Probably the most that outsiders ever know about Highwood is the lineup of restaurants. And that makes sense, because there are some great ones. But in getting there, it`s impossible not to notice that this is not the stereotypical North Shore town.
Right from the start, Highwood was different. Unlike the rest of the North Shore, this enclave surrounded by Highland Park and Ft. Sheridan was ethnic, working class and ”wet.”
Dante Greco, 62, president and co-founder of the Bank of Highwood, said,
”Growing up, we always felt we had to work a little harder than everyone else just to prove that people from Highwood were the equal of their neighbors. We had to overcome other people`s prejudices, and in the process, we developed a strong feeling of camaraderie.”
Old images linger, and outsiders still tend to dismiss Highwood as nothing more than a restaurant row. Resident Debra Warren, 32, finds their attitude puzzling. ”People simply don`t know the real Highwood,” she contended. ”This has always been a close-knit, family-oriented community, a place where everybody knows everybody else.”
”Highwood has traditionally been a point of entry for recent immigrants,” said Alice Curley Conway, 84. ”It`s a very democratic town, and residents don`t really make class distinctions. Anyone who`s lived here keeps a special place in their hearts for Highwood.”
Conway`s local roots date to 1868, the year her grandfather, Tom Curley, moved from County Mayo, Ireland, with his wife and four small children. At his suggestion, the name Highwood (high ground surrounded by woods) was adopted in 1868, though the town wasn`t offically incorporated until Jan. 11, 1887. Shortly thereafter, the community changed its name to Ft. Sheridan Village in honor of the recently constructed military post. The similarity proved confusing, and the name Highwood was restored on Aug. 29, 1904.
Name change aside, Ft. Sheridan has always played a significant role in Highwood`s development. Saloons were licensed in 1893, and the town was soon dubbed ”Whiskey Junction.” Soldiers and nearby residents flocked to Highwood to indulge both their thirst for liquor and their passion for gambling.
Early attempts at reform led to the establishment of illegal taverns. In the April 1908 election, civic-minded residents voted 115 to 55 to annex their town to liquor-abstaining Highland Park. Voters in Highland Park, on the other hand, vetoed the resolution 524 to 285.
Reform efforts persisted, and law-abiding citizens eventually had their way. During this same period, Italian immigrants began arriving in ever-increasing numbers, most of them from the northern province of Modena.
”The transition was very peaceful, just as it had been when the Irish joined the original Swedish and German settlers,” Conway said. ”Everyone thought of themselves as Americans, and we all participated equally in community life.”
Determining the exact order of arrival of the Italians is almost impossible. Chamber of Commerce director Bruno Bertucci`s father is believed to have arrived in 1905. What is known for certain is that 90 years later, the population of Highwood remains predominantly Italian. Impressed with the opportunities for employment, the early arrivals encouraged their friends and relatives to join them. Many heeded their advice.
Bertucci explained, ”Highwood was-and still is-surrounded by much more affluent towns. Most of the men found work as laborers or landscapers, the women as domestics, seamstresses or laundresses. It was hard work, but at least there were jobs.”
In her book ”Houses With Names,” Adria Bernardi, 35, indicates that sometime in the mid-`20s, Highwood`s Italian population started to outnumber the Swedes. By 1927, 41 percent of the children graduating from Oak Terrace Elementary School had Italian surnames; four years earlier, the figure was zero.
Highwood`s churches were deeply affected by the shift in population. Of the three houses of worship that once existed, only St. James Catholic Church survives. Zion Lutheran Church moved to Deerfield in 1955 after 81 years in Highwood, and Swedish Methodist Church merged with Grace Methodist Church of Highland Park before dissolving altogether.
Highwood American Legion Post 501 occupies Swedish Methodist`s former site. Italian-owned businesses, such as Santi Brothers Grocers, Del Rio Restaurant and Sherony Hardware, began popping up along Sheridan and Green Bay Roads during the affluent `20s.
Though hard times returned during the Depression, World War II brought renewed prosperity. Soldiers from Ft. Sheridan poured into town, eventually causing the number of taverns to rise to an all-time high of 37.
Gabriel Viti, 55, owner of Guy Viti Insurance Agency, remembered: ”The troops used to march through the streets in formation, and there were literally thousands of them. Spirits were high, everyone really supported the war effort.”
