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The idea of combining shrimp with mangoes came to me on a recent trip to the Caribbean, where I tasted some very appealing casseroles and roasts that carried fruit. I decided to use shrimp because of its relatively assertive flavor and firm texture. Shrimp blends with all sorts of ingredients-hot, as in Cajun fare, or sweet, as in curries.

When you cook with sweet elements such as melons you should add countervailing sensations to mask the sweetness. In this dish, the shelled shrimp are marinated briefly in lemon juice. Cream also mutes the melon so that you get the texture and a hint of sweetness, but no more.

Vodka is called for in the sauce. Vodka has little palpable effect in sauces except to round them out and help them achieve a smooth consistency; but it seemed to make sense in the shrimp dish, so I added some. Everything cooks extremely quickly, so pay close attention.

A delicate dish such as this requires a neutral accompaniment. Basic rice pilaf is just the thing. I like to add onions, garlic and some fresh thyme to my rice. You may want to experiment with herbs and spices of your own, but do not make the rice more potent than the shrimp and sauce.

SAUTEED SHRIMP WITH VODKA AND MANGO

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 5 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

1 1/2 pounds raw shrimp

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Salt, freshly ground white pepper to taste

1 ripe mango

1 tablespoon each: olive oil, butter

2 tablespoons minced shallots

1/4 cup lemon vodka, plain vodka, or dry white wine

3/4 cup whipping cream

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

1. Shell and devein the shrimp. Place the shrimp in a bowl and add the lemon juice, salt and pepper. Cover with plastic wrap, and let stand for about 15 minutes.

2. Peel the mango and cut it in 1/2-inch-thick slices.

3. Heat the oil and butter in a large non-stick skillet. When it is quite hot but not smoking, add the shrimp, stirring rapidly. Cook for 2 minutes. Sprinkle with shallots, and cook, stirring, for about 10 seconds. Add the vodka, cream, more salt and pepper if desired and the pepper flakes. Cook over high heat about 1 minute. Add the mango and cook briefly until piping hot, not longer.

4. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shrimp and the mango to a warm serving plate. Bring the sauce to a rolling boil for about 30 seconds, add the cilantro and spoon the sauce over the shrimp. Serve with rice.

BASIC RICE PILAF

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Cooking time: 20 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons minced onion

1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

1 cup converted or parboiled rice

1 1/2 cups fresh or canned chicken broth or water

3 parsley sprigs

1 sprig fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried

1 bay leaf

Salt, freshly ground pepper to taste

1. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a saucepan; add onion and garlic. Cook, stirring, until wilted. Add rice, and stir briefly over low heat until the grains are coated with the butter.

2. Stir in the broth, making sure there are no lumps in the rice. Add parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, cover with a close-fitting lid and simmer for 17 minutes.

3. Remove the cover and discard the parsley, thyme and bay leaf, using a fork. Stir in the remaining butter, and season to taste. If the rice is not to be served immediately, keep covered in a warm place.