When corn costs a buck an ear in August, remember how fervently you prayed for warm, dry weather in the spring.
Outdoor dining season is here, and restaurateurs, though mindful of the need for rain in the area, are hoping for more of the warm, dry weather that typified most of May.
It seems that the further along the summer goes, the more persnickety outdoor-dining customers become.
“In May and June, customers are extremely accepting,” says Cyril Landise, partner in Avanti Populo and Northside Cafe restaurants in Bucktown. “When it’s 52 degrees, it’s spring. As the summer continues, the tolerance narrows; people want it between 71 and 75. Any lower, they sit indoors. Any higher, they want air-conditioning.”
Last February, Ina Pinkney explained the decision to enclose the outdoor patio to Ina’s Kitchen this way: “People like the outside, but they don’t like yellowjackets or high humidity.”
So in August, when the humidity and yellowjackets are in full force, people flee indoors. One unidentified restaurateur says he’s had customers send dishes back to the kitchen just because-eeeyeeuuuw-a yellowjacket touched down on their food. (These folks should never eat outdoors.)
The point is, the outdoor dining season is even shorter than most of us realize. The season-Memorial Day to Labor Day-comprises a fleeting 15 weekends, and some of those days may disappear under rainclouds. So let us celebrate outdoor dining while we may.
To make it easier for you to make the most of this outdoor-dining season without getting too repetitive, we offer the following (broad, but by no means all-inclusive) list. For easy reference, we’ve grouped the restaurants according to the type of outdoor experience they offer, rather than by cuisine. (That’s because nobody we know says, “I want to eat Thai outdoors,” though if anyone did, we’d send him/her to Thai Touch, 2628 N. Halsted St.)
And, for the first time ever, we’re including a few places that offer al fresco to go.
Visit each one of the places on your list, and you will have had a full summer. Among other things.
Street scenes
(Sidewalk cafes and patios that make you feel a part of the city.)
Avanzare, 161 E. Huron St., 312-337-8056. One of the oldest sidewalk cafes in Chicago, and still one of the nicest. Thoughtful amenities include tall see-through dividers that cut down on wind without harming the view, and pretty, soft lighting. The cafe sits on relatively placid St. Clair Street, so street traffic is minimal.
Brasserie Bellevue, Le Meridien Chicago, 21 E. Bellevue Pl., 312-266-9212. Great people watching at this Gold Coast sidewalk cafe at Rush Street and Bellevue Place. Full menu also includes a $15.95 prix-fixe (three courses); inside, there’s a make-your-own-sundae station and, beginning at 2:30 p.m. Saturdays, an all-you-can-eat chocolate dessert buffet.
Centro, 710 N. Wells St., 312-988-7775. Massive portions of good, old-fashioned Italian food at modest prices-along with a great vantage point from which to gawk at the oft-elegant folks who frequent this place. Waits can be substantial.
Gypsy, 215 E. Ohio St., 312-644-9779. Though Ohio is a well-traveled street, Gypsy’s sidewalk cafe is tucked into a curve of its building, cutting the traffic noise appreciably. Menu is eclectic American and offers very good value; the restaurant’s new wine program (which offers “flights”-mini tastings of several comparable wines) is worth a visit by itself.
Hat Dance, 325 W. Huron St., 312-649-0961. About eight tables are spaced under a wide canopy, flanking the restaurant entrance. Full menu served at lunchtime. Limited menu available at dinner, though you can put together a pretty light-or pretty filling-repast from the appetizer list.
Kitty O’Shea’s, Chicago Hilton and Towers, 720 S. Michigan Ave., 312-922-4400. The closest sidewalk cafe to Soldier Field hopes for lots of international people-watching during the World Cup games. Irish pub menu includes Harp’s and Guinness on tap. Live entertainment nightly.
Le Margaux, 2442 N. Clark St., 312-871-3033. Inside, Le Margaux is a serious, pricey restaurant specializing in game. Outside, on a pretty, flower-filled patio (raised well above street level, though the view is there), Le Margaux offers a light, moderately priced bistro menu. If there’s a bit of chill in the air, fortify yourself with roast lamb shank, flageolet beans and a sturdy red wine.
Mare, 400 N. Clark St., 312-245-9933. The corner of Clark and Kinzie becomes a coastal cafe featuring Mare’s signature Italian seafood. Seating is at umbrella-covered tables amid flower-filled planters.