Many of the taverns evolved into full-service restaurants. Willie Vole`s My Favorite Inn was one of the first. Vole, 74, owned a successful Highwood tavern for several years before opening his current location in 1950. His original menu concentrated on hot sandwiches, but dishes such as chicken cacciatore and ravioli al forno were soon added.
Sometime in 1951, Vole started serving T-bones and club steaks and offering the latter topped with butter and Parmesan. The restaurant, which has never had an identifying sign over the door, let alone advertised, has been mobbed ever since.
Like the Italians before them, members of Highwood`s growing Hispanic community work primarily as laborers. Estela Ramos, a Bank of Highwood employee and a member of the local Human Relations Commission, estimates that Hispanics currently account for about 25 percent of the town`s population of 5,300, though others put the figure at closer to 20 percent. According to Ramos, the newcomers have, for the most part, been well received.
Fidel Ghini has been Highwood`s mayor since 1969 and a resident for more than 60 years. Taking the long view, he concluded, ”Transition has always been a part of Highwood`s history. When I moved here at age 11, the Italians were the newcomers. We found work, made a living and raised our children. What the Hispanics are experiencing now is the same thing we went through years ago. The transition was successful then, and it will be successful now. This has always been a good little town.”
And among the things making it a good little town are those restaurants and food shops, which attract a wide following. And if you don`t know Highwood, here is a sampling:
Restaurants
– Alouette, 440 Green Bay Rd., 708-433-5600. Open since 1978, the restaurant is very French and very upscale. The a la carte menu changes monthly, as does the four-course, prix-fixe option ($15) offered Sunday through Friday. Expect to find dishes such as rack of lamb roasted with Dijon mustard and garlic and veal chop sauteed with shiitake mushrooms and finished with Bordelaise sauce. Dinner entrees are priced from $9.75, including a choice of soup or salad. Reservations. Hours: 5 p.m.-midnight daily.
– Aussie`s Seafood Restaurant, 405 Sheridan Rd., 708-432-7080. The accent is Australian, and the menu includes everything from sandwiches and salads to fresh fish and chops. Lighter fare is priced from $5.95, dinner entrees from $9.95. The latter includes soup or salad, a choice of starch and a vegetable. Reservations. Hours: 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 4:30-9 p.m. Sunday.
– Bertucci`s Restaurant, 247 Green Bay Rd., 708-432-6663. Recently renovated, this rambling, roadhouse-style restaurant offers outdoor seating during the warmer months and a year-round repertoire of pizza, pasta, steaks, seafood and Italian specialties. Possibilities include chicken Vesuvio, grilled Norwegian salmon, New York strip steak with green peppercorn sauce and shiitake mushrooms, and tortellacci. Reservations. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday, 4-11 p.m. Saturday, 4-9 p.m. Sunday. Dinner entrees priced from $9.95, including vegetable and a choice of soup or salad.
– Buffo`s, 431 Sheridan Rd., 708-433-0301. A casual, menu-on-the-wall, dine-in/carryout spot that specializes in pizza and sandwiches. Pizza toppings run the gamut from sausage, pepperoni and mushrooms to anchovies, Canadian bacon and pineapple. Sandwiches are priced from $1.65, pizzas from $3.30. Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday.
– Cafe Alexander, 333 Waukegan Ave., 708-432-8969. The decor blends sleek with cozy while the breakfast/lunch menu offers a similarly balanced mix of hearty and light. Possibilities include grilled ribeye steak with two eggs, hash browns, toast, fresh fruit garnish and coffee ($5.95); homemade Italian sausage with green peppers and fries ($3.95); entree salads ($4.75); spaghetti with a choice of soup or salad ($5.25); and omelettes with hash browns and toast (from $3.25). Hours: 5:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday, 6 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday, 7 a.m.-1 p.m. Sunday.
– Del Rio Restaurant, 228 Green Bay Rd., 708-432-4608. Founded in 1923, Del Rio is a veritable North Shore landmark. Included on the menu are chicken cacciatore, veal Parmigiana, shrimp scampi and a wide variety of pastas. The restaurant has four wine cellars containing more than 6,000 different wines. Entrees are priced from $10.50, including salad. Reservations for parties of six or more. Hours: 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 5-9 p.m. Sunday.
