Springtime in Kentucky is party time, especially during the week-long buildup to the first Saturday in May when a horse race called the Kentucky Derby is run at Churchill Downs in Louisville.
The mint julep is the drink of the day, of the week for that matter, but despite the remarkable volume of bourbon that goes into making them, there is enough left (or perhaps hidden away) to be used in cooking.
Bourbon’s corn-derived sweetness makes it a natural partner (in a sauce or marinade) for such Kentucky delicacies as country ham and roast pork as well as bread or biscuit pudding and fruit desserts. Before the meal, in a cocktail, it is equally at home with appetizers that feature salty cheese, pork sausage or the locally famous spread called Benedictine (which contains cream cheese, cucumber and dill).
But sooner or later, conversations involving bourbon at this time of year focus on the julep. There’s little question that bourbon producers play up the ritual preparation of this historic drink for all it’s worth and compete far more furiously during Derby Week to push their product in the spotlight than their amiable conversation and boundless courtesy would lead you to believe.
Should you ask, they will tell you that the julep was mentioned as early as 1787, and-as William Grimes notes in “Straight Up or On the Rocks, a Cultural History of American Drink” (Simon & Schuster)-the “lavish use of ice” at that time suggests it was a drink of the aristocracy. Mint was a standard ingredient by the 1830s, but only in the aftermath of the Civil War did bourbon emerge as the only liquor one could use to make a proper mint julep.
Other points of contention remain, however. Among them: the type of ice used, whether sugar and mint must be muddled together just prior to serving, the best brand of bourbon to use and the propriety of serving the julep in a glass instead of a silver cup.
After sampling what struck me as a flawless julep in the corporate dining room of the Brown-Forman Co. (producer of Old Forester, Early Times and Jack Daniels as well as a major player in the wine industry), I sought the advice of Maurice Williams, the man who made it.
He told me he prepares a simple syrup (using sugar and bottled water) and infuses it with mint “from the garden.” The syrup must be allowed to “set” for at least one hour. A quantity of syrup he measures by eye then goes into a silver cup. The cup is then “packed” with freshly chopped crushed ice. Two ounces of bourbon (to no one’s surprise, 86 proof Old Forester is his choice) are poured over the ice, and a sprig or two of mint are added. Some folks sprinkle powdered sugar on the mint garnish, but Williams is not one of them.
What everyone does agree on, however, is that a julep should be drunk slowly, even cautiously, especially outdoors on a sunny, warm day in May.
Here’s a mint julep recipe that incorporates Maurice William’s advice, plus two other beverages and a bourbon recipe for each course of a meal:
THE EARLY TIMES MINT JULEP
One drink
1 cup granulated sugar
1 bunch fresh mint sprigs
Crushed ice
2 ounces ( 1/4 cup) Kentucky whiskey, such as Early Times
1. The day before or morning of serving, make a simple syrup. Combine the sugar and 1 cup of water in a saucepan, bring to a boil and simmer 5 minutes without stirring. Cool, then pour over a handful of mint in a bowl and gently crush the mint with a spoon. Refrigerate syrup and mint overnight in a covered jar. (Those planning to serve juleps on more than one day should then remove and discard the mint. The syrup will keep for several weeks.)
2. For each julep, crush a few mint leaves in the bottom of an 8-ounce glass or silver cup. Fill glass with a generous amount of crushed ice, then add 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons syrup and 1 tablespoon water. Pour whiskey over the ice and stir gently until glass is frosted. Garnish with a sprig of mint and a straw and serve.
Note: The straw will come in handy as a miniature ice-chopper. Sometimes the mint garnish is dipped in powdered sugar; do not do this if guests are wearing dark suits or dresses.
FRONT-PORCH LEMONADE
Six to eight servings
1 1/4 cups granulated sugar, superfine preferred
1/2 cup boiling water
1 1/2 cups fresh lemon juice
4 1/2 cups cold water
Ice cubes
6 to 8 lemon slices
1. In a heat-resistant pitcher, combine sugar and boiling water and stir until sugar dissolves. Stir in lemon juice, cover pitcher and place in the refrigerator until serving time.
2. Add cold water and stir. Pour over ice cubes in tall glasses and garnish each glass with a lemon slice.
BACK-PORCH WHISKEY SOUR
Two drinks
3/4 cup front-porch lemonade base (recipe above)
3 ounces (2 jiggers) bourbon
Ice cubes
In a shaker, combine lemonade base, bourbon and ice cubes. Shake until cold, then portion into 2 rocks glasses. Add water or club soda to taste. Optional garnish: lemon slices.
SWEET POTATO-AND-BOURBON SOUP
Four to six servings
3 tablespoons butter
4 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced roughly
6 cups chicken stock or broth
1/3 cup bourbon
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Chopped parsley for garnish
1. Heat the butter in a large flameproof casserole or enamel pan. Add a layer of potatoes and brown on both sides. Remove and repeat until all are browned.
2. Add 5 cups of the chicken stock. Cook, covered, until the potatoes are tender enough for a fork to pierce them easily.
3. When they are tender, remove 1 cup of the potatoes and puree in a food processor fitted with the grating blade. Return to the soup and, with a spoon, break up the rest of the potatoes into large chunks. Taste. Stir in as much of the remaining cup of chicken stock as is necessary for a medium-thick soup. (Recipe may be done ahead to this point.)
4. Add bourbon to the soup and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes, season with salt and pepper and portion into bowls or cups. Garnish with parsley and serve. -From “New Southern Cooking” by Nathalie Dupree.
BRUCE AIDELLS’ BOURBON-MUSTARD GLAZE
About one cup
Use this glaze to marinate pork or beef ribs before grilling or broiling; paint on lamb or pork chops, duck breast or ham before baking. Baste with the mixture several times during cooking.
1/4 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons low-sulfur molasses
1/4 cup bourbon
1/4 cup imported soy sauce
2 teaspoons Worcestershire Sauce
1/4 cup mustard, Creole or Dijon preferred
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground preferred
1. In a small bowl, combine sugar, molasses, bourbon, soy and Worcestershire. With a whisk, mix the ingredients until sugar has dissolved.
2. Add mustard and pepper and whisk until smooth.
BOURBON SAUCE FOR DESSERTS
About three cups
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, at room temperature
1 cup sugar
4 egg yolks, beaten
Pinch of salt
1 cup cream, heated
1/2 cup bourbon
1. In a small bowl, with a hand mixer or whisk, cream butter and sugar.
2. Transfer to the top of a double boiler and place over, but not touching, simmering water. Beat in egg yolks and salt, slowly add hot cream and stir until thickened. Add bourbon and stir until an even consistency is obtained. Keep warm.
3. Serve over any dessert pudding, ice cream or poundcake.
-Adapted from “Bluegrass Winners,” by the Garden Club of Lexington, Ky.
