This spring, designers serve up a myriad of fresh takes on the jacket that offer polish without the predictability. Cases in point: the fingertip-length jacket that doubles as a coat with a short dress, the Eastern-inspired mandarin-collar look, an updated safari, long duster or the sleeveless jacket, otherwise called a vest.
“I think women are tired of buying the typical single or double-breasted jacket. They have more than enough in their closets already,” says Dana Horowitz, owner of Scarboro Fair, a specialty store in Glencoe. “Fortunately, designers have responded with an overwhelming variety of alternatives.”
Calvin Klein’s favorite jacket for spring is one that he says feels like a sweater. “For example, my wool double-netting (weave) jacket with exposed seams is constructed like a sweater and is fully lined. It has today’s soft, narrow shoulders and sleeves, and the fabric is totally new,” he says.
Designer Richard Tyler, who besides his own line also designs for the Anne Klein Collection, says the season’s difference is not so much in the silhouette as in the construction.
“Jackets are now in very light fabrics that glide over the body,” says Tyler. “They’re also shaped and nipped in at the waist. Proportion, however, depends on the woman, her lifestyle and what works with what she already has in the closet.”
Jackets can be weighty investments, which may explain why neutrals of cream, navy, and black prevailed on European and American runways.
“Few women have the luxury or desire to wear a jacket just one way,” says Becky Hitchcock, fashion spokeswoman for Marshall Field’s in Chicago. “The jacket is too much of a staple, taking women from the office to weekend, to evening with a quick change. Some of the newest jackets are simply cleaned up styles with a softer edge.”
As for season-defining details, Hitchcock cites a gently fitted bodice, smaller shoulders and side vents.
Episode, the Hong Kong manufacturer and retailer that caters to working women, is promoting the idea that newness lies in choice. As designed by Carolyn Wight Freeman, this season Episode offers everything from relaxed cardigans that layer over untucked blouses to elongated vests.
“Whatever the proportion, spring’s silhouette has an overall ease and is much more relaxed than seasons past,” sums up Deirdre Corcoran, marketing director. “Because for a woman to feel confident at work, she needs a jacket that is streamlined and comfortable. Everything else is an individual decision.”
