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Who says risotto has to be made with imported rice? It could well be that arborio or paella rices (from Italy and Spain, respectively) are the ideal varieties. Those rounded, medium-grain rices release just enough starch to enhance the creamy texture, while perfectly retaining a firm, al dente texture.

But at $2.50 to $5 for a pound, there has to be a better (read: cheaper)

way.

There is.

I tried preparing risotto with good old, all-American white rice. I hate to admit it, but I was a little uneasy-so ingrained is that proper-rice tenet. But guess what? It was wonderful.

There are several reasons I`m particularly fond of the following recipe, apart from my little discovery. Flavor is only one of them.

This is a pretty dish, lively with colors-bits of diced carrot and kernels of fresh corn, flecks of chopped parsley and slices of mushroom.

Texture takes over with the first bite. The rice in a properly prepared risotto has been cooked to creaminess, with just enough bite in each kernel to provide resistance to the tooth. (That`s what ”al dente” means-to the tooth.) In turn, the kernels of corn are crispy; the seafood and mushrooms, tender.

A bit of fire seems in order here too, which explains the judicious sprinkling of red pepper flakes. (Go lightly: Too much pepper will overshadow the seafood.) Threads of saffron not only tint the rice, but heighten the flavor of the seafood. You can substitute turmeric for coloring if you want to save on the cost of this dish. A small quantity of white wine combines with chicken broth to provide simple depth of flavor.

As for the flavor-well, you be the judge.

For heaven`s sake, don`t feel stuck using this recipe verbatim. One of the beauties of risotto is its flexibility. By using vegetables, legumes and grains alone, you have the makings of a perfect side dish or meatless entree. If you like, follow my basic approach but use shrimp or oysters instead of the scallops. Or try fish. You could create a version using some red meat or sausage.

OCEAN-GARDEN RISOTTO

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 40 minutes

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Do not use instant or converted rice for this recipe. If you want to substitute the more expensive arborio or paella rice, you may.

1 pound bay scallops

2 cans (14 1/2 ounces each) chicken broth

Additional hot water, broth or vegetable stock (see note)

3 tablespoons butter

1 cup diced carrots

1/2 cup finely chopped onion or leeks

1 cup uncooked long-grain white rice (see note)

1/2 teaspoon loosely packed whole saffron threads, optional or 1/8 teaspoon turmeric

1/8- 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/2 cup dry white wine or dry Marsala

4 ounces fresh mushrooms, sliced thin

Corn kernels scraped from 2 ears of cooked corn

3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley (or to taste)

Parsley sprigs, wedges of lemon

1. Rinse scallops briefly under cold running water. Set aside to drain. Put 2 cans of the broth in a saucepan; heat broth to a boil. Have some water simmering in case it is needed. Keep the broth and the water covered between uses to minimize evaporation.

2. Set a large (12-inch or so) high-sided skillet, or a Dutch oven, over medium-high heat. Immediately add butter. When melted, stir in carrots and onions; cook, stirring occasionally, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in rice; reduce heat to medium; cook and stir until rice becomes pale golden brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Stir in the saffron and the red pepper flakes.

3. Stir a ladleful of boiling broth into the rice mixture (it may bubble up a bit). Stirring frequently, let the mixture simmer while it absorbs the liquid. When the broth is almost completely absorbed (the mixture will appear nearly dry), stir in another ladleful of the boiling broth. Again, stirring, allow the rice to absorb the liquid. At this stage, you might want to add a little of the salt and black pepper so they will permeate the grain.

4. Frequently stir the mixture as you continue to add small amounts of the boiling broth. Allow each portion of liquid to be absorbed before adding the next. By the time all of the stock is added, the rice should be growing more tender.

5. When the last of the broth is absorbed and rice is nearly dry, stir in the wine and the mushrooms. Stir thoroughly and cover the pan. Allow the rice to absorb the liquid; after 2 to 3 minutes, stir and check for tenderness. At this point, you might need to add additional hot water or broth; also, correct the seasonings.

6. When rice is almost al dente (nearly tender but still firm), stir in the scallops and the corn. Increase heat to medium-high and let any accumulated liquid evaporate. Cook just until scallops are cooked through.

7. Stir in the chopped parsley. Serve in soup plates or on dinner plates. Garnish with wedges of fresh lemon, and sprigs of whole parsley if desired. If you like, accompany with a steamed vegetable such as snow peas.

Note: It`s difficult to say precisely how much liquid your version will require. Some will be lost to evaporation during the early stages of cooking. Some rice absorbs more liquid than others. The scallops will give off varying amounts of liquid. Your best bet is to have extra broth or water ready, in case you need more.