A column published in this space last summer about aperitifs brought forth several queries about vermouth. One of the most prominent question was, “Does it spoil?”
The answer is yes. Over a period of time, especially if stored in a warm place, vermouth will oxidize and begin to taste musty and unpleasant. Pale-colored dry vermouth will give a visual warning by turning a somewhat amber and becoming cloudy, though many persons seem not to notice.
This may seem of small import to those who use no more than a drop or two of vermouth in their martinis or simply wave the bottle over the cocktail shaker. But it will be noticeable if the martini is made with vermouth in a rational proportion with gin or vodka (say, 1 to 4 or even 1 to 8) or if the vermouth is used in any of the numerous aperitifs in which it is a significant element.
Incidently, while sweet, dark-amber-colored vermouth has long been classified as “Italian” and the dry, light-colored vermouth as “French,” both types are made in both countries (and in the United States as well). French culinary authority Madeleine Kamman points out a clear distinction, however, in her book “Savoie.”
The most delicate and dry versions of the beverage are made in the French town of Chambery, in the Savoie region, where they are called vermout and are granted an official appellation of origin. According to Kamman, the locals drink their vermout “with a trace of strawberry syrup.” Unfortunately, that’s hard to do in Chicago because, I am told, no wholesaler here is importing it.
But I digress.
I do have two suggestions to help prevent the spoilage of vermouth. (There could be three if I encouraged vermouth owners to drink more martinis, but that would be bad form.) First, buy the smaller-size bottle, .375 liter, and store it in the refrigerator. Second, use vermouth in cooking.
Impregnated with herbs, spices and flavorings such as orange-peel, vermouth-even a tablespoon or two of it-will give a lift to almost any recipe calling for dry white or sweet red wine, sparing you the need of opening a bottle of wine for such a scant amount or allowing you to save the wine you do open for drinking. A cup or so, mixed with an equal quantity of water, is an ideal vehicle for poaching fish, chicken breast or passive vegetables such as zucchini. Sprinkle a touch of vermouth into a salad dressing or use it as the base for a sabayon sauce.
Or try the following recipes. The first two were created by chef Jean-Louis Palladin of Jean Louis at the Watergate in Washington, D.C., for the Noilly Prat Co.
MICROWAVE STRIPED BASS WITH HERBS AND VERMOUTH
Four servings
4 fillets (about 5 ounces each) striped bass with skin on
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh tarragon
1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro (fresh coriander)
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill
3 tablespoons olive oil, extra virgin preferred
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup dry vermouth
1. Combine the tarragon, cilantro, basil and dill in a small bowl, then stir in 1 tablespoon olive oil. Set aside.
2. Salt and pepper the fish fillets generously and place, skin side down, in an 8-by-8-by-2-inch pan suitable for use in a microwave oven. Pour the vermouth over the fillets, drizzle on the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and spread the herb mixture over the surface of each fillet.
3. Cook, uncovered, for 3 to 4 minutes at full power. Transfer fillets to 4 warm plates and spoon the pan juices over them. Serve at once. To make a main course, serve with rice and a green vegetable such as broccoli.
PEACH-AND-APRICOT SOUP WITH SWEET VERMOUTH
Four servings
4 ripe but still firm peaches
8 ripe but still firm apricots
2 cups sweet vermouth
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint and 4 sprigs mint for garnish
1 pint peach or apricot sorbet or ice cream
1. Peel the peaches, then halve and pit them. Halve the apricots, leaving the skin on, and remove the pits. In a large bowl, combine the vermouth, sugar, chopped mint and 1/2 cup cold water.
2. Place the fruit in the bowl and allow to macerate for 1 hour. (If not serving immediately, remove the fruit from the liquid and store separately.) Place 4 large soup bowls in the refrigerator to chill.
3. Arrange 2 peach halves and 4 apricot halves around the edges of each bowl. Add 1/2 cup of the fruit liquid to each bowl, place a scoop of sorbet in the center of each plate and top with a sprig of mint. Serve at once.
CHICKEN-LIVER-AND-PORCINI RISOTTO WITH VERMOUTH
Four servings
1 package (about 1/3-ounce) dried porcini mushrooms
4 cups chicken broth
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/3 cup finely minced onion
1 1/2 cups rice, imported Arborio preferred
1/3 cup grated parmesan cheese
1/2 cup dry vermouth
4 ounces chicken livers, cut into small pieces
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Place porcini in a bowl and cover with 1 cup boiling water. Strain liquid through cheesecloth and reserve. Coarsely chop the porcini and reserve.
2. In a saucepan, combine 1 cup porcini liquid with the broth and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons butter and the oil in a heavy-bottomed casserole over moderate heat. Add the onion and saute until soft, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the rice and stir until all the grains are coated.
3. Add the vermouth and stir until it is completely absorbed. Add the chicken livers and porcini, then begin to add the broth, 1/2 cup at a time, stirring frequently. Wait until each addition is almost absorbed before adding the next.
4. When the rice is tender but still firm, or after about 18 minutes, remove from the heat and stir in the remaining butter, parmesan and parsley. Taste and add salt and pepper as desired. Serve at once.
-Adapted from “Risotto” by Judith Barrett and Norma Wasserman.
CAPILOTADE (DRIED COD STEWED IN A SWEET VERMOUTH AND TOMATO SAUCE)
Six servings
2 pounds best-quality dried codfish
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
3 tomatoes, imported Italian preferred, chopped
1/2 cup sweet red vermouth
1/2 cup chopped cornichons (small French pickles) or 1/4 cup capers
Salt (optional) and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley
1. Soak the cod in a large bowl of water for several hours or, if very hard, overnight. Change the water 2 or 3 times. Before continuing with the recipe, taste a piece to be sure it is not too salty. If it is, continue soaking.
2. Drain the cod and chop it into large pieces. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan. Fry the pieces of cod for 3 minutes on each side. Remove with tongs or a slotted spoon and set aside.
3. Add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and cook the onions over low heat until soft. Add the garlic and tomatoes to the onions. Stir in the vermouth and cornichons or capers and simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Return cod pieces to the pan and cook until heated through. Taste sauce and add optional salt and pepper. Portion into bowls and garnish with chopped parsley.
-Adapted from “The Cuisine of the Sun,” by Mireille Johnston.