Michael Jordan’s Restaurant, 500 N. LaSalle St., 312-644-DUNK. A 40-seat cafe stretches along LaSalle Street; that’s 40 more people who can get a table at peak times. Menu is identical to the bar menu, consisting of appetizers, small pizzas and sandwiches.
Tuttaposto, 646 N. Franklin St., 312-943-6262. Dine “L fresco” on Tuttaposto’s brand-new outdoor deck, while the “L” trains glide silently (ahem) by. And enjoy some of the finest Mediterranean fare you’ll find anywhere.
Via Veneto, 3449 W. Peterson Ave., 312-267-0888. Via Veneto is so popular on Saturdays it’s a shame the sidewalk cafe can’t last year-round. Imaginative pastas and well-chosen, courteously priced wines are the draws here.
Yvette, 1206 N. State Pkwy., 312-280-1700. When the weather cooperates, the doors swing open at this Gold Coast fixture, bringing the warm temperatures into the cafe area. (Tables stay in the restaurant.) People-watching on State is always entertaining, but real entertainment-live music-is featured in Yvette seven days a week, and there’s no cover. Bistro menu is moderately priced, and there’s a three-course prix-fixe for just $19.95.
Garden settings
(Outdoor cafes that offer a bit more privacy, shielded from street traffic and noise.)
Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba, 2024 N. Halsted St., 312-935-5000. The outdoor garden is tucked away from the street. The walls surrounding the area are splashed with wild colors, echoing the festive decor inside. A great place to sip wine and eat tapas; the trouble is, everyone else thinks so, too, so be prepared to wait for a table (reservations not accepted for outdoors).
Carlucci, 2215 N. Halsted St. 312-281-1220. One of the nicest gardens in Chicago is the spacious, trellis-covered space adjacent to Carlucci. The chef even designates certain menu items as particularly suited to the outdoors.
Daily Bar & Grill, 4560 N. Lincoln Ave., 312-561-6198. A funky Lincoln Square neighborhood restaurant in a bright yellow building, with a menu offering sophisticated home cooking. The garden patio, which seats 50, is filled with flowers and potted plants; white Italian lights twinkle at night.
Danilo’s, 464 N. Halsted St., 312-421-0218. Enjoy specialties such as pepper steak, halibut with artichoke sauce and veal chops bearnaise on a lovely, landscaped wooden deck.
The Garden Restaurant, Art Institute of Chicago, Michigan Avenue at Adams Street, 312-443-3600. A tree-lined courtyard within the confines of the Art Institute has room for 250 outdoor patrons. Entrees range from burgers to pizzas to salads. $6 minimum charge.
I Tre Merli, 316 W. Erie St., 312-266-3100. This New York import draws a trendy, dressed-to-thrill crowd on a regular basis. There’s a bit more room now that the outdoor patio is open. The area is set back from the street, which cuts down on noise. Menu is full of simple and delicious Italian fare, in particular the grilled vegetable plate and the tagliata.
Maple Tree Inn, 10730 S. Western Ave., 312-239-3688. The outdoor patio, tree-lined and gently illuminated, is a real treat in the summertime. Sit outside in the gentle summer breeze, then dig into some Cajun/Creole cooking that’ll curl your toes. Live jazz begins at 4 p.m. Sundays.
Mezzanotte, 334 W. Chicago Ave., 312-943-3090. This solid and appealing restaurant-a sister property to Pane Caldo on Walton Street-offers contemporary Italian food in a very congenial setting. When the weather behaves, the outdoor area-a trellised patio in back of the dining room-is even more congenial.
O’Briens, 1528 N. Wells St., 312-787-3131. A strikingly handsome space, O’Briens’ outdoor patio is brick-lined, with teakwood furniture and forest-green canvas umbrellas. A gazebo bar on the patio means waiters don’t have to scurry all the way indoors to fill beverage orders.
Piatti, 215 W. North Ave., 312-266-2929. This impressive new restaurant has a lovely, walled-in courtyard complete with waterfall-a delightful setting for chef/owner Sami Signorino’s imaginative Mediterranean tapas.
Relish, 2044 N. Halsted St., 312-868-9034. “Ron’s Secret Garden” is the secluded outdoor nook created by chef/owner Ron Blazek. Ivy-covered brick walls, trees and flowers and dim coach lights add to the romance. The food is solid and imaginative, and Relish’s desserts are worth a trip by themselves.
