Traverso’s restaurant moved out to Orland Park from the Roseland neighborhood in Chicago 20 years ago, when their building was just about the only one on this stretch of South Harlem Avenue. Seems like ancient history now.
A lot has changed in that time. A lot is still the same.
At 81, Lena Traverso, or “Mama T” as she’s known around the restaurant, is still a full-time presence in the kitchen. The kids are older. Son John, formerly a business education teacher at Calumet High School in Chicago, spends his time cooking, hosting or doing any one of a number of other jobs he shares with brother George. The grandchildren are growing up. There’s a third generation of Traversos working as support staff.
The food is much the same. Thin crust (a specialty) or deep-dish pizza predominate. But Traverso’s also offers a complete restaurant menu.
There are daily soup specials-cream of mushroom, vegetable, chicken rice, beef barley and, of course, minestrone. Lunch specials include Italian favorites but also take in traditional American fare such as meat loaf and sirloin steak.
John noted that patrons’ concessions to more heart healthy foods have elevated meatless Marinara sauce to No. 1 status over the meaty Bolognese.
A specialty is the ravioli.
“We have a couple of women who come in and make our ravioli by hand,” said John. “Most places make it in a machine. Cheese or meat filling is really my favorite.”
Traverso’s also serves homemade gnocchi (potato dumplings), an Italian staple not found in many restaurants.
Since winning Chicago Magazine’s top honors for its cheesecake about six years ago, said John, the restaurant still draws patrons for that dessert. Other items include Mama T’s homemade cannoli.
Traverso’s atmosphere is casual and family-oriented. Food is available for dining in, carryout or delivery. There is a full bar and a lounge area, and an outdoor garden is open in the spring and summer. Reservations are necessary for groups of eight or more.
Prices for lunch range from $5 to $8, and dinner will cost $7 to $12.
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Traverso’s, 15601 S. Harlem Ave., Orland Park, is open 11:30 a.m. to midnight Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday and noon to midnight Sunday. Call 708-532-2220.
