We pedaled beneath the seat of government of the second largest country in the world. No guards or fences obstructed the grand view across the Ottawa River from the base of Parliament Hill in Canada’s capital.
That’s Ottawa: bicycle friendly, people friendly and dollar friendly. Nearly 100 miles of paved or hard-pack bicycle paths weave through this city on the Ontario side of the Ottawa River and it neighbor, Hull, on the Quebec side. Most of the multi-use paths also accommodate skaters. Along those hundred miles lies one of the best kept secrets in North America: an unpretentious, low-key, low-cost capital city with plenty of reasons to keep pedaling.
Although about three-quarters of a million people live in the metropolitan area, the compactness of Ottawa keeps distances short. Few areas within the city limits are more than a leisurely 45-minute bicycle ride from the city center with its shopping, indoor/outdoor market and ornate government buildings.
Bicycling frees you to stay anywhere in the city, such as an outlying motel or a bed-and-breakfast that costs less than those near the center, without worrying about parking. Staying outside the core also provides an excuse for a daily ride along the Rideau Canal, Rideau River or Ottawa River. Well-marked, generally well-paved bike paths line all three and run beneath major cross streets.
Since Ottawa harbors few, if any, dangerous neighborhoods, exploring local side streets poses no hazards, even if you get lost. Bicycling’s biggest worry, broken glass, is absent from the paths and streets. And should your bicycle become a uni-cycle, Ottawa seems to be home to more bicycle shops per capita than any city I’ve ever visited.
To get acquainted with Ottawa, start with a circuit along the Rideau Canal, out one side and back the other. A slightly longer loop, about two hours, follows the canal southwest past Dows Lake to the Hogs Back Bridge and then along the Rideau River to where it flows into the Ottawa River at City Hall. Then it’s a short jog back along Sussex Street to the city center and the canal.
The generally flat terrain keeps the pedaling easy, with gentle slopes on the few hills. The mostly wooded river path undulates for a bumpy ride in places, while the smoother canal path offers good views of the city.
After shaping up, take a half-day tour of the western half of Ottawa. At the locks just south of Dows Lake, turn west. This takes you past the Agricultural Museum and gardens. Ultimately, the path splits; take the northern half to the Ottawa River and back along the river, beneath Parliament Hill to the city center.
Take a final half or full day excursion to Gatineau Park on the Quebec side of the Ottawa River. (Don’t confuse the park with the town of Gatineau that lies to the east.)
A finger of the huge Gatineau Park extends almost to the Ottawa River in Hull. Unless you have robust legs and a sturdy all-terrain bike, you are confined to pedaling the paved paths of this part of the forest.
Finding the start of the Gatineau path is tricky because in the center Hull’s poorly marked bike routes are non-existent. Cross the Alexandre Bridge from Ottawa to the Museum of Civilization and ride along the river beneath the museum until the path vanishes. Then parallel the river until the path begins again at Montcalm and follows the river.
This takes you to the western leg of the Gatineau path, or you can ride up Montcalm and find the eastern leg of the Gatineau path, to get to Fees Lake.
The path takes you straight up the finger of dense, lush woodlands freckled with wild flowers. It cuts across the top of Hull, runs along the Gatineau River, around Leamy Lake and completes the circuit at the Alexandre Bridge. Several spurs and scenic overlooks extend the ride. The path contains about three steep hills that out-of-shape riders may prefer to ascend on foot.
Frankly, Ottawa forced us to cycle because of its ample caloric temptations. Both the canal and river path cross Bank Street near the interesting Glebe neighborhood of unusual shops. Wander through the Glebe Emporium at 724 Bank, a kitchen gadget festival and cook’s fantasy with short order prices. At Fifth Avenue Court, 843 Bank, just up from the path, Grabbajabba drips, steams, and froths some of the best coffee drinks this side of Seattle. Fortunately, Grabbajabba also covers the other end of the canal path at 45A Clarence Street, a block from the Byward Market.
The market resembles a more down-to-earth version of Pike Place in Seattle or Covent Garden in London. It’s surrounded by hip dining and drinking spots.
