As the Christmas countdown edges into single digits, the time is hard upon us to turn some liquid assets into liquid gifts.
Since, during much of the past year, I`ve been writing about seeking out wines that are compatible with food, I`m focusing my dry-wine recommendations on two grapes, pinot noir and gewurztraminer. They are among the most versatile of food companions, matching particularly well with spicy foods, poultry and vegetable creations.
When it`s in form, pinot noir is a wine of unparalleled charm and beauty. The finest expressions of this grape`s personality are found in Burgundy, but even there, the delicate and moody pinot can be disappointing. There are several very good vintages of red Burgundy currently on the market (1988, `89 and `90). Famous names from the famous appellations are prohibitively expensive (for me, at least), but communes around the fringes of the Cote d`Or-Fixen, Savigny-les-Beaune, Santenay, Mercury, for example-have produced some good value-for-money wines. Seek out a merchant who has actually tasted them.
Meanwhile, at a recent tasting here sponsored by the group Pinot Noir America, the progress of this country`s producers was evident. At a similar tasting two years ago, there were a number of disappointments. This time the quality ranged from good to memorable. Look to California and Oregon for the best selection. In California, the Carneros region of Napa, Sonoma`s Russian River appellation and Santa Barbara County on the Central Coast are making great strides toward producing silky, smooth pinot of considerable depth and character. In Oregon, the unpredictable weather causes more ups and downs from vintage to vintage, but the climate and soil also make it possible to produce very subtle and sophisticated wines.
The following are wineries that stood out at the Pinot Noir America tasting, plus several others of merit:
From Oregon: Adelsheim, Amity, Bethel Heights and Rex Hill. From Carneros: Bouchain, Carneros Creek, Robert Sinskey, Saintsbury, Etude, Sterling Winery Lake, Roche, Acacia, Robert Mondavi. From Sonoma: Davis Bynum, Rochioli, Dehlinger, Iron Horse. From Central Coast: Morgan (Monterey), Sanford, Au Bon Climate, Meridian, Fiddlehead, Talley, Mirassou.
As for gewurztraminer, the assertive perfumed quality and relatively high alcohol content that make it distinctive (too distinctive for some), allow wines made from this grape to stand up to Oriental spices, smoked flavors and fruit. As with pinot noir, the best gewurztraminer is made in France. Alsace is the place, and the vintages to consider are 1989 and `90 and noteworthy producers include Leon Bayer, Hugel, Gustave Lorentz, Ostertag and Trimbach. Wines should be in the $12-to-$18 category. (Late-harvest gewurztraminer, rich and sweet in varying degrees, will cost considerably more.)
Gewurztraminer from U.S. producers tends to be tamer than its Alsatian cousins. The vintage to look for is 1991. Good producers include: Amity in Oregon, Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington and, from California, Adler-Fels, Parducci, Charles Krug, Claiborne & Churchill, Firestone, DeLoach, Bargetto, Husch, Navarro, Handley. All should be under $10.
That takes care of the middle of the meal. For the start, champagne or sparkling wine is a sure bet and a much appreciated gift. For something different, seek out the excellent Spanish sparkler Juve y Camps, the handsome new bottle shape of Veuve Clicquot 1985 La Grande Dame or Schramsberg`s new top-of-the line product, J. Schram.
To end a meal with Cognac is an equally strong tradition. A welcome addition to the well-known brands are the subtle, splendid products of A.E. Dor. An increasingly popular alternative to Cognac is aged single-malt whiskey from Scotland. The 12- or 18-year-old Dalmore and Macallan are personal favorites.
Here are some other gift ideas to give yourself or others:
Lynfred, the excellent Roselle winery in our own state, has a New Release Club, which offers members a new wine and a newsletter each month. Call 708-529-9463 for details.
To become better acquainted with the wines of Italy: Try three-bottle regional wine gift sets at Convito Italiano: Campania ($47), Tuscany ($33), Friuli ($40), Veneto ($31.50), Piedmont ($52).
For new dimensions in beer: Jenlain and Castelain, French bieres de gardes, hybrids between ale and lager that still are full-flavored when chilled. Jenlain produces a special Christmas Beer. From California comes non- alcoholic Fruit Beer, with a base of black mission figs plus white grape juice and herbs.
For wine-lovers who are opening more than one bottle, Screwpull has developed a very efficient level-pull wine opener. Packed with a capsule cutter, it retails for about $100.
Wine-education possibilities include ”Making Sense of California Wine”
(Morrow, $20), by Matt Kramer; ”The Vintner`s Art” (Simon & Schuster, $40), by Hugh Johnson and James Halliday; and a remarkable boxed audio set of five cassettes by Edmund Osterland called ”Discovering the Pleasures of Wine” ($69, telephone orders through 1-800-846-6433).
For wine travel, consider joining one of four 1993 Air France small group tours called ”France in Your Glass.” Destintions are: Bordeaux for eight nights beginning Feb. 20 and beginning April 17 ($2,666 each), or Burgundy for eight nights beginning Feb. 6 ($2,444) and seven nights beginning April 3
($2,555). Call 1-800-578-0903 for detailed itineraries and Chicago departures.
Last but not least, the following recipe is a properly rich and rewarding holiday treat. It was conceived by George Morrone, chef-owner of the popular San Francisco seafood restaurant Aqua, on commission from Piper Sonoma. The California sparkling wine house suggests serving the crabcakes with its 1988 blanc de noirs. Consider the garnishes optional, but do make an effort to obtain the panko (Japanese breadcrumbs). They make the crabcakes notably light and crisp.
AQUA CRABCAKES
Four to eight servings
1 pound lumb crabmeat
1 inside rib celery, cut in a fine dice
1/2 medium yellow onion, cut in a fine dice
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus 1/2 cup (optional)
1 cup mayonnaise, homemade preferred, plus 1 cup (optional)
1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 package (7 ounces) panko (Japanese bread crumbs)+
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1/2 cup instant flour such as Wondra
4 eggs, at room temperature
2 bunches fresh basil, stems removed (optional)
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
+ Available in Oriental markets
1. In a frying pan, cook celery and onion in 2 tablespoons oil over low heat until soft, 3 to 5 minutes.
2. Scrape vegetables into a mixing bowl. Add 1 cup mayonnaise, mustard, lemon juice, cayenne, salt and black pepper to taste, 3/4 of the panko and parsley. Mix well, then fold in crabmeat. Form into 8 cakes. (Recipe may be made ahead to this point. Cover and refrigerate mixture until needed.)
3. In a soup plate or shallow dish, combine remaining 1/4 package panko and instant flour. In a second soup plate, beat eggs. Coat crabcake in the panko mixture, shake off the excess, dip them in the egg mixture, then in the panko mixture again. Place on a baking sheet covered with waxed paper. Keep at room temperature or refrigerate until ready to cook.
4. Prepare the optional garnishes. Plunge both bunches of basil leaves into boiling water for 30 seconds. Drain and place half in a blender with the 1/2 cup olive oil. Process, let stand for 1/2 hour and strain through cheesecloth. Reserve 8 basil leaves, then chop the remainder and fold them into the remaining cup of mayonnaise. Set aside.
5. Just before cooking, place dots of basil mayonnaise around the inner rim of 4 or 8 plates. Sprinkle ground black pepper around the outer rim.
6. Heat vegetable oil in a frying pan large enough to hold the crabcakes in a single layer. Add cakes and cook until golden brown on the bottom. Turn and brown the second side.
7. Place 1 or 2 crabcakes on each plate. Drizzle basil oil over the plate, garnish each cake with a basil leaf and serve at once. (If desired, fry the basil leaves briefly in the oil.)
