Take bare eyelids, line sparingly with a neutral color and frame with thin brows and curled lashes.
Add cheeks flushed with a natural-looking glow. Finish with lips as glossy and as translucent as gelatin. There you have the ’70s-inspired recipe for the basic face of spring.
Gone are the matte finishes, heavily outlined lids and full, opaque lips of the ’40s- and ’50s-influenced “done” face fashionable in recent years.
“The clothes are sheerer and lighter, so makeup has to be the same way,” said Jocelyn Zayco, senior makeup artist at Sebastian International, maker of beauty products in Woodland Hills, Calif. “Makeup for spring will be mostly neutral and transparent, showing off great skin.”
At the showing of the European collections for spring, makeup was at its cleanest at Jil Sander. Makeup artist Linda Cantello put highlights on the brow bone. Lips were natural with a hint of gloss.
Cheeks were pale for day and lightly dusted with color for night at Giorgio Armani, lips tinted with pink with brown undertones.
For evening, opalescence went across the brow bone; at Rifat Ozbek, it was gold; at Gianni Versace, it was an icy pastel.
With eyeliner only used sparingly, eyes can get more definition in two other ways, Zayco said: mascara or individual fake eyelashes. The lashes come in sets of three to five attached strands glued onto the roots of your own lashes.
As for those dark, ghoulish eyes and drenched lips at designer Anna Sui’s show in New York and at John Galliano’s show in Paris, you will see them in fashion magazines-but just for effect. On the streets, the look is clean and light.