– Fontana Di Trevi, 307 Waukegan Ave., 708-433-8780. Included on the menu are quail alla cacciatore ($10.95); linguini Capriciosi done with fresh tomatoes and baby shrimp ($12.95); veal bracciolette done with salami, onion, mortadella, prosciutto, cheese and mushrooms ($15.95); and pizza (from $8). Reservations for parties of six or more. Dinner entrees priced from $8.95, including soup or salad. Hours: from 4:30 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday.
– Froggy`s French Cafe, 306 Green Bay Rd., 708-433-7080. A comfortable, bistro-style French restaurant known for dishes such as cassoulet and lobster with vanilla sauce. The six-course, prix-fixe menu is $23.95 at dinner, $20.95 at lunch. A la carte dinner entrees are priced from $10.95, including salad. Menus change monthly. Dinner reservations for parties of six or more. Hours:
11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. 2 p.m. Monday-Friday, 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday.
– GoodRibs a Rib Joint, 810 Sheridan Rd., 708-432-1030. Offering both on-site dining and carryout, this 2-year-old spot does beef ribs in addition to baby back pork ribs. Also on the menu are barbecued chicken, boneless breast of chicken and a quartet of sandwiches. Sandwiches from $4.25, entrees from $5.45. Reservations for six or more. Hours: 5-9 p.m. Monday, Wednesday-Friday; 5-10 p.m. Saturday; 5-8 p.m. Sunday.
– Kin`s Chinese Restaurant, 39 Highwood Ave., 708-432-8121. Included on the menu at this 50-seat restaurant are a variety of Cantonese and Mandarin dishes. Reservations. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Monday-Friday, 4:30-9:30 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
– Las Tres Hermanas, 329 Waukegan Ave., 708-432-0774. Included on the menu are dishes such as huevos (eggs) a la Mexicana ($4), fajitas ($8.65), burritos
(from $4.45), chimichangas ($5.50) and enchiladas en mole ($6.10). Menudo
(tripe soup) is always available on weekends. Hours: noon-9 p.m. Thursday-Tuesday.
– Little Italy Restaurant, 47 Highwood Ave., 708-432-0070. Cozy and comfortable, this 55-seat restaurant offers a Pan-Italian menu. Possibilities include calamari salad done with green beans, olives and tomatoes ($8.95 and $11.95); veal cacciatore ($13.95); scampi Vesuvio ($15.95); and pasta primavera with marinara sauce ($11.50). Dinner entrees priced from $8.95, including soup or salad. Hours: 4-11 p.m. daily.
– Mario`s Green Bay Inn Restaurant, 258 Green Bay Rd., 708-433-0306. This casual spot offers the same menu at both lunch and dinner. Possibilities include mostaccioli ($6.95), Italian sausage
$3.50), Pizza (from $4.75) and tortellacci ($8.50). Reservations. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, 4-10 p.m. Sunday.
– Mexico Lindo, 830 Sheridan Rd., 708-432-6734. Specialities include fajitas, enchilada suizas, margaritas and quesadillas. Dinner entrees from $6.50. Reservations for parties of six or more. Hours: 11-9:30 p.m. Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday. Open Tuesday starting in April.
– Moran`s Corner Pub, 9 Highwood Ave., 708-432-6141. Expect to find Guinness and Harp on tap and a simple, pub-style menu. Food prices range from $1.75 for a hot dog to $4.75 for ribeye steak. The soups and chili are all homemade. Hours: 10:30 a.m.-1 a.m. Monday-Thursday, 10:30 a.m.-2 a.m. Friday-Saturday. Closed Sunday.
– Nite `N Gale, 346 Waukegan Ave., 708-432-5244. An expansive restaurant that offers a similarly expansive menu, everything from pizzas and burgers to steaks, pasta, barbecued ribs and fresh fish. Sandwiches from $5.95; entrees from $8, including salad. Reservations for parties of six or more. Hours:
11a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday, 4-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 4 p.m.-midnight Friday, 4 p.m.-midnight Saturday, 4-9 p.m. Sunday.
