Of all the culinary crimes committed in the name of progress, almost nothing else has so deeply offended food purists as the debasement of the tomato.
The tomato emerged from western South America, a wild plant that pre-Columbians learned to cultivate and Mexicans turned into a culinary showpiece. It crossed the Atlantic to Spain early in the 16th Century and slowly was integrated into the cuisines of southern France and Italy. Eventually, the tomato became a “fundamental and inalienable element” of Italian cooking, as one writer put it recently.
In our country, meanwhile, through crossbreeding, a hard-shelled, pallid fruit with a papier-mache texture was developed, and this-because of its year-round presence in supermarkets and convenience stores-has been accepted as a right and proper tomato.
It is neither, and at this time of year, you don’t have to take my word for it. At farmers’ markets (more about them in this space next week), at specialty food stores and even at the supermarket, you should be able to find ripe, juicy, superb-tasting Midwestern tomatoes in a variety of sizes and colors.
For those with a curiosity about the full spectrum of tomatoes, Scoozi!, the popular Italian restaurant at 410 W. Huron St., will present a tomato festival from Wednesdaythrough Tuesday. A dozen different types of organic tomatoes will be offered daily in individual dishes or as part of a five-course tasting menu. Also, the festival will open with a “Fruits of the Vine” tomato and wine dinner on Wednesday, and on Saturday executive chef John Chiakulas will conduct a cooking class featuring tomatoes from 10:30 a.m. to noon. For further information and reservations, call 312-943-5900.
The following were adapted from recipes created by chef Chiakulas for the tomato festival.
TOMATO SALAD WITH GARLIC-BASIL VINAIGRETTE
Six to eight servings
1/2 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
1/2 red bell pepper, seeded and diced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil, plus 5 or 6 whole leaves
1 pinch dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/8 teaspoon black pepper, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 tablespoon grated parmesan cheese
1/4 cup red-wine vinegar
3/4 cup olive oil, extra virgin preferred
3 pounds assorted tomatoes (of differing colors, if possible), sliced into pieces about 1/4 inch thick
1. In a bowl, combine garlic, red pepper, chopped basil, oregano, salt, pepper, sugar and grated parmesan. Stir in vinegar and, whisking constantly, slowly add oil. (Alternatively, combine ingredients in a jar, cover tightly and shake vigorously.)
2. Arrange tomatoes on a large platter, separating colors, to create an attractive design.
3. Just before serving, drizzle dressing over tomatoes. Garnish with basil leaves. Serve with crusty country bread.
SPAGHETTINI WITH GOLDEN VALENCIA TOMATOES
Four to six servings
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary, or 1/4 teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, or 1/4 teaspoon dried
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1/2 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or more to taste
1/2 cup olive oil, extra-virgin preferred
4 cups seeded and coarsely chopped tomatoes, golden Valencia preferred
1 pound spaghettini
4 ounces Boursin garlic and herb cheese
1. In a large bowl, combine rosemary, thyme, basil, garlic, salt and pepper. Stir in olive oil, then add chopped tomatoes. Toss and set aside at room temperature for about 1 hour.
2. Cook pasta by package directions to al dente stage. Drain hot pasta and add it to the bowl with the room-temperature tomatoes. Toss, add additional salt and pepper if desired. Crumble Boursin cheese over the top and toss until cheese “melts.” Serve at once with a well-balanced wine such as Corvo.
GREEN TOMATO-GREEN APPLE PIE
One pie
For the crust:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
3 tablespoons chilled butter
3 tablespoons chilled vegetable shortening
3 tablespoons (about) apple cider or water
For the filling:
2 Granny Smith apples (about 1 pound), peeled, cored and sliced thin
2 tablespoons lemon juice
8 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1 pound green (unripe) tomatoes, cored and sliced thin
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
2 teaspoons grated lemon peel (yellow part only)
1. Prepare the crust: In the bowl of a mixer or a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine sifted flour with sugar, salt and cinnamon. Adding the butter and shortening in tablespoon-size pieces, mix or pulse to combine with dry ingredients. Add cider or water a tablespoonful at a time until a dough forms.
2. Remove from mixer, shape into a disc, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
3. Prepare the filling: Toss apples with lemon juice. Add 2 tablespoons sugar and the cornstarch and let stand for 5 minutes. Prepare tomatoes, using as many as needed to equal the amount of sliced apples. Toss tomatoes with apples, then strain off excess juices. Add remaining 6 tablespoons sugar, cinnamon and lemon peel. Mix well.
4. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Cut 1/3 of the dough from the chilled disc and return it to the refrigerator. Roll out remaining dough into a circle large enough to line a 9-inch pie pan. Line the pan with the dough, trimming excess dough from the edges of the pan.
5. Spoon filling into the pie pan. Add dough trimmings to reserved chilled dough, roll out and cut into strips. Use them to make a lattice pattern over the filling. Trim and crimp dough edges. Sprinkle with a little extra sugar and cinnamon.
6. Bake pie in the middle rack of the oven for 50 to 55 minutes, until crust is brown and juices are bubbling.
7. Remove from oven and let rest on a rack for at least 1 hour. Serve warm, with ice cream if desired.
Here’s a bonus seasonal recipe adapted from “The Easier You Make It, The Better It Tastes,” a Better Homes and Gardens book by Jayni and Frank Carey.
CORN-STUFFED PLUM TOMATOES
Four servings
8 plum tomatoes
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup finely chopped onion
1/4 cup finely chopped green sweet pepper
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup cooked corn kernels, fresh preferred
2 tablespoons snipped fresh basil
1/4 cup fine dry bread crumbs
1/4 cup shredded sharp (aged) provolone cheese
Dash salt and white pepper
1. Slice the tomatoes in half lengthwise. With a small spoon, scoop out the seeds and membranes, leaving 1/4-inch-thick shells. Invert on paper towels to drain.
2. Heat the olive oil over medium-low heat in a medium skillet. Add the onion, green pepper and garlic. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring often, until the onion and pepper are tender. Add the corn and cook for 1 minute more. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the basil, bread crumbs and cheese. Add salt and white pepper. Spoon the mixture into the tomato halves.
3. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Place the tomatoes in a shallow baking pan. Bake, uncovered, in the oven for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the tomatoes are tender and the stuffing is heated through.
Note: The tomatoes may be prepared on foil wrap on a grill if desired.
