This ancient capital of Polish kings, forgotten by mainstream tourists during its nearly half-century of occupation and communism, is undergoing a rebirth that could make it the next jewel of Europe to be found by American travelers.
From the historic treasures of Wawel Cathedral and the Renaissance corridors of the former Royal Castle, to Europe’s largest market square at the heart of a bustling Old Town, Krakow offers the glories of a great central European city without the crowds of better-known destinations.
Krakow is not the only drawing point in this country of almost 40 million people. Poland is particularly appealing now because, while Western goods and services are becoming available, prices remain downright cheap compared with other major European cities.
Warsaw, rebuilt after World War II, has embraced capitalism and is quickly becoming a major business center. A reconstructed Old Town, the castles of Poland’s last kings and peaceful parks offer a respite from the buzz of commerce.
Poznan, at the center of Poland’s historic heartland, combines business and history as host of the region’s largest trade fair at the same time as a medieval festival in its old market square. Close to the villages in western Poland, Poznan is using its historic ties to neighboring Germany to become a leading banking center.
For travelers looking to get away from crowded cities, Poland offers the Tatra Mountains along the border with Slovakia that make up in beauty what they lack in altitude. The mountains are more popular with Poles than with visitors and are accessible even to novice hikers.
Krakow
Krakow is Poland’s cultural center and historic heart. LOT Polish Airlines flies here from Warsaw and a few Western cities such as Frankfurt, but it’s best to fly into Warsaw and take the comfortable Intercity train to Krakow-about $10 for the 2-hour non-stop trip.
In June, the city stages its annual Days of Krakow, with 30 days of music, dance, art and film capped by the feast of St. John, which features fireworks, music, and folk theater along the Vistula River.
For the cost-conscious traveler, several decent hotels are a short walk from the station inside the old city. If price is no object, the newly redone Hotel Grand offers the best location in town, a block from the main square.
If price is the only consideration, a youth hostel is only a 12-cent tram ride away and offers a nightclub downstairs with cheap beer and an international clientele. For a different experience, take bus 100 to Pod Kopcem, a former Austrian military fortress converted to a hotel.
Once settled in, walk down the medieval streets of the Old Town (Stare Miasto) until you reach Main Market Square (Rynek Glowny), the largest open square on the continent.
Market Square is dominated by the old Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) at its center, once home to the textile guild. Today it has souvenir booths aimed at tourists.
While you could spend a lot more time to save a little money, the prices are fair and the goods authentic. Among the best souvenirs are carved wooden boxes and chess sets, amber jewelry, original ink drawings, and religious items.
Dominating the northeast corner of Market Square is the 13th Century St. Mary’s Church, with its intricately carved altarpiece opened at noon daily.
A walk down Grodzka Street retraces the route of Polish kings. After moving the capital to Warsaw in 1596, kings still came to Krakow to be crowned, proceeding through Market Square to Wawel Cathedral, which houses Poland’s cultural treasures and the tombs of its greatest leaders.
The cathedral and neighboring castle sit atop a hill and offer a commanding view of the Vistula River. For those in shape, a further climb up the cathedral’s bell tower offers the best view of the city.
Krakow has plenty of museums, but it can also be rewarding to stroll around the Old Town’s narrow streets, closed to traffic for the most part. The 600-year-old Jagiellonian University takes up much of the Old Town’s southwest section; new, private shops and restaurants are reclaiming centuries-old buildings, and Florianska Street has become home to electronics shops.
Free enterprise has brought with it an explosion of new restaurants and cafes that make a visit to Krakow much more pleasant than it was. Polish food dominates, and the venerable Staropolska remains the best place for good Polish cuisine for as little as $3 a person. The tiny U Pani Stasi serves the best pirogi in town at lunch for about $1 a plateful, though you’ll have to wait a few minutes to get a seat at one of the long picnic tables.
The long-established Balaton serves excellent, filling Hungarian food, while a new Tunisian restaurant on Grodzka features authentic couscous. Pizzeria Grace, near the university, is trendy, but a taste of home.
For the thicker wallet, new French and Italian restaurants off Market Square offer a change of pace. Wierzynek, the oldest restaurant in Poland, was founded in 1364 and still offers good Polish cooking in an elegant setting overlooking the square.
After dinner, the established Pod Jaszczurami jazz and rock club on Market Square still packs them in, and new bars open weekly. The best place for a beer is in a courtyard next to Wierzynek, while cafes on the square offer coffee and ice cream.
Warsaw
What Warsaw lacks in beauty, it makes up for in hustle. Walking across the wide, postwar boulevards that lead from its main train station and modern center, one gains the sense of historical transformation, as private enterprise each day regains a little more of what was lost under communism. Businessmen hurrying past new stores and sidewalk vendors convey the sense that exciting change has come to the city.
