New lighting fixtures brighten up rooms-even when they’re not turned on.
An opulent hanging lamp or a brilliant chandelier can be the showcase of a dining room, living room or even a kitchen. And the work it takes to add such a new fixture can be a fairly simple task for the average do-it-yourselfer.
“We’re seeing a lot of people replacing old and plain fixtures with more elaborate fixtures, such as chandeliers,” says Thomas Hoyne, a licensed Chicago electrician and a member of the Chicago branch of the National Association of the Remodeling Industry.
“People are realizing that an ornate light fixture is a fairly inexpensive way to add a lot drama to a room,” says Hoyne, owner of T.J. Electrical Contractor.
“People would be surprised at how much a new light fixture changes a room from a cosmetic sense,” says Phil Richards of the Fox Lighting Gallery on Chicago’s North Side.
With a bit of preparation and the right tools-pliers, screwdriver, wire strippers and a ladder-the installation of a new lighting fixture can be handled in an afternoon, Richards and Hoyne say.
All lighting fixtures are connected simply with two circuit wires. The hard part is the hardware used to mount the fixture to the ceiling. That can differ depending on the age of the home, the type of outlet box in the ceiling and the type of light.
“If you’re in a home that was built after 1970, replacing a light fixture is fairly simple in that you should have a full-size outlet box with lots of room for wiring connections,” says Hoyne.
“With older home installations, you can’t depend on the mounting hardware they provide with the fixtures,” says Richards. “You’ll probably need some sort of adapters or couplings to make it work. And every installation will be a little bit different.
“For example, in the classic Chicago two-flat that’s more than 60 years old, you can be almost certain that the outlet box is going to be a round ceiling pan that’s only a half-inch deep and it will be stuffed with wires with old insulation.”
What follows is a basic step-by-step primer to installing new elaborate lighting fixtures, plus a few tips from experts who deal with installation on a regular basis:
– Before purchasing a new light, Richards suggests, you should take apart the old fixture to see what type of ceiling outlet you have to work with.
As with any type of electrical work, disconnect the power source (at the circuit breaker or fuse box) to the existing light and test the light to make sure it’s not receiving power.
Then, remove the canopy or the fixture plate-usually a round plate that hugs the ceiling-and expose the connection of the light wires and the power source. A small capnut or locknut at the bottom center of the plate is what usually secures it.
“Note how deep the outlet box is and how many wires are jammed into it,” says Richards. “Also, grip the outlet box with a pair of pliers to determine how securely attached it is to the ceiling joist or a bracket.”
More importantly, note how the fixture is secured to the outlet box.
– The fixture may be attached to the box in a number of ways: A hickey may be screwed onto a stud-a pipe that protrudes from the center of the top of the outlet box. The bottom of the hickey is attached to the lighting fixture.
A mounting strap or bracket may also be connected to the stud. Screws from the fixture are then affixed to the mounting strap.
A mounting strap may also be connected via screws into the ears of the ceiling box, with fixture pipe then screwed up into the center of the mounting strap.
Finally, a nipple-a long, threaded piece of pipe-may be attached to the stud via a connection such as a reducing nut.
You may need to buy several sizes of adaptors and hickeys to see which one fits.
And you may even need to drill new holes into the outlet box to attach a mounting bracket with screws to securely attach a new fixture.
– Once you’ve determined how the current fixture is attached, you’ll find it easier to pick the correct additional hardware to attach the new light, says Richards.
And if the outlet box is crammed full of wiring and there is no additional space for new wires, then a fixture extension may be in order.
New adapters and hickeys may also require the additional space.
“The old light fixtures had deep canopies to bury wiring in,” says Richards. “The new ones don’t, and they also assume you’ve got a new outlet box that’s 2 1/2 inches deep. What you can do to squeak out new space is add a fixture extension, which fits between the canopy and the box and gives you an extra 1 1/4 inch in depth. Then you have some room to work.”
A ceiling medallion, a sort of upside-down decorative plate, can also be added between the canopy and the ceiling to cover any gaps, Richards says.
Ceiling medallions can also be used to cover any cracks around the outlet box opening.
– If the outlet box doesn’t seem secure enough to hold up the new fixture, there are a couple of ways of shoring it up.
One is to simply use additional screws to tighten it to a joist, if that’s where it’s located.
A more arduous job may be required if the box is not attached to a joist. Then, you’ll have to chip away the plaster surrounding the box, add a brace or wood blocks to shore it up, and then replaster the ceiling.
“In older homes, most of the outlet boxes, even though they’re just a half-inch deep, are anchored securely to the joists,” says Richards, “so they will easily support the weight of a heavy chandelier.”
– After determining the box is secure and buying the necessary adapters, carefully disconnect the fixture wiring (after turning off the power source) from the house wiring and loosen it from its mountings to remove the old fixture.
“Unless you’re planning to rewire the room, try to disturb as little of the wiring as possible,” says Richards.
– Assemble the new light fixture according to the owner’s manual, then mount it using the adapters where needed.
After mounting the fixture, connect the wiring. If the house wires are three or four wires twisted together, use extra large wire nuts to connect those to the fixture wires, says Richards. “Then wrap a bit of electrical tape over the wire nuts and on the wires to help hold it together and reinsulate the wires.”
Finally, bring up the canopy and tighten it in place with the locknut or capnut.
– If you decide to have a professional install the new light or a new outlet box, be prepared to spend up to several hundred dollars.
“Installing a lightweight fixture will probably take a professional about an hour and cost about $90,” says Hoyne. “Installing a heavier fixture, or installing a new outlet box for a new fixture, can take up to two or three hours and cost $200 to $250.”
Swagging
– If a light fixture isn’t directly centered over a dining room table or living room coffee table, one option is to dig out the existing outlet box and wiring and move them to a center spot in the ceiling.
A more inexpensive option is to simply swag the chain of a hanging fixture with a hook and maybe an extra foot of chain and wiring.
First, locate the spot on the ceiling that is the center spot you prefer. Using a piece of string, measure the space between center spot and the center of the light fixture canopy.
Then, you’ll need to buy additional chain that matches the chain on your chandelier or light fixture, as well as additional electrical wiring.
In the center spot, install a decorative swag hook that is available at home improvement stores for chandeliers as well as hanging plants. If possible, screw the hook into a joist behind the plaster or drywall.
Attach the additional chain and wiring to the fixture. Make sure the wiring is slightly longer than the chain, so you can run the wiring through the links.
