For corn lovers, few seasonal pleasures rival the thrill of munching an ear of corn until rivulets of butter roll down the chin and kernels stud the teeth.
But corn can be consumed in so many pleasurable ways, including some that may be unusual or new, even to corn aficionados.
Chicago-area chefs are among the forefront of creative cooks who have worked up some original things to do with corn. After all, Chicago is in the heart of the Midwest, which produces more than 40 percent (about 250 million tons annually) of the world’s corn crop.
Illinois and Iowa are the largest producers in the world of the two major varieties: dent corn and sweet corn. Dent is converted to grain for tortillas, grits and corn meal, or extruded for processing chips and breakfast cereals. Sweet corn, eaten as a vegetable, is the result of a mutation that inhibits the development of starch in the kernel.
What to do with all of that Midwest corn? Consider the following:
– Chef Jeff Kerr of Gypsy, a Chicago restaurant named for its peripatetic kitchen staff and its eclectic, Mediterranean-inspired cuisine, prepares corn dishes with a minimum of oil or flour.
“Clean food doesn’t have to be boring,” Kerr says, describing his grilled corn and mango salad, a medley with fresh chilies, fruit and herbs that lends a fiery crunch to grilled fish or chicken. Sweet corn’s mild taste and robust texture make it a perfect foil for stronger flavors, especially those hot chili peppers, says Kerr.
– Gail Forsberg, owner of the Pretty Good Cafe in Winnetka, says her savory tamale corncakes are one of the cafe’s most popular breakfast or lunch items, adding that leftover corn on the cob from the grill, used instead of frozen corn, will give the cakes a smoky flavor.
– “Corn is a popular staple for desserts in Southeast Asia,” says Andrew Marc Rothschild, chef-owner of The Marc, a new restaurant in Chicago’s River North area. “In the Philippines people eat a lot of corn for breakfast-that’s where I got the idea for corn waffles.”
Drizzled with thyme-infused syrup and paired with strawberries or raspberries, his corn waffles make an elegant, filling brunch item.
– Most of the recipes that chef Sergio Sanchez prepares at the Twisted Lizard (formerly the Cactus Club) in Chicago were taught to him by his mother, Eva Alvarez Sanchez.
A native of Mexico City, Sergio Sanchez makes a Mexican-style soup called “Dog Soup” (named for the bones in the broth). It is peasant food: inexpensive, easy to prepare and highly nutritious. True to the original recipe, he adds the vegetables without sauteing them first, thus eliminating excess fat.
– Like the chefs at Gypsy, Patrick Concannon says he draws from all over the world for his cooking, often creating dishes that fuse European, Southwestern and Mexican traditions. The owner-chef of Don Juan’s, a Chicago restaurant, adapts a traditional Italian method for preparing rice.
SWEET CORN RISOTTO WITH CRISPY POTATOES
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 25 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
From Patrick Concannon of Don Juan restaurant.
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup arborio rice
1 medium shallot, minced
1/2 clove garlic, minced
1 cup sweet corn kernels
4 cups chicken stock or broth, boiling hot
2 medium Idaho potatoes, diced
Salt, white pepper to taste
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in 3-quart saucepan. Add rice, shallot and garlic; stir so rice is coated with oil. Cook and stir over high heat for 1 minute. Add the corn; cook and stir 1 minute longer.
2. Stir in 3/4 cup of the chicken stock. Cook at a gentle simmer, stirring frequently, until the liquid is absorbed. Continue to add stock in this manner until rice is creamy and tender yet still slightly firm. This process takes about 20 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil in a heavy skillet over high heat. Add potatoes, salt and pepper. Fry potatoes, stirring often, until crisp and golden, 10 to 12 minutes.
4. Stir cheese, salt and pepper into the rice. Just before serving, fold in the crispy potatoes.
Note: Arborio rice is available at Italian markets and some supermarkets.
CORN WAFFLES WITH BERRIES AND THYME SYRUP
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Steeping time: Overnight
Cooking time: 10 minutes per batch
Yield: 4 servings
Pure maple syrup also tastes good with these hearty waffles from chef Andrew Marc Rothschild.
Thyme syrup:
1/2 cup each: sugar, water
8 small sprigs fresh thyme
Waffles:
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon each: baking soda, ground ginger, cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
2 large eggs
6 tablespoons melted butter or vegetable oil
2 cups buttermilk
1/4 cup blanched fresh corn kernels
For serving:
2 cups assorted fresh berries, such as sliced strawberries, black and red raspberries, blackberries, blueberries
1/4 cup blanched fresh corn kernels
Fresh thyme sprigs for garnish
1. For thyme syrup, mix water and sugar in small non-aluminum saucepan. Heat to boil, stirring until sugar dissolves. Cover and simmer 2 minutes. Uncover and boil just to thicken slightly, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat; add thyme sprigs. Let seep overnight, then strain.
2. For waffles, sift together flour, brown sugar, baking powder, baking soda, ginger, cinnamon and salt into a large bowl. Stir in thyme. Mix buttermilk, butter and eggs in small bowl. Stir into flour mixture; whisk just to remove lumps. Do not overmix. Let batter stand for 30 minutes.
