Considering how change-averse the male species is with clothes, it is not surprising that menswear designers have decided to hone in on quality and tailoring in lieu of gimmiciks and thrills. Presented recently in New York, the fall 1994 preview shows produced little fireworks, but a lot of handsomely executed clothes that men are sure to understand and, more importantly, buy.
Celebrities of every variety were on hand looking to get a jump on trends. As usual Calvin Klein packed them in, including Chynna Phillips and Billy Baldwin, Griffin Dunne, Gregory Hines and Sam Goldwyn. Other notables included newscasters Forrest Sawyer and Bryant Gumbel (at Donna Karan and Joseph Abboud, respectively) and Jets quarterback Boomer Esiason (at Hugo Boss).
What they and everyone else saw were designers giving new twists to money-in-the-bank styles, such as newly slouched gray flannel or pinstripe suit jazzed up with accent vests and interfined corduroy and professorlal brown plaid talloring-both versatlle enough to wear as suits or mix with jeans.
Thanks to the latest in fabric technology, the real news of the season is one you have to feel. Traditional flannels, herringbones and tweeds are now soft and lightweight, affording the silhouette an easy, sophisticated drape.
While there are no hard rules, suits are generally slimmer with natural shoulder lines and higher armholes. Pants are full and easy-cuffs optional. And most pivotal is the button-front vest in everything from classic woolens and printed silk foulards to plush chenille and crushed velvet.
Each designer gave classic talioring their own indelible take. Donna Karan`s was New York hipness personified with elongted jackets and cashmere sweaters. Calvin Klein’s was soothing and elegant with tonal suiting shown on hunky models with long hair. Ralph Lauren went for a Highland refinement with tweeds, plaids and riding coats, displayed on mannequins in a showroom straight out of a Scottish castle.
Underscoring American fashion as a global force, many international firms staged shows as well. There were two diverse labels from Germany: Joop (pronounced Yope), premiered a quirky, Carnaby-like menswear line, mixing gray pinstripes with silver lurex. And Hugo Boss, which updated its tailored fare with a softer, less constructed lines.
But the shows weren’t only for men who don`t get their hands dirty. Some designers went to urban streets and open roads for inspiration.
Karan`s DKNY show glorifled bike messengers and dock workers. Tommy Hilfiger saluted railroad workers and military surplus shops.
In a nutshell, what’s hot for fall?
– Tweeds and plaids.
– Reversed shearling in vests, jackets and coats.
– Fuzzy fabrics like corduroy, chenille, alpaca and velvet.
– Mandarin-collared jackets.
– V-neck sweaters under suits.
– Sweatpants-knit or fleeced-held up with thick leather belts.
– Long hair. Yes, really.
