Marie Gray has built a $90 million-a-year fashion business by designing clothes that are more than appealing.
“My pet peeve is when I find something that looks good, but it’s not functional,” says Gray, vice chairman and head designer of St. John, the Irvine, Calif. company she founded in 1962 with her husband Bob, chairman and chief executive officer.
Specializing in classic but contemporary knitwear designs for day and evening, St. John targets working women who prize comfort as well as style. First Lady Hillary Rodham Clinton and broadcaster Diane Sawyer own St. John clothing.
The business began almost 31 years ago when Gray, then a model, spotted a knit dress she coveted but couldn’t afford.
Though she didn’t know how to sew or knit, she bought a pair of knitting needles, lots of yarn, an instruction book, and made herself a similar one.
Bob Gray, who at that time was her fiance and a fashion salesman, showed the dress to a buyer and the couple landed their first order.
Since then, the business has grown to include knit suits, separates and sportswear. Coordinating jewelry, shoes, scarves, handbags and hosiery are among the newest additions. (Prices range from $60 for a pair of earrings to $1,200 for an evening jacket.)
The expansion into accessories is the work of Kelly Gray, the couple’s daughter, who has been the collection’s signature model for 10 years and also has become the firm’s vice president and creative director. Kelly also has influenced the contemporary emphasis of the collection. For example, the St. John line includes white denim jeans and jackets.
St. John-it’s Marie’s maiden name-hasn’t strayed from its intent: offering stylish and practical designs that last. In fact, the company still relies on “real” women, rather than models with perfect curves, to test designs. St. John employees spanning sizes 2 to 12 try on designs before the items are approved for production.
“I want to see them on real people,” says Marie Gray.
Flattering strategies
“You don’t have to have the perfect body type (to wear knits),” says Gina Tovar, fashion director for Nordstrom in Oak Brook.
The key? Choose styles that aren’t too tight for your shape.
Some other tips for wearing knits this season:
-Look for knit skirts and dresses with spandex, which helps keep them from sagging.
-Wear control undergarments and body-toning hosiery with built-in panties for a smooth silhouette under skirts and pants.
-Don’t be limited to an all-knit outfit. Mix knit garments with pieces in other fabrics such as twill, linen, gabardine and silk.
Where to buy
Two-piece suit with black skirt and coordinating jacket available in pink, white, yellow, green; $680. Three-piece suit in green, white and pink; $880. Black/white dress; $850. Available at Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue stores or call 212-755-5252 for a St. John boutique location.
