Think New York without the violence. Think Boston without the accent. Think Washington without the stuffed shirts.
W.C. Fields may have preferred Philadelphia only as the next-to-last option, but visitors to the City of Brotherly Love will find a city that combines the best of the Northeastern United States-quirky, ethnic, quaint and far, far better than death.
Philadelphia gave us the Declaration of Independence, Benjamin Franklin and the Liberty Bell. It also produced the cheesesteak sandwich, Grace Kelly, Frankie Avalon and “Smokin’ ” Joe Frazier. “American Bandstand” started here and so did Legionnaires’ disease, and Bill Cosby once rode the bench for the Temple football team.
Philadelphia even includes two monuments to an entirely fictional native son: boxer Rocky Balboa.
This city has so many things to see and do that there’s no way to do it all. But this guide will help you get the most out of Philadelphia.
Cheesesteaks: The quintessential Philadelphia food-wars have been fought over less. The city is polarized between Pat’s King of Steaks (1237 E. Passyunk Ave.), which invented the sandwich in 1930, and Jim’s Steak’s (4th and South Streets), which claims to have perfected it. Both offer thin-sliced beef, onions, sweet peppers and gobs of Cheez Whiz on Italian rolls-“with,” in the South Philly vernacular. Jim’s offers indoor seating, but Pat’s is open 24 hours.
Real food: Believe it or not, Philadelphia does offer food without Cheez Whiz or mustard. Le Bec-Fin (1523 Walnut St.) is nouvelle French, pricey and probably the best in town. It also attracts heavyweights, such as opera star Luciano Pavarotti. Deux Cheminees (1221 Locust St.) is very elegant, and Saloon (750 S. 7th St.) offers such good Italian food that the mob will eat nowhere else.
The Ben Franklin factor: Scientist, politician, postmaster and inventor, Ben Franklin is more than Philadelphia’s first citizen-he’s the city’s No. 1 gimmick. Franklin’s likeness is used to promote everything from banks to couriers to the rapid transit system, and 72 Ben Franklin impersonators were listed in a recent issue of Philadelphia Magazine. (Dean Bennett offers “competitive rates,” starting at $250 an hour; 215-356-5274.) The real Franklin, however, can be found at Franklin Court (Market and Chestnut Streets), Independence Hall (5th and Chestnut Streets) and Philosophical Hall (5th Street and Square).
Best bars: Astral Plane (1708 Lombard St.) features a large fish tank and a posh crowd; Smokey Joe’s (208 S. 40th St.) is one block off the Penn campus and knows a thing or two about fake IDs; and McGlinchey’s (259 S. 15th St.) is a working class bunch that loves the Phils. The Chestnut Cabaret (38th and Chestnut Streets) will feature five local Philly bands Thursday nights.
The Rocky route: There’s no need to drink raw eggs beforehand, but you can retrace the Italian Stallion’s footsteps on his legendary cinematic jog through Philadelphia. Start in low-rent South Philly, cut through the Italian Market, sprint along the Schuykill River and dash up the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art before raising your arms in triumph. There’s a plaque with Rocky’s footsteps on the museum portico, and a statue of the boxer-who bears a stunning resemblance to actor Sylvester Stallone-outside the Spectrum (Broad Street and Pattison Avenue).
Weird art: Philadelphia did its part to popularize pop art in the 1970s by installing some of the weirdest sculpture around. The “L-O-V-E” statue (JFK Boulevard and 16th Street) is still a popular postage stamp, while a giant clothespin (15th and Market Streets) sits around the corner. The University of Pennsylvania, meanwhile, placed a large, broken button on its campus.
Philly on foot: Philadelphia was meant to be walked. Whether strolling through the Italian Market, window shopping along South Street or crunching through the fall leaves in historic Elfreth’s Alley, the city looks best closeup. Or take a picnic to Boathouse Row on the banks of the Schuykill River and let the rowers-and the world-pass you by.
Notorious landmarks: Legionnaires’ disease originated in July 1976 and killed 29 at what is now Hotel Atop the Bellevue (1415 Chancellor Ct.); Philadelphia police overreacted and burned out an entire city block, killing 11, while raiding the MOVE headquarters at 6200 Osage St. in 1985; and the 1964 Phillies squandered a 6 1/2-game lead with 12 games to go at Connie Mack Stadium and lost the National League pennant. The stadium at 21st and Lehigh Streets was torn down in 1970 and replaced, appropriately, by a church.
Yo, Tinseltown: Philadelphia has been the setting for several films in recent years, and not all of them are about boxers. The 30th Street Train Station is featured prominently in “Witness” and “Blow Out”; “Stealing Home” was shot in and around Chestnut Hill; “Taps” took place at the Valley Forge Military Academy; “Trading Places” included several scenes in Rittenhouse Square.Ironically, one movie not shot in Philadelphia was “The Philadelphia Story.”
Museums I: Philadelphia offers definitive collections of everything from Norman Rockwell artwork and Pablo Picasso originals to live cockroaches and dental torture devices. The Mario Lanza Museum is a big hit with the opera crowd, as is the soft pretzel museum-ever see a skinny tenor?-and a plumber on the outskirts of town claims to have the largest collection of garbage disposers in the world.
Museums II: Since Philadelphia was once a thriving town of milliners, it’s only fitting the Museum of Art would mount “Ahead of Fashion: Hats of the 20th Century.” The show features 250 pieces of headgear, ranging from World War II helmets to 19th Century bonnets, and is winning raves.
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About one-third of the city’s buses are wheelchair-accessible and bear an accessibility symbol. Only a few of the many city and commuter train stations are accessible, however. The city operates an extensive door-to-door para-transit system of vans and sedans available to eligible disabled passengers who phone one day in advance. Call 215-580-7145.
The Philadelphia Official Visitors Guide is free and includes specific accessibility informaion city-wide; call 800-537-7676 for a copy.