Warsaw’s utilitarian facade is due largely to the communist rebuilding after the Nazi occupation, which destroyed most of the city, including the Old Town.
Its face is changing: A Marriott hotel now overshadows the Stalinist Palace of Culture. The Old Town has been rebuilt, and although not old, the colorful buildings give a glimpse of what the city looked like centuries ago. A short stroll takes visitors past St. John’s Cathedral to the old Royal Castle, also rebuilt after World War II.
On the edge of town sits Wilanow, the grand 18th Century home of Poland’s last kings. It is worth the trip to see the palace and its adjoining gardens.
A traveler weary of sightseeing in the big city can seek refuge in Lazienki Park, with its quiet ponds and uncrowded paths. Lazienki Palace, another royal residence, lies within the park; its grand ballroom today is host to symphony concerts. A rose garden surrounds a statue of Frederic Chopin, just up the road from Belweder Palace.
Poznan
Poznan is a three-hour train ride from Warsaw on the new Eurocity express between Warsaw and Berlin. Across from the modern Poznan train station sit the exhibition halls that each June draw thousands from around the world for a major international trade fair.
The trade fair may be the draw for business people, but the concurrent St. John’s Festival in the main market square is the attraction for tourists.
Poznan’s old town hall dominates the center of the square. Although no longer the seat of government, the 16th Century edifice houses a museum on the city’s history and is the stage for some municipal ceremonies, such as the fair opening.
Tatra Mountains
Ask Poles where they want to take their vacation, and chances are they’ll mention the picturesque town of Zakopane, center of the Polish side of the Tatra Mountains.
The mountains barely top 8,000 feet, but they offer some of the most spectacular scenery in Europe. From Krakow, Zakopane is a two-hour bus ride.
For a top hotel, it’s best to reserve in advance, but the best deals come from residents who meet visitors at the station and offer inexpensive rooms in their homes-$20 for four people, in one instance.
City buses run from the bus station to the north end of town, where a breathtaking gondola ride takes you to the top of the Tatra range, which divides Poland from Slovakia. With the uphill climb rendered unnecessary, you can hike several miles along the ridge without needing to be in exceptional condition.
The trails are well-marked, the hike of moderate difficulty, and the views memorable. If you plan to do serious hiking, cabins throughout the range offer inexpensive food and shelter.
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According to the Polish Consulate in Chicago, access for the disabled has been neglected in Poland for many years, and the government does not mandate such acesss, making travel troublesome. But awareness is growing and some newer buildings are handicapped-accessible.
NO NEED FOR A VISA
Getting there: The cheapest flights are on LOT Polish Airlines, direct from several U.S. cities, including Chicago, to Warsaw. Another option is to fly to Berlin and take a Eurocity express train to Poznan or Warsaw.
Visas: None required-only a valid passport.
Money: Credit cards are becoming more accepted, but your best bet is to carry plenty of traveler’s checks. Only a few banks in big cities will cash them (taking a 1.5 percent commission), but they’re safer than cash.
Prices: They tend to be low by Western standards, with food and hotels costing about a quarter of what they do in Germany or Austria. Decent hotels run about $20 for a double; a good dinner can cost as little as $3.
Guidebooks: For a trip to Poland only, “The Real Guide” is indispensable, combining reliable advice on food, lodging, and transportation with awareness of Polish history and culture. Frommer’s “Eastern Europe on $25 a Day” is also good; it’s not as detailed on Poland, but covers neighboring countries.
Pre-trip reading: Norman Davies’ “Heart of Europe” is a readable short history of Poland that will help put your visit in context. For a first-hand account of Poland in the dying days of communism, try “Mad Dreams, Saving Graces” by New York Times reporter Michael Kaufman.
Language: Polish is a Slavic language, and knowing it is obviously a great help in traversing the country. Knowledge of Russian or another Slavic language is also helpful. A Berlitz guide can provide a good start on learning basic phrases and translating menus. English is spoken in most tourist settings, though far from universally.
Getting around: Poland’s train system is not quite up to top standards, but not much below Amtrak. It is generally very cheap: A first class ticket from Krakow to Warsaw costs $10 on an Intercity express. Express and fast trains are decent, but avoid local trains. Poland offers a rail pass, but the low fares make buying individual tickets the better deal. If you don’t speak Polish, bring a notebook, pen, and Berlitz with you and write out where and when you want to go before approaching a ticket window.
People: Poles generally like Americans, and outside of the big cities you’ll be something of a curiosity, though received very favorably. Learn to say please and thank you in Polish and make an effort to communicate.
