Seemingly in spite of themselves, spuds are the darlings of the food world.
In the meat-and-potato pairings of old, meat always had the muscle, while potatoes were the old brown shoes–comfortable, somewhat dull, perhaps, but always reliable.
You don’t have to dig too deeply to see that there has been a shift in the way these two foods play off each other. While potatoes once existed almost exclusively as a plain Jane sidekick to meat, they’re carving out a more substantial role.
Restaurants featuring American cuisine celebrate them in myriad ways, honoring their simplicity but spiffing them up. Perhaps the most talked about potato update took place at The Eccentric. There, an eye-watering and ever-popular Oprah-inspired creation pairs mashed potatoes with horseradish.
Chefs welcome them into haute-cuisine kitchens too, and deftly turn potatoes into minor masterpieces. Rick Tramonto, chef/owner of Trio in Evanston, gilds mashed potatoes with roasted garlic and Maine lobster for a lobster “cocktail.”
“I have huge respect for potatoes. No matter what you pair them with, they’re accessible and understandable,” says Tramonto, adding that at least a third of diners at the posh restaurant have potatoes in one form or another. “They’re completely non-intimidating, and people will order things that they might not try, like venison, if they’re served with potatoes.”
Given the fickle, trend-hungry American palate, it’s an odd sort of stardom. Potatoes are, after all, just tubers. They don’t tease by making short seasonal appearances but are steadfast and true all year long. They come in a plain brown wrapper, cost practically nothing and long have been viewed as the domain of mom-style meals and greasy-spoon diners.
A look at statistics bears out their popularity. Potatoes are the most widely consumed vegetable in the U.S. Annual consumption is roughly 132 pounds per person, according to the USDA, and rising. Even though consumption of fresh potatoes is up, two-thirds of of the potatoes we eat are in the form of potato chips and frozen french fries, much to the chagrin of nutritionists.
That doesn’t mean that potatoes are nutritionally empty, a misconception that the vegetable had to shed on its way to stardom.
“There was a long time when you stopped eating any white foods if you were on a diet,” says Linda McCashion, director of public relations for the Potato Promotion Board. “Everyone thought they were fattening and empty. But that fell away about 10 years ago.”
No fat, no cholesterol and plenty of vitamins, minerals and fiber bode well for them. As for calories, potatoes au naturel are properly spare (although this is not to say they always come to the table that way: Butter, sour cream and bacon bits are some of the favored adjuncts).
“Potatoes mix well with a lot of bold flavors so they can be made without all the fat we’re so used to adding,” McCashion says. “But when it comes down to it, people eat what tastes good and satisfies them. Potatoes do that for almost everyone.”
Whether it’s found in the creamy smoothness of mashed potatoes, the crispy comfort of hash browns or the indulgent richness of potato soup, potatoes have an undeniable element of comfort. If a food can wash away a full day’s worth of problems, potatoes would be the one to turn to. Slyly, seductively, they provide a tableside respite from life’s edges.
Michael Sullivan of River Forest qualifies as a devotee of potatoes. In them, he finds a familiar taste that confers greater importance on potatoes than on the meaty main course.
“It’s not a meal without potatoes,” he says. “When I was living with some guys before I got married, they thought I was crazy. Even before we knew what we were having for dinner, I’d start boiling water for potatoes.
“When I was in Ireland, all the dinners were served with a couple of potatoes on the plate. Then, they’d put a great big bowl on the table, for when you ate the ones on the plate. Not more meat–more potatoes. I thought, Wow! This is just how it’s supposed to be. Potatoes everywhere.”
Varieties of potatoes
There are three main types of potatoes-waxy ones, starchy ones and an accommodating group that falls in the middle, described as all-purpose potatoes.
Russets
Sometimes called russet Burbanks, Idahoes or bakers, these are distinguished by a mealy, starchy and somewhat dry texture. Cooked, they tend to be light and fluffy.
Red potatoes
Sometimes called boiling potatoes, they tend toward waxiness, making them ideal for dicing and for using in salads. The smallest ones–smaller than a golf ball–are called new potatoes.
All-purpose
Neither obviously dry and mealy nor waxy. One type is the Yukon Gold, a popular newcomer with a yellowish skin, buttery colored flesh and a rich taste.
Blue potatoes
With inky, purple-blue skin and flesh, Peruvian blue potatoes are something of a novelty. Small and usually round or oval, they are a medium-starch potato appropriate for a wide range of cooking purposes.
SANTA FE MASHED POTATOES
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Yield: 10 servings
1 1/2 pounds each: Idaho potatoes, red potatoes
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium onion, finely diced
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 Anaheim or poblano chili, roasted, diced
1/2 cup whole milk
1/3 cup sour cream
1 tablespoon barbecue sauce
Salt, freshly ground pepper to taste
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1. Cut the unpeeled potatoes into chunks. Put into a large pan of salted water. Heat to a boil and cook until the potatoes are tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain thoroughly; return the potatoes to the pan and place over medium heat for about 30 seconds to dry out.
2. Meanwhile, melt one tablespoon of the butter in a non-stick skillet over high heat. Add the onion and cumin seeds. Cook, stirring often, until the onion is browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the roasted chili and remove from the heat; set aside.
3. Mash the potatoes with a potato masher. Add the remaining butter and sour cream and mix well. Add milk and barbecue sauce; mix well. Mix in the onion mixture, salt, pepper and cilantro. Serve at once.
Nutrition information per serving:
165 calories, 7 g fat, 18 mg cholesterol, 35 mg sodium, 23 g carbohydrates, 4 g protein.
HERB ROASTED POTATOES
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Standing time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 20 to 25 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
A mix of garden herbs is the best choice. We suggest thyme, tarragon and rosemary.
1 1/2 pounds Idaho potatoes, unpeeled, cut in 3/4-inch cubes
Salt
1 small onion, diced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/8 teaspoon each: coarsely ground pepper, crushed red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon each: minced fresh herbs, grated Parmesan cheese
1. Put the potatoes in a colander and sprinkle with about 1/2 teaspoon salt. Set aside to drain for 30 minutes. Heat the oven to 450 degrees; have ready a heavy baking sheet.
2. Put the potatoes in a towel and squeeze dry. Transfer to a mixing bowl and add onion. Toss with oil, pepper, pepper flakes, herbs and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Spread on baking sheet.
3. Bake, stirring several times, until potatoes are tender and brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Sprinkle with cheese and serve at once.
Nutrition information per serving: 195 calories, 4 g fat, 1 mg cholesterol, 440 mg sodium, 37 g carbohydrates, 4 g protein.
