Q-My old bathtub has a lever on the overflow plate at the top to open and close the drain. I flip up the lever when I want to close the drain and push it down when I want to drain the tub. There is no pop-up stopper visible-just a strainer over the drain.
I assume there must be some kind of internal stopper or valve that closes the drain. Anyway, this drain has leaked for some time, so that water runs out even when I pull the lever all the way up. Is there any way I can fix this myself?
A-You apparently have an old-style drain stopper, with a brass plug on the inside that drops down onto a seat.
If this plug has built-up oxidation or soap residue on it, or if there is an accumulation of hair, lint or soap scum stuck to the plug or the linkage that connects it to the lever at the top, the stopper will not seat properly to close off the drain opening.
You probably need to clean the linkage and the brass plug or stopper at the bottom. To do this, first remove the two screws that hold the overflow plate and the lever in place at the top, then carefully pull out the entire linkage with the brass stopper attached. Some linkages have locknuts (to permit adjustment of the length to make the stopper seat more firmly), so see if these have loosened or need adjusting.
Clean all parts with fine steel wool and wipe on a light coat of waterproof grease, then reinstall them.
Creaking floors
Q-Three years ago, we bought a new house that was then about two years old. After living in this house about a year, we noticed that the floor in the bedroom had started to creak. Now, three years later, we have the same creaking problem with most of the floors, upstairs and downstairs. If we call in a carpenter, will he be able to fix this?
A-Any carpenter who has had experience with wood flooring should be able to take care of your problem. Usually squeaking is caused by loose boards that have to be nailed or screwed down, but in some cases there may be other problems, such as floor boards that have swelled or buckled, or flooring that was not properly installed in the first place.
Installing a ceiling fan
Q-We have a square ceiling lighting fixture in one room that we would like to replace with a combination ceiling fan/light fixture. Can you tell us how to do this?
A-You will probably need to call in an electrician to completely remove the square lighting fixture, then rewire and install a metal ceiling outlet box (the kind used to hang chandeliers) in the same place.
If the electrician knows you intend to hang a ceiling fan (or if he will hang it for you), he will mount and brace this box so it will support the weight of the ceiling fan. The original wires from the old light will come into this box and be connected to the ceiling fan (instructions are packed with all ceiling fans).
Canvas wall covering
Q-I recently bought an apartment in a building that dates from the 1920s. The walls are plaster and covered with canvas. Most of the canvas is in excellent shape, but in several places where I used masking tape around windows and doors the canvas started to pull away from the wall when I peeled the tape away. Can you tell me why the canvas was applied and whether or not I should peel the loose areas away and apply new canvas on these places?
A-Years ago, walls often were lined with canvas to cover up plaster walls and ceilings that had many cracks and rough spots. The canvas also reinforced the plaster and provided a smooth surface that could be painted or papered.
I do not advise peeling off any of this canvas unless it is coming loose. Try pasting the loosened areas back with a vinyl adhesive. If this doesn`t hold, cut away the loose material and hang new lining canvas over the exposed plaster in order to insure a uniform surface.