3. Heat a waffle iron according to manufacturer’s directions. Fold corn into batter. Cook waffles as directed.
4. To serve, mix berries, corn kernels and 3 tablespoons of the thyme syrup in a bowl. Serve berry mixture with on top of waffles and drizzle with more thyme syrup. Garnish with thyme.
GRILLED CORN AND MANGO SALAD
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Chef Jeff Kerr contributed this multi-textured salad recipe.
6 ears of corn
6 tablespoons olive oil
Salt, freshly ground pepper to taste
1 jalapeno chili pepper
1 large or 2 small mangoes, peeled, thinly sliced
1/2 each, thinly sliced: red bell pepper, green bell pepper, red onion
1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro
2 plum tomatoes, finely chopped
1 large clove garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon hot red pepper sauce, or to taste
Juice of 4 limes
Pinch of sugar
1. Prepare charcoal grill or heat broiler. Husk corn. Put corn into large shallow pan. Coat ears with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, salt and pepper. Grill or broil, 4 inches from heat source, turning often, until kernels are golden brown and blistered, about 10 minutes. Cut kernels from corncobs and put in large bowl.
2. Roast jalapeno on grill or under broiler until skin is charred on all sides. Peel off skin; discard seeds; mince jalapeno. Add to corn.
3. Stir remaining ingredients into corn. Let sit for 1 to 2 hours before serving. Taste and adjust seasonings.
SHOEPEG CORN
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 12 minutes
Yield: 8 servings
Despite its homely name, shoepeg corn adds vibrant color to any entree-especially when combined with ripe cherry tomatoes and crisp green onions in this recipe from chef Jeff Kerr.
10 ears of corn
1/2 cup olive oil
Salt, freshly ground black pepper
3 bunches green onions
4 pints cherry tomatoes
2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves, chopped, or 1 teaspoon dried
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped, or 1/2 teaspoon dried
1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, chopped, or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried
1/4 cup ( 1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1. Prepare charcoal grill or heat broiler. Husk corn and rinse. Coat ears with some of the olive oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill or broil, turning often, until kernels are golden brown and blistered, about 8 minutes. Cut kernels off cob.
2. Wash green onions and slice on 1-inch bias. Wash tomatoes and cut each in half. Cook corn in remaining olive oil in heavy pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Stir in green onions and herbs. Then add tomatoes and butter; cook just to barely melt butter. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serve immediately.
BARBECUED CORN
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 30 mintes
This is a terrific way to cook corn using your favorite barbecue sauce. The recipe is from Jeff Kerr.
1. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Husk corn and break in half (save some of the husk). Roll corn in barbecue sauce. Wrap reserved husk around corn, then wrap in foil tightly. Place on a baking sheet. Bake until kernels are tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven, take off foil and serve with husk. Drizzle corn with extra barbecue sauce.
TAMALE CORNCAKES
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 3 minutes per batch
Yield: 16 pancakes
As an alternative to the salsa garnishes suggested for these corn cakes from chef Gail Forsberg, try grilled shrimp with a chipotle cream sauce.
1 2/3 cup water
1 cup each: yellow cornmeal, whole milk
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1 large egg
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon each: salt, ground cumin, chili powder
2/3 cup cooked corn kernels
Vegetable oil for cooking
8 ounces (2 cups) grated sharp Cheddar cheese
1 cup each: sour cream, salsa
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1. Heat water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Remove from heat and slowly whisk in cornmeal, mixing until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool 10 minutes.
2. Mix together milk, oil and egg; add to cornmeal mixture and mix until smooth. Add flour, baking powder, salt, cumin and chili powder. Mix well; fold in corn.
3. Spoon about 1/4 cup batter onto hot, lightly oiled griddle or skillet. Cook, turning once, until done, about 3 minutes.
4. To serve, arrange two or three cakes on warmed plate, then sprinkle top liberally with cheese. Serve with sour cream, salsa and chopped cilantro on the side.
CALDO DE PERRO (”DOG” SOUP)
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 1 1/2 hours
Yield: 8 servings
The name of this soup from Sergio Sanchez of The Twisted Lizard restaurant is colloquial, and, no, it doesn’t mean that dog meat is used.
2 beef soup bones with marrow
2 pounds stew meat, cut in 3/4-inch pieces
2 small white onions, quartered
3 cloves garlic
2 sprigs each, fresh: cilantro, mint
8 cups cold water or more
2 medium red potatoes, cut in quarters
2 ears of corn, cut in quarters
2 carrots, cut in half and quartered
1/2 cup sweet peas
2 zucchini, sliced lengthwise in quarters
1 chayote squash (optional), diced
Salt, freshly ground pepper, to taste
Chopped fresh mint and cilantro; chopped hot chilies for serving
1. Combine bones, meat, onions, garlic, cilantro, mint and 8 cups water in a large pot. Simmer gently, partially covered, until meat is tender, 45 to 55 minutes. Refrigerate until fat solidifies. Skim fat from surface; discard bones.
2. Return soup to medium heat. Add potatoes, corn and carrots; simmer until vegetables are almost tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Add peas, zucchini, chayote, salt and pepper. Cook until zucchini is tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Serve hot, passing chopped herbs and chilies separately.
