Nestled among the Korean and Middle Eastern stores and restaurants along the busy stretch of Lawrence Avenue near Kedzie, Great Sea Chinese Restaurant stands out for its freshly prepared cuisine in generous portions.
A smart way to begin for a table of four or more might be the ubiquitous combination appetizer platter ($13.95), which comes to the table neatly arranged. Everything on it is fried, but fried well and served steaming hot. Four plump pot stickers hold a delicious pork filling. Two giant egg rolls are sliced in half on the diagonal, exposing a filling of shrimp, ground pork and cabbage seasoned aggressively with five-spice powder for an unusual but somewhat addictive flavor.
Four monster slices of shrimp toast can be a whole meal, the shrimp piled thickly on top and garnished with a large cashew and the whole quickly deep fried to a crisp. Fried shrimp are reminiscent of a tempura-style preparation–light and crispy. Ordinary fried wontons complete the platter. Two sauces join the selection: a pleasing sweet and sour sauce that tastes of apricot and a tangy ginger-soy mixture.
One evening almost every table–all filled with Chinese diners–had ordered a platter of the fried chicken with hot sauce ($7.95), a specialty of the house, with a generous portion of meaty wings prepared so the bone becomes a nifty handle–perfect for dipping them into the puddle of sauce at the bottom of the plate. The sauce is beautifully balanced with salty soy, medium-hot red peppers and a sweet finish.
With a name like Great Sea, seafood was on our minds, but one Wednesday evening the kitchen was out of all of the fish specials–no braised fish, no fish with black bean and hot sauce and no steamed fish.
We settled for sauteed shrimp with vegetables ($9.95) and were not disappointed. The shrimp are sweet and very fresh-flavored and swim among crunchy, bright vegetables such as bok choy, carrots, snow peas and baby corn in a medium thick sauce.
More economical choices on the menu include a choice of “mushu” dishes–six chunky fillings wrapped up in Peking pancakes ($7.95 to $8.95). Noodles, too, are a speciality, with a selection of 17 varieties ($4.95 to $6.95).
Lunch specials are true bargains, ranging from $4.50 to $5.95.
Desserts are limited to iced lychees ($3.50), or glazed apples, bananas or sweet potatoes ($5.95 each). A full bar hides in the back of the simple dining room. Efficient waitresses explain the specialities willingly, guiding diners to the popular dishes, and they bring forth food quickly–almost too quickly.
But we’ll be back to try Great Sea again and hope by that time, the fresh fish will have been hooked.
Great Sea Chinese Restaurant
(two forks)
3254 W. Lawrence Ave., Chicago 312-478-9129
11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily
Wheelchair accessible
Credit cards: M, V
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RATINGS KEY: 4 forks: Top of the class 3 forks: Better than most 2 forks: Very good fare 1 fork: Middle of the road