Since Grabbajabba could only fill us with so many calories from latte and carrot cake we pedaled another block to Oh So Good, 108 Murray Street, a specialty dessert restaurant that posted no less than a score of mousse cakes and cream pies on the menu. We gorged on Rocky Road Mousse cake and Peanut Butter Fudge Buster Mousse cake at $4.20 (all prices here are U.S.) a slice.
Equally tempting, though less filling, is Ottawa’s unofficial civic treat, Beavertails. The stand on the north end of Byward Market sells these deep-fried whole-wheat flat breads, shaped like their namesake, covered with sugar, cinnamon, and/or jams and/or apples, or butter, garlic and cheese. These $2 delights raise your blood sugar and cholesterol in one easy nibble, and one tail even serves two cyclists.
If conscience rather than calories be your guide, Trillium Bakery, a few blocks south of Grabbajabba at Belmont and Bank, bakes dozens of varieties of healthy whole-grain breads and 30 kinds of muffins, including sugar-free and wheat-free muffins.
After our first ride we drew sustenance from the paella at El Meson (94 Beechwood Ave.), which is next door to a bike shop, a good omen. This Iberian restaurant serves a sensational paella, the traditional saffron rice dish made from fish, chicken and seafood, or seafood and lobster for about $14-$17 or vegetarian for about $8. It’s even a better value on the table d’hote dinner with appetizer and dessert. That fueled us for the next 25 miles.
The cycle paths take you past the places other tourists need buses to find. You can’t help seeing the Scottish Gothic architecture of the Houses of Parliament, which are open to the public, the grand old railway hotel Chateau Laurier with its copper roof, and the austere grace of the twin spires of the Cathedral-Basilica of Notre-Dame, begun in 1840.
Across Sussex Street from the cathedral, at the entrance to the Alexandre Bridge, stands the dazzling glass exterior National Gallery of Canada. At the far end of the bridge the curvaceous modern architecture of the Canadian Museum of Civilization beckons.
The museum, designed to symbolize Canadian geology, claims to include the only combination Imax/Omnimax theater, called Cineplus. It is the most attractive, involving museum of history and natural history that I’ve visited.
All four of these monuments are within a 10-minute bicycle ride of each other or a half hour walk.
After we drove the 14-hours from Chicago to Ottawa with bicycles hitched to the back of the car, we learned that American Airlines and Air Canada were beginning non-stop jet air service between the two cities.
Both airlines accept bicycles as baggage, as long as the handlebars are fixed sideways, the pedals removed, and the bike is boxed or bagged. Air Canada charges $17, which includes a bike bag (you’ll need your own box), while American charges $45, plus $15 for a box or $10 for a bag.
As pricey as this may seem, it beats the interminable construction delays and photo-radar speed enforcement on Canada’s 401 Freeway from Windsor to Ottawa.
Better still, rent a bike when you arrive in Ottawa at one of several rental agents. With Canadian gas at just below $2 per gallon, and public transit costing more than the CTA, a bicycle buys a lot of fun in Ottawa.
Ottawa prides itself on disabled access. The recreation paths serve wheelchairs well with ramped curbs throughout the paths and city.
For more information, contact Ottawa Tourism at 800-363-4465. For recreational path maps (a small fee is charged), call 800-465-1867. For information on Gatineau Park, call 819-827-2020.
WHERE TO RENT BIKES
Here are three shops where bikes can be rented (in U.S. dollars):
– Capital Bike ‘N Blade, 5 Hawthorne Ave., Ottawa (613-237-1193). Open daily. Asama 21-speed mountain bikes for about $25 daily; $50-$60 per week. Helmet and lock included.
– Rent-A-Bike–Location Velo, 1 Rideau (behind the Chateau Laurier), Ottawa (613-241-4140). Open daily. Eight models from hybrids through tandems from $20-$28 daily; from $55-$65 weekly. Helmet and lock included.
– Cycle Bertrand, 136 Eddy, Hull (819-771-6858). Closed Sundays. $21 to $26 per day; $60-$75 per week. Helmet included.