– Panico`s The Italian Restaurant, 310 Green Bay Rd., 708-433-7034. Expect to find an open kitchen, homemade garlic rolls and a menu with a southern Italian accent. Possibilities include eggplant Parmigiana with marinara sauce, veal forte done with sun-dried tomatoes and hot spicy peppers, steaks, chops and seafood. Dinner entrees priced from $7.95 on weekdays, $8.50 on weekends. A choice of soup or salad is included. Hours: 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 4:30-9:30 p.m. Sunday.
– Pierantoni`s Restaurant, 406 Green Bay Rd., 708-432-3576. Even the vinegar is homemade at this comfortable, unpretentious restaurant. Crowd pleasers include tortellini soup and ravioli stuffed with spinach, meat and cheese and finished with a garlic-butter sauce. A la carte entrees from $6.50, complete dinners from $8. Hours: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, 5-10 p.m. Tuesday- Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 4-10 p.m. Sunday.
– Rainbows Bar & Grill, 432 Sheridan Rd., 708-432-9604. The menu leads off with snacks and starters and finishes up with entrees such as baby back ribs, fried shrimp and barbecued chicken breasts. In between, there are burgers, pizza and a variety of sandwiches. Daily specials are not available for carry- out. Sandwiches priced from $2, entrees from $6. Hours: 10 a.m.-1 a.m. Monday-Thursday, 10 a.m.-2 a.m. Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Sunday.
– Two Guys From Italy, 410 Sheridan Rd., 708-432-2889. A well-established restaurant that recently moved to more spacious quarters, this spot offers a wide variety of Italian dishes. At dinner, pastas (from $8.95) are served with soup and salad, entrees (from $8.95) with a choice of soup or salad and a side dish of mostaccioli. Pizza is available throughout the day. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. Dinner 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Friday, 5-11 p.m. Saturday.
– Virginia`s Restaurant, 415 Sheridan Rd., 708-433-1555. A casual lunchroom that offers a mix of counter and booth seating. Dinner entrees from $5.95, including soup or salad and a choice of potato. Hours: 6 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 7 a.m.-11:30 a.m. Sunday.
– Washington Gardens, 256 Green Bay Rd., 708-432-0309. There`s lots of pasta, chicken, and veal on the menu, along with fish dishes such as salmon stimpinada done with white wine, red-wine vinegar and a blend of orange and lemon juice; scallop Livornese finished with marinara sauce and presented over squid ink pasta; and a mix of salmon, bay scallops and shrimp with Alfredo sauce and served on a bed of tomato linguini. Entrees priced from $8.95, including salad. Hours: from 5 p.m. daily.
– Willie`s My Favorite Inn, 11 Highwood Ave., 708-432-5121. Steak al forno finished with a mix of butter and Parmesan is the speciality of the house. Additional possibilities include chicken cacciatore, shrimp al forno and a variety of pasta dishes. Entrees priced from $9.25, including salad. Hours 5-9:30 p.m. Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, 5-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 4:30-9 p.m. Sunday.
Speciality food shops
– Bacio Foods, 424 Sheridan Rd., 708-432-1090. A very Italian grocery offering everything from imported olive oil to Italian-language videos. The pastries and cookies make calorie counting positively sinful. Hours: 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday.
– Gourmet Frog, 316 Green Bay Rd., 708-433-7038. French pastries are the piece de resistance, and it would be foolish to resist. The carryout entrees, which must be ordered at least 30 minutes prior to pickup, are the same as those served at Froggy`s French Cafe. Hours: 9:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday.
– Gran Sasso, 260 Green Bay Rd., 708-433-1131. Expect to find prosciutto from Parma, freshly made baked goods, and a nice selection of imported foods. Also available are pasta bowls, espresso pots, pasta makers and prepared sandwiches. Two small cafe tables are available for on-site dining. Hours: 9 a.m.-6p.m. Monday-Saturday.
– Pastificio!, 122 Highwood Ave., 708-432-5459. This spot offers a wide variety of entrees, freshly made pasta, soups, sauces and desserts, much of it conveniently packaged and oven-ready. Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday.
– Poeta`s Food Market, 520 Green Bay Rd., 708-432-3037. A full-service grocery with an Italian accent and a meat counter filled with made-on-site sausage
(including a low-fat chicken), seasoned ribs and chicken, turkey burgers and aged-on-site meats. Also available are homemade lasagna, pasta with prosciutto, and meatballs with sauce. Hours: 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday.




