and crush the vegetables slightly. Place in the bowl of a food processor with 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid, the butter, salt and pepper. Process until just combined.
LYDIE MARSHALL`S POTATO AND RED-PEPPER SOUP
Six servings
1 pound russet potatoes, peeled and diced into 1-inch cubes (about 3 cups)
1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced (about 1 cup)
1 celery stalk, diced (about 1 cup)
1 onion, peeled and diced (about 1 cup)
1 pound chicken backs, cut up
1 tablespoon salt
Hot-pepper sauce
1. In a stockpot, cover the vegetables and chicken bones with 6 cups cold salted water and bring to a boil. Skim off the scum that rises to the top. Partially cover and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 1 hour.
2. Strain into a bowl. Pick through the solids to remove all chicken bones (pick the meat off the bones and set aside for the soup or for sandwiches.) Return vegetables to the broth.
3. Process the soup in a food processor or through a food mill. Reheat, adding a few drops of hot-pepper sauce and more salt, if needed.
-From ”A Passion for Potatoes”
PAPAGUS POTATO SALATA
Six to eight servings
2 pounds Idaho potatoes
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
1/3 to 1/2 cup small-dice red onion
1/2 cup half-and-half
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
2 tablespoons fresh-chopped parsley
1. Wash potatoes under cold water, peel and cut into 1-inch pieces. Transfer to a pan and cover with cold water. Bring water to a boil, lower heat and simmer potatoes until soft, about 15 minutes.
2. Drain potatoes, return to pan and allow them to steam dry for 2 minutes. Add olive oil, vinegar, onion and half-and-half. Mix well with the hot potatoes. Add salt, pepper and parsley. Taste and adjust seasoning as desired.
3. Transfer to a serving bowl and chill until shortly before serving.
-From chef Jonathan Fox, Papagus
POTATO GRATIN GIRARDET
Four servings
1 pound potatoes
1 small clove garlic
3/4 cup whole milk
Salt and pepper
1 pinch cayenne pepper
Nutmeg
6 tablespoons whipping cream
1 1/2 tablespoons butter
1. Peel the potatoes and cut them into slices 1/8-inch thick. Do not wash the slices. Mince the garlic and mix it in with the potato slices. Put the potatoes and garlic in a heavy pan or flameproof casserole with just enough of the milk to cover the potatoes. Season with salt, pepper, cayenne and a few gratings of nutmeg.
2. Put the pan over high heat and let the potatoes cook for 4 or 5 minutes, until the milk has mixed well with the potato starch. Then add 3 tablespoons of the cream and bring the contents of the pan to a boil again. Remove from the heat and adjust the seasoning if needed.
3. Butter a 9 1/2-inch gratin dish. Put in the potatoes and the cooking liquid and then add the rest of the cream, mixing it in with your hands to make sure it penetrates. Dot the butter over the surface.
4. Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Bake the gratin on the bottom rack of the oven for 1 1/2 hours.
-From ”The Cuisine of Fredy Girardet” (Morrow)
PUMP ROOM POTATO-SWEET PEPPER HASH
Six servings
3 large Idaho potatoes
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup seeded and diced red bell pepper
1/4 cup seeded and diced green bell pepper
1/4 cup seeded and diced yellow bell pepper
1/2 cup diced Spanish onion
Salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons chopped flatleaf parsley, or more to taste
1 tablespoon chopped chives, or more to taste
1. Wash potatoes, cut in half, place in a pan and cover with cold water. Bring water to a boil and simmer potatoes until tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
2. Drain potatoes and allow them to cool. Peel and cube them. Reserve until ready to finish dish.
3. Heat olive oil in a non-stick pan. Add the potatoes and cook, tossing frequently, until golden brown. Add the bell peppers and onion and continue to cook until they are soft. Add salt, pepper and herbs. Stir well, correct seasoning and serve.
-From chef Andrew Seliassio, the Pump Room
