You`ve been on the island for a few days, and you`ve enjoyed yourself on Duval Street with its shops and restaurants and bars and art galleries. But you have that feeling . . . there must be more.
There is.
Some of the greatest treasures of Key West are blocks or miles from the main drag. Some visitors completely miss them. Here is a guide to 10 of them.
Except for East Martello and Little Hamaca Park, all these spots are easily accessible by bicycle or even on foot (although Ft. Taylor is a bit of a hike). Cycling is the best way to get around Old Town, and there are plenty of rental outfits to provide you with a one-speed with coaster brakes for about $4 a day. You can also rent mopeds, but they are more expensive (about $25-$30), noisier and much more dangerous when you`ve had a few beers.
– East Martello Museum, 3501 S. Roosevelt Blvd.
The museum at an old fort battery is run by the Key West Art & Historical Society. Key West is laden with museums, but this one`s the best museum for getting an overview of Key West`s colorful and varied history. Exhibits include gravestones of Civil War heroines, cannons, rafts from Cuban refugees and turtle shells from the days when hunting the reptiles was big business.
Hours: The museum is open 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m., seven days a week. Admission: $3 for adults, $1 for children under 12, free for children under 6;
305-296-3913.
– Little Hamaca City Park, just off Linda Avenue.
This little park can be difficult to find, even for locals. But it`s worth the journey if you`re interested in the natural Key West, which has been nearly obscured with pavement throughout the island. On the site of the former Navy missile base (put on ready status during the Cuban missile crisis), the city has constructed a park with picnic tables and a wonderful little boardwalk through the salt ponds and mangroves that lead to the city`s major canal.
To get there, take Flagler Avenue, one of the main arteries across the island. If you`re heading northeast, away from the Casa Marina, look for the Key West High School with the giant conch shell out front on your right. Then keep a sharp eye out for Linda Avenue. Turn right on Linda, then right again and keep following the road and the signs to the park.
Open during daylight, seven days a week.
– Key West City Cemetery, entrance at the corner of Angela and Margaret Streets.
It may sound a little bizarre as a destination, but the cemetery is a wonderful repository of Key West history, characters and lore. The city`s first cemetery was moved here in 1847 after a hurricane disinterred some of the recently deceased from shallower ground. For a century and a half, this has served as final resting place for prominent civic leaders and notorious scalawags-sometimes, one and the same.
The most famous inscription is B.P. Roberts` ”I Told You I Was Sick.”
Others include ”Devoted Fan of Singer Julio Iglesias” and the Otto family`s dedication to their crabby little terrier in the family plot: ”His Beautiful Little Spirit Was A Challenge to Love.” More global historic significance lies in the memorials to the U.S.S. Maine, the ship that blew up in Havana Harbor and led the U.S. into its first international conflict, and the Cuban martyrs of the Ten Years War, who were killed trying to win liberty for their island against the cruel rule of the dying Spanish colonial empire.
Open sunrise to 6 p.m., seven days; tours most weekends at 10 a.m. or by appointment. Admission free; tours, $5, which goes for cemetery restoration;
305-292-8177.
– Ft. Zachary Taylor, entrance at the western end of Southard Street.
Originally built to defend the country`s southern coast, this fort never fired a shot in battle and was never fired upon. It did serve a vital role in keeping Key West loyal to the Union during the Civil War. Now it`s a state park with a beach and barbecue area and daily tours of the fort.
Unfortunately, most of the fort structure is now restricted from public access, but you can still tour the parade grounds and peer inside the casements.
Open 8 a.m. until sunset, seven days. Fort tours, 2 p.m. Admission is $3.25 per car plus 50 cents per person; $1.50 per person if you`re on a bicycle, moped or on foot; 305-292-6713.
– Perkins and Sons Marine Chandlery, 901 Fleming St.
This store is marine supplier, museum, art gallery and antique store. It`s like the wonderful attic of a sea captain, filled with prints and ship`s models and some of the greatest T-shirts in town (”The Floggings Will Continue Until Morale Improves”).
Open 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m. weekdays; 305-294-7635.
– The Haitian Art Co., 600 Frances St.
Key West has plenty of good art galleries on Duval, but don`t miss this one just because it`s a few blocks away. This wonderful gallery is crammed with paintings, sculptures and other artworks by Haitian artists.
Open 10 a.m.-6 p.m. seven days; 305-296-8932.
– Key West Community Pool, corner of Catherine and Thomas Streets.
It`s too hot to deal with life anymore. The pool at the motel is too crowded. The tiny guest house is charming but doesn`t have a pool. Whatever the reason, a secret asset of the city of Key West is its public pool, at the Martin Luther King Jr. Community Center.
Open for lap swimming 8-10 a.m. and noon-1 p.m. weekdays. Free swim is 1-5:45 p.m. weekdays and 10 a.m.-5:45 p.m. weekends; 305-292-8248.
Hungry yet?
OK, you`ve walked, biked, driven and tramped all over the island. And you`re hungry. You should be. Here are a few places to get reasonably priced refreshments.
– PEPE`S, 806 Caroline St., for breakfast.
This cafe bills itself as the oldest on the island. Who knows? However, it is one of the best for breakfast, beloved by locals and the sailing crowd that comes through the nearby marinas. The service is prompt and courteous, and the food is delicious, especially the different kinds of breads and the French toast specials made with fruit. One warning: This place is popular, so expect a wait on weekends, especially during the season.
Breakfast is served 6:30 a.m.-noon, seven days. The restaurant is also open for lunch and dinner; 305-294-7192.
– Waterfront Market, 201 William St., for lunch.
When you`ve had it with the overpriced lunch and lousy service at many typical tourist spots, but you want a little more than fast food, head for the Waterfront Market. The deli counter at this health-food store and restaurant supplier is actually organized to make sense. Customers fill out a card saying exactly what they want on the sandwich, from the type of bread to the type of cheese. You write your name on the card, drop it on a tray and wait until it`s ready. The sandwiches are huge and tasty. And they`re about $5.
Open 8 a.m.-6 p.m. seven days; 305-296-0778.
– Eden House, 1015 Fleming St., for drinks.
If you`re one of the 12 people who saw the movie ”CrissCross,” you may recognize this guest house. Or you might not: It`s undergone a complete face lift since the movie folks came in and made it look like a rundown flophouse circa 1969. Now it`s a tropical escape, the perfect place to flee the sunset crowds and enjoy a cool glass of wine or beer before dinner. Or after.
Open 6-9 p.m. seven days; 305-296-6868.
